Had a motor swapped on drivers window under warranty a couple of months ago.Now in the last week or so the driver and driver passenger are plying up. Driver goes up in increments while rear one stops and won't move.
This happened last week and tried all things suggested including handbook.
As a last resort I disconnected the battery as suggested here and shorted out and left for 20 minutes.
This worked and all windows worked perfectly, but today its playing up again rear window won't budge and driver goes up\down 3inches at a time!
Used warranty has now elapsed!
Any other suggestions folks?

Martin, on the one that goes up in increments you could try this procedure.


This is not the standard reset that is in the book, but this normally solves it.

When the window starts going down press the DOWN button till the window stops/reaches the bottom then hold the UP button until the window gets to the top.

Repeat, three times (open and close the window, fully, three times).

As I hold the button the window only moves 3inches or so and stops. It takes 4 or 5 attempts to close?
The rear window is the one which had the motor replaced under warranty!
Driving me potty!
Cheers

And now the rear drivers side door won't unlock!
Tried hard reset no change?
I give up!

Could be the motor on the door lock, usually it fails to lock rather than unlock, nine times out of ten it's the offside rear that seems to fail first.

Are the window not moving and door not unlocking related?
Thanks for your help

Rear door now will not lock😧

Last edited by martindoggy on 2nd Jun 2014 9:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Bad earth on rear door?

Damaged wires where they pass through from the B pillar into the door?

Seems more than a coincidence for both electrical items in the door to stop working at same time. 2010 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Santorini Black / Ebony Leather

Seems odd to me too
Got it booked in later this week hope it get sorted,not enjoying not being able to lock the door up!
Cheers

Hi,

My freelander drivers window is now behaving the same way. Raising and lowering in 2 inch increments. Do you get to the bottom of the issue when the car went into the garage? Thanks in advance!

Changed the control unit on the drivers door, but very very rarely still happens

Was it a big job (expensive?). Seems strange that it still happens even with a new controller.

DDM is around £55 and needs programmed to the car. Fitting takes 5 mins, programming takes few minutes but I'm sure they will hit you for couple of hours labour and make it sound a big job. 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Forgot to add that when programming a door module on JLR system, it has a pop up message advising that door modules should be changed in pairs (by side). So they will double your bill  2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

If the window keeps cutting out when going up in increments it could be the mechanism is stiff or the window in its guides is not as free as it ought to be because of muck etc and that causes the safety cut out to operate as it thinks theres an obstruction in the way??