Hi guys, a small question for the knowledgeable chaps on here.

I'm carrying out an oil change on my 2008 FL2. I removed the old oil filter and snapped the new one into position. I noticed after doing this that the filter has about maybe 5mm of float within the housing. Does this sound right, or have I misplaced a spacer or washer?

Many thanks for any help offered.

Jon.

Jon

Does this help?

http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/C12578E80..._2D_EN.pdf

Link issue!!!

Try this

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...X3392D.pdf

This is the type of filter that you have. Paul Redding
+44 (0)23 8052 2760
Order Parts Online at www.advancedfactors.co.uk

Thanks Steve. That is the housing - and the article relates to the filter I have too!

The spring on the return valve seems to be working perfectly and I've had the filter off and checked that it is going to compress the spring when fully screwed in. By my calculations, the spring should compress about 15-20mm when tightened.

Are these Mahle filters ok, or is it better to go for a genuine one?

Many thanks.

Jon.

Mahle (Austrian company- don't like to be called German!) are an OEM supplier to Land Rover, have been since the BMW tie up. Wix (USA although our product in Europe mostly comes out of Poland) also strongly feature since the Ford influence.

If you buy any Land Rover filter it will have a country of origin on the box, it will point to one of these two companies.

Long way of saying yes - good filters  Paul Redding
+44 (0)23 8052 2760
Order Parts Online at www.advancedfactors.co.uk

Thanks Steve. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

Jon.

Have you ever tried to change the filter with the front of the car still attached?
Quote
"MAHLE recommends to
check the valve’s freedom of movement before each
oil filter change—the simplest way is to do so by hand,......"

Having just done an oil change this weekend I was thinking of volunteering our local LR technicians for a medal - or an OBE at least. what should be a 15minute job is a nightmare even with the 27mm short floppy headed rachet ring spanner, try it with a normal full length ring spanner for those into serious masochistic tendencies.

how on earth you are supposed to check the valve is beyond me, I tried stripping out the fuel filter and hosing to drill down but gave up after 90 minutes and lied on my back on the rain soaked road and did it again by feel. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Manual says to do it from below after removing the engine undershield (6 bolts). Pics suggest access is OK with the shield off, but whether it actually is...

Manuals, manuals, when did real men start reading manuals

Whats wrong with a bl**dy big hammer and a short temper?

And yes attack from underneath, after removing the sump guard (heavy) and the bit of tin supplied by LR.
Still done mainly by feel, but I suspect easier on a four poster lift rather than lying on your back in the street with the car up on 4 axle stands.

The good news was the front pads were fine, the rear shoes were fine but the discs were shot (10.1mm left, LR minimum is 10mm), so the rear pads, shoes, adjusters, and pads were all changed - not bad for 99k miles. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Quote:

Manuals, manuals, when did real men start reading manuals

When they wanted to avoid wasting 90 minutes attacking it from the wrong end...

Quote:

Whats wrong with a bl**dy big hammer and a short temper?

Quote:

Modern cars weren't built with ease of maintenance in mind.

I agree absolutely, but nonetheless it's true. Look what's involved in replacing an FL2 clutch, for example. And there's an article in LRM this month about changing the turbo on a D3 which suggests that this is often best done by removing the body! Fortunately it seems D3 turbos are pretty reliable, unlike FL2 clutches.