I have just wired a single electric socket and fitted a Witter Towbar for £153.26 - a big saving on earlier quotes.

I am posting the wiring details for others wishing to use them.

They are slightly different than instructions posted by another member but they are from an experienced supplier/fitter and I can confirm they work.

I found there are duplicate coloured wires so make sure you use a probe before connecting cables.

Click image to enlarge

Hi,
I am going along the same route at the moment,need a tow bar for a bike rack.
Did you find a power supply for the bypass relay?,does it interfere with the pdc at all?
Did you find a place to run the cable inside?
Regards
Peter.

Welcome to the forum

I had to duble take the forum name there for a second i thought it said "Fred West"  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

free westie wrote:

Hi,
I am going along the same route at the moment,need a tow bar for a bike rack.
Did you find a power supply for the bypass relay?,does it interfere with the pdc at all?
Did you find a place to run the cable inside?
Regards
Peter.

Welcome to the forum

I used the large red cable of the grey trailer wiring connector block (L/H side) for the bypass relay feed and put 15A fuse in F9 of the fuse box in spare wheel well.

The pdc, towbar and electrics without trailer work as normal but if you hook up a trailer they beep continuosly when reverse selected - the LR wiring kit would solve this but at £150 + £80 software update without fitting I can live with the beep! There is a connector on the relay to disconnect pdc when towing but not worked out where to connect to yet.

The cable comes up L/H side in boot and is hidden behind plastic trim of boot.

Hope this helps

Hi,
Thanks for the reply,Is there a convient gromit to run the cable from outside to inside?
Those wiring colours are for the n/s l/h light?
Regards,
Peter.

free westie wrote:

Hi,
Thanks for the reply,Is there a convient gromit to run the cable from outside to inside?
Those wiring colours are for the n/s l/h light?
Regards,
Peter.

Hi,
Pics would be great.

Hi,
Sorry forgot to mention is there a bumper cut req for this tow bar?

No bumper cuts with Witter Flange Towbar - that is the reason I went for it - I did not want to cut bumper.

I will try and take pics later - bear with me

Here are the pics as requested.

Location of Fuse Box, Grey Connector and Gromit

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muddywheels wrote:

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The one thing i would worry about is if you plan to have fun in the mud in the car the electrics are a little exposed were as on my LR fix towbar there more tucked away front the end of the bar then occassionally dragged in the mud

Click image to enlarge

 Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

npinks wrote:

The one thing i would worry about is if you plan to have fun in the mud in the car the electrics are a little exposed were as on my LR fix towbar there more tucked away front the end of the bar then occassionally dragged in the mud

I considered this point exactly for a long time before going for this set up - in the end I figured the cost saving outweighed risk of damage to socket i.e, if I damage socket only £4 for a new one but saved £230 on LR wiring system in addition to saving on LR Towbar

I suppose the £8 can be lived with

I was think on the lines of if it damaged whilst "playing" could it short something out and cause more damage that way.

Though by the looks of it with a couple of mins with a socket set you could remove the electrical parts too

I'm pondering on removing the towbar part next time as it looks to be held on by two bolts, but then i won't know what torque to tighten it back up to.

 Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

npinks wrote:

I suppose the £8 can be lived with

I was think on the lines of if it damaged whilst "playing" could it short something out and cause more damage that way.

Though by the looks of it with a couple of mins with a socket set you could remove the electrical parts too

I'm pondering on removing the towbar part next time as it looks to be held on by two bolts, but then i won't know what torque to tighten it back up to.

Removing your attachment is a good idea.

I have hidden the cable in the hope I will avoid catching it and as you say I could undo the socket and remove it.

I wanted a swan neck so I could unbolt it for off road use but they needed the bumper cutting so I scrapped that plan.

I borrowed a Torque wrench this time - in the past I guessed tightness.

I was shocked how tight they need to be and a bit worried for the owner of my last car

There are a lot of cables under the mat - where the spare wheel is stored. I allways wanted to put some extra parts that I carry arrund all the time (ie the wheel bolt safety a liter of engine oil antyfreeze aso) there or is there a risk of damaging the cabes or even worse? FREELANDER 2 TD4 SE (XS UK) IZMIR BLUE SIDE STEPS COLD PACK BI-XENON TINTED WINDOWS - AND PROUD OF HER