Quote:

I use the 5A CTEC charger with no problems, on a flat battery it may take a little longer to fully charge it but for topping up and general maintenance no probs.

Richard

Quote:

Dave, went for the bigger one as I also use it for the caravan battery, and at the time of buying, there wasn't much difference in the price. Yep, would agree totally with Richard in his comment above but I think the last time I bought a charger was over 30 years ago so if this lasts the same time, I'm happy

Thanks Richard and Andy, In the end I went the other way and thought there isn't much price difference between the 7amp and the 10amp CTEK, so ordered the CTEK MSX 10a and the cigar lighter plug lead for in car charging
I do have three leisure batteries to look after as well as the car

MartynB wrote:

I've just ordered the same battery (85/800) as the one in John's picture. £78 delivered from Eurocarparts*, the original battery is only two and a half years old but I want a bigger one. The one that is in the car will be kept charged up in my workshop as a general spare. I checked the OE battery and it is badged Land Rover but it is the standard 80/700 Exide.

*They have a 15% off coupon offer for internet orders if anyone is in the market for a battery

Just ordered the same one too, much better cold cranking performance than the standard and mine is now 5 years old and has the original battery still which will now become a charged up spare in the garage, good price with the 15% discount and free delivery=£78!

Although mine had not failed i am planning on keeping the car for 3 years then upgrading to a Range rover or Disco so thought i was best to change it now and have the benefit whilst i own the vehicle

Cheers for the info JST and MartynB  Black FL2
L200 Warrior

WarriorBez wrote:

s7gpt wrote:

2007 pushing 60k and still on original battery, tested 2 days ago with volt meter and fine

a volt meter will not give you a proper test though

I've seen a few threads suggesting the FL2 will warn on low battery levels. If that's the case, I'd think about replacement when you get the warnings.

As I posted in another thread today:


About 14.2 should be the optimum charging voltage.

12.5 is waaay too low.

My usual approach to take battery voltage across the terminals at 4 separate occasions.

1) After standing, should be about 13.2V or greater.
2) During engine cranking, should be > 10V
3) When charging, should be 14.2V up to about 14.5 at higher revs
4) After engine cut off, should be about 13.8 and not visibly dropping.

If anything in the car is running during 1 or 4, including computers, the readings will be a bit lower.

If charging voltage is less than 14V it will never recharge properly so there is an alternator/wiring fault.

If cranking volrage is < 10V the battery is Censored , go and buy a new one.

If it drops rapidly after the engine switches off below about 13.5, the battery is Censored , go and buy a new one.

If it reads below 13V after a short standing time, the battery is Censored or something is draining it.

emetoolite wrote:

WarriorBez wrote:

s7gpt wrote:

2007 pushing 60k and still on original battery, tested 2 days ago with volt meter and fine

a volt meter will not give you a proper test though

Pls what would?

The ONLY WAY to check a battery properly is by testing each individual cell.
all the rest is double talk and Cr*p
You will need a Battery Hydrometer , and the ability to check each cell...!
not always available on modern batteries
used to be working in a marine environment, where EVERYTHING had to be assessable and changeable or at least tested in situ

useful link if you disregard the sales talk ...!!




 Wales
Were the mud is thicker, and the ruts are deeper.
(And we have the water to wash it off, and more on the way..! )
Sd4 and chrome Ar*e piece, Auto box for best fun
09 Xs Gone
12 xs Gone
HSE with Leather seats and 4 years warrenty.. staying for now !

What about the so called DRY CELL batteries? How do one obtain measurements

There's not many batteries that can be checked with a hydrometer these days. Best tool to use although not many DIY'ers will have one is a drop tester (high rate discharge tester). Here' same cheap one: http://www.drapertools.com/b2c/b2citmdsp.p...amp;ipadd=
Failing that, go to any fast fit type centre and with the prospect of selling you a new battery, I'm sure they'll test yours for free.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

"1) After standing, should be about 13.2V or greater. 12.6
2) During engine cranking, should be > 10V worn starter could cause a lower reading or even a poor earth
3) When charging, should be 14.2V up to about 14.5 at higher revs anything from 13.8 to 15v
4) After engine cut off, should be about 13.8 and not visibly dropping. " 12.6 nominal votage

The readings you have posted would condem most peoples batteries !
mine used to drop to 7.5 volts at cranking but nothing wrong with the battery just carp wiring !

Heavy discharge tester is the only was to test a battery and only after a long and proper charge ! Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

emetoolite wrote:

What about the so called DRY CELL batteries? How do one obtain measurements

Quote:

I've seen a few threads suggesting the FL2 will warn on low battery levels. If that's the case, I'd think about replacement when you get the warnings.