Car has been running fine no problems for past year 2008 HSE auto, 80k miles, then the other day driving along and engine cut out when cold about 3 mins from start up for a few seconds but restarted without pulling over and run fine, just like an engine blip so to speak, all ok for past week then today driving along engine warm about 3 miles into journey and engine just cut out no power steering nothing (big panic as on main road) didn't have time to look at dash but got over to curb side rolling. turned off at start button and pulled key out of dash, re inserted and engine cranked but no start, warning on display said reduced power. did this 3 times and on 3rd attempt, no warning on dash and engine started and now runs fine. anyone got any clues as I'm not feeling very confident driving anywhere at moment its a bit dangerous when total engine cut occurs...

Get the fault codes read - many things could cause this, including blocked fuel filter and faulty engine sensors. The fault codes should hopefully help narrow it down.

down to the dealer then...I have a new spare fuel fillter, but no sure on how you prime the fuel when changing it

Ok here we go there were a few faults P0335.00 cranck sensor/ p1259.84 Imobilizer/ p1402.00 EGR valve / P0336.00 crank sensor and strange but B10A2.00 crash sensor. We cleared DTC and ran car again all disapeared exept 1 B10A2.00 the crash sensor at 100% ?? these others Im told may have been poduced by a dead battery at start up a few weeks ago when the dash went a little mad at start button press, this was cured with new Batt and car started fine and run fine for a few days. Batt Voltage at 14.5 when running and cold start at 12.5V...Now Having looked up this code it sates on LAnd rover TOPIx this DTC is caused by low voltage (below 7v) and the car will not start, cure is fit new bat, clear crash status and car will run.
All good untill you get to my problem..the car was running ok, it just stopped all of a sudden and restarted at 3rd attempt and has run ever since but DTC is still there, not done reset only cleared DTC there may be a differance when it comes to crash dtc records, I will try and reset the crash status and see what happens next...If it cuts out again and I hope not, I will see whats DTC are recorded and as there is now a new batt fitted I may have removed old DTC, anyone else seen this before ??

It looks as though there's a LR technical bulletin which may be relevant - unfortunately I don't have a TopiX subscription so I can't see the actual bulletin, but hopefully someone will be along shortly who can:
LTB00289v2 - Vehicle Will Not Start Crash Status Flagged

Alternatively, a faulty crash sensor might possibly cause the ECU to shut down the engine believing there's been a crash?

Has the car ever been in a crash? I say this because the code you are getting is a permanent historical code. The average cheap code reader will not be able to clear this code completely as you have to go into "special actions". I have done this on my Autel Maxidas gear but like I say, a small hand scanner will not clear it. The fault code will not stop the car starting. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Car has had no crash as far as I know and I can see no damage repar any where, however this dtc would be recorded even if slow shunt and just bumper damage/change, has to be over a certain speed and force to deploy air bags, but you never know these days, car history is checked HPI clear etc so will never know i guess and the chap i bought it off aint going to say yes as hes a dealer !! I have access to topix and the fault code and problem are on there but defined as (car will not start crash sensor fault) and is put down to a duff battery below 7v. Thats all it says,fit new batt and refig crash dtc job done, however my batt is new and 12.7v when cold so all good and my car cut out when I was driving which i would have put down to a sensor or fuel flow...i

topix ssm32884 non start DTC B10A2.## is the crash staus fault DTC which I had, This due to battery voltage below 7v at cold crank, this volatge also created the other DTC which have all been cleared and new batt fitted. Well here we go some 2 weeks latter and no probs till today on way to work and engine stopped for the second time, I rolled over to kirb and key off and key on and it started no probs, drove to work ok, on both occasions this stall happend at cold, I have fitted a new fuel fillter as well, anyway We put car on lap top again and DTC P0335 stored 'crank sensor'...so this looks to be the problem, called LR dealer and £56 for new replcement but there service department said they had never changed one so I'm going for the on ramp run engine and wiggle of plug approach, loose wire and maybe a clean up around area and see how it goes...Anyone ever had this problem before who can advise??

If you do a search for crank sensor you'll get a number of relevant threads, which include posts from people who have had crack sensors replaced due to problems similar to those you're having.

Too much to go wrong on modern cars!

hi have you read post about extra earth strap from battery to starter?seems a lot of people have had probs with electrics due to this and when they have fitted extra earth strap it has cured all sorts of electrical problems especialy on automatics,

^^^ Good point. It's something I'm going to do 'when I get round to it'. By which time it will probably be too late, of course...

I have had people say Earth problem, I will give it a go got nothing to loose, I checked the sensor today and all looked clean and good but that dont mean nothing i suppose any how give it a bit of elec cleaner and refitted cleared DTC and will see how it goes..will fit an extra earth asap !!

Just as a matter of interest and worth a mention I have K&N air filter fitted I know its not related to DTC but anyone heard if these cause any issue with Free2

If you go down the route of crank angle sensor replacement then do be aware that there are at least two types and that they are not interchangable either with the harness plug or a match for the reluctor ring. I've been through these problems after an engine swap. I had to fit the sensor AND the reluctor ring from the old engine to the new. There are other reports on this forum where it was the reluctor ring at fault and not the sensor.
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The reluctor ring is a plastic disc behind the 'front' crank pulley; it has multiple magnets set in a circle with a gap of one missing, the 'dead' zone indicates to the ECU where top dead centre is.
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Hope this helps, kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Last edited by fredastaire on 14th Jan 2014 2:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks all, can only find one part number Fred on JLR system for my 08 model year sensor is LR021649 £51, not sure on Reluct ring at mo, so far I have cleaned sensor and fitted extra earth lead from Batt neg to Eng... will see how it goes