What you reckon to put this right?

[/img] 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

That'll polish out.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Looks like a massive hit probably beyond economical repair

Agree with garfield - almost certainly a write off.  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Yes it's been classed as a D cat by insurance, trying to figure out how much to put back on road if I buy off insurance 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

what the hell hit you

A country bumpkin in his horseless plough! 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Depends how much they are wanting for it, take it it's the 07 plate as in your signature at the bottom of your page, have a look what they are going for on various sites then see what you think.

Other option is if it's cheap enough buy it back and split it for bits, disco dunc did it on the D3 forum and managed to clear quite a few bits.

Looking at it don't think you will get much change out of 2-3k especially if diff and everything needs replacing

Good luck

Not updated sig, it a 10 plate with under 30k if I was sure 2-3k would do it - I would be tempted 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Just had a look on the bay and you can pick a rear bumper up for £250+vat same for tailgate! but it's the diff, Haldex unit and all other drive parts that would have to be changed, then the light and new allow plus tyre. Mmm might have been a bit optimistic, but like I said how much do they want for it and could you make money out of the spare..

I would be checking the door shuts on both l/h doors. Also the fit of the tailgate. Almost certainly with a hit that hard there will be some unseen damage further into the body. The words "10 foot" and "bargepole" come to mind. Take your insurance money and walk away. It will never be the same again! 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

^^ Wot he said ^^

Stop messing with him - it's only a light tap


Seriously though, one of my rear wheels was moved less than 10mm and the insurance company tried to write it off. Fortuantely I'm handy with the spanners, and was once-upon-atime a coded welder, it still took me many hours to get her back something like. I spent over £2k in parts and the diff/ drive shaft didn't need changing.

Unless you are emotionally attached, or they don't offer to cover all your costs, It might be better to walk away.

How can you be sure that the diff that might fail in 2 years time is not related to the accident, or the faulty fuel gauge, of the increased tyre wear, or that annoying rattle etc. I'm sure his insurance company will deny all responsibility. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Might I suggest that you are all missing those magical words
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Catagory D
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I've over 40 years of privately buying, repairing, using and then selling write of cars.
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Since the insurers started putting catagory markers on damaged cars it has resulted in joe public and dealers doing HPi checks and refusing to buy ex-damaged cars so their market value once repaired is dramatically low.
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Unless you intend keeping the car for a long number of years then please walk away from it.
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With regard to the start of the thread there are two other options.
One is insist on the repairs being done, (not cat marked), or two get a professional body shop with a sound Jig man to do the major body job.
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The repair wouldn't frighten me at all . For any initial assessment ignore the obvious and look at the opposite diagonal, ie does the drivers door fit properly? A look beyond the obvious will show if the body has helically twisted.
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Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva