alex_pescaru wrote:

No problem with the questions:
1. Yes, I, for one, I intend to do it at 60.000 kms.
2. When separating, you'll loose only Haldex oil. The diff oil is past a seal.
3. Enough oil will remain hidden. So best Haldex out, wash with strong alcohol (no thinner as it could damage the seals) and air blow it...
4. There isn't necessary if you are careful. But, for a few bucks, better buy it.
5. After install it on the car, as it is a procedure for filling it with oil which implies an ignition on/off stage.

You can use this mail for further questions: autopiese@gmail.com Name of the person: Virgil.
Is the mail of the guy that made the film on youtube. It's from Chisinau, Moldova. You can write him in English, Romanian or Russian.

Hello Alex, I have the next series of questions ready.....
1. To wash it out with alcohol I would have to completely dismantle the unit, just like in the video, right? I'm a little concerned that I might not be able to put it all back together in the same order.
2. Do you think inverting the unit several times and "guiding" the oil towards an opening would allow me to remove most of it without actually taking haldex to bits?
3. Could you please point out the approximate location of the fill hole on the photo? Your last drawing was absolutly magical for my understanding of what has to happen.
4. Do I need a torque wrench to correctly secure the unit back up?
5. Should I disconnect the battery prior to unpluging electronics on the unit?
6. Once the oil is changed does the computer need to know about it?
7. Appart from the O-Ring do you think there is any kind of other gasket material there between Haldex and the Diff?
8. And finally; Do you think it would be practical to drain the oil (without removing haldex) by removing the pump as it appears to be located at the lowest point on the unit?

Thanks again for your assistance and the contact details, Alex. I'll keep the forum updated of my progress. MY10 TD4 SE Auto

If you are a little afraid of the work involved and what may happen (I, for one, I am a little, but hey, it's a man's creation) then think like this: a simple oil change is better than no change. So you can only remove the pump and filter and leave the haldex in place.
But be aware that the pump and maybe the filter will not come out completely as they will hit the driveshaft connecting flange when trying to take them out of their socket. So you may as well need to remove the flange before taking out the pump and old filter.
Remember to clean thoroughly the pump mesh filter. Then put back the new filter and the pump and fill the haldex with the new oil.
And now the questions:
1. Yes. There are not so many parts...
2. You will remove most of the oil, but inside will remain dirty. But an engine inside remains the same when you change the oil...
3.

4. No, just good sense. But for your piece of mind here:

5. Yes.
6. I didn't see one.
7. Yes, see above.

Update;
Today I picked up the O-Ring LR002888 and Filter LR032298. While discussing the project with the techie I learned that there's a "Haldex kit", and it just happen to be in stock on the day. So I bought that too (see pic bellow).

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Alex, just a couple more questions, if I may, please.

1. Does the drive shaft only needs to be disconnected at the Haldex end? It looked as though if it's not completely removed it might still be in the way/prevent Haldex from sliding out.
2. 100% spirt is not available. But hardware stores sell Methylated spirits which contain 95% ethanol (see bellow). Could I use that to clean the unit inside?



23:14 Edit
Just learned that a special tool might be required for removal of the "flange" (in order to remove the pump for inspection and cleaning). Do you know if it's essential and if there's an LR number for it?

http://www.spxtools-shop.com/jlr/product_info.php?info=p445.html MY10 TD4 SE Auto

I've looked at the Haldex u tube video. Is any member clever enough to make a translation script for us?
Secondly does anybody know what cleaning fluid the guy is using in the washing up bowl? Is it parrafin or petrol or somthing else ?
Kind regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

fredastaire wrote:

I've looked at the Haldex u tube video. Is any member clever enough to make a translation script for us?
Secondly does anybody know what cleaning fluid the guy is using in the washing up bowl? Is it parrafin or petrol or somthing else ?
Kind regards from Fred

I've spent half a day going through the Russian Freelander 2 forum looking for useful bits of info. Here's what I have so far;
1. Haldex is fairly hard to kill.
2. Most of the time it's either the pump or the circuit board that fails
3. Pump fails most often due to clogged filter that attaches to the pump (not the other one). Though the other one is also important.
4. The computer picks up on the fact that oil pressure is low, signals the pump to put more effort into it, pump attempts to comply and overheats.
5. In some cases while pump is drawing all this current in at attemp to comply, the logic board fails due to excessive current flow.
6. they had some electronics gurus workout that absolute maximum that the unit can draw is about 3.5A. Yet the fuse (refer to your manual) is rated 15A
7. So, a good test to see if problems are around the corner would be to swap the 15A fuse for a 5A. I did that today. To see if the unit is working within acceptable range. They recon that even in winter, with extra work, haldex doesn't need more than 3.5A.
8. To replace a pump is cheaper than to replace the circuit/logic board. Fuse is even cheaper.
9. On volvos they tried 7.5A fuses but that didn't save the circuit board.

More to come MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Many thanks from myself and I guess other members for the super translations and done so fast!
Any ideas on the cleaning fluid!
Kind regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

When I've saw the operation done, that car had the whole underbody accessible - no exhaust, no driveshaft - as it had to be fixed for other issues too. So the Haldex was easily accessible for extraction.

For the cleaning fluid... Any fluid that don't affect o-ring rubbers and dissolves and cleans the oil. So, any good alcohol will do.

And yes, you'll need that tool, or any home made one for removing the flange's nut. And an extractor for removing the flange from the shaft.

So... Reading between the lines, the Haldex is a multiplate clutch operated by an electronically controlled 12 volt pump.
The more the Haldex has to actually operate, friction material is worn away and the debris flows in the oil till caught in one of two filters. Once clogged it may result in pump failure and/ or PCB failure.
The separate filter is already identified with a part number (Volvo). Are both filters washable with suitable solvent?
Can both filters be reached without Haldex removal?
If so should they be removed and cleaned say every 12,000 miles and a decision made on visual inspection as to whether to remove Haldex for a clean out and fresh lube?
Kind regards from Fred

From what I've saw neither filter can be easily took out without Haldex removal.
The main filter because it's in inaccessible position on the upper part when the Haldex is on the car and the pump filter because the pump can't be taken out without removing the drive flange.

The pump filter is washable, but the other one better be replaced.

This is a very useful thread. My car goes in tomorrow to have a new filter fitted (£460) and if problem not cured then it will require a new pump (£320).
My symptoms are a howling or gurgling sound when the vehicle is about to or just has changed up or down from 1st to 2nd and back again.
I will let you know the outcome Ralph
Zurmatt Silver, Diesel, Automatic, side steps, mud flaps, mats, boot liner, TomTom Start 60 installed, rubbing strips, removable Brink tow bar, after market tinted glass, front styling bar, Rear spoiler, Motorlicious tail pipe trim. Wood Company centre armrest

I called LR spare parts today to see if I could purchase a flange holding and a flange removal "special" tools. They told me that they don't sell "special" tools to customers

So I went home and made one. I took me about 30min. It's a bit crude, but I think it might work. Please note that the holes are off centre and sligtly oversize to allow for easier placing.

Does anyone know how I can make a flange removal tool?

Click image to enlarge

You can use a tie rod remover/extractor like the ones below:

Click image to enlarge

I hate to be in any way negative but if your tool has been made from aluminium as it looks like in the picture it will probably not withstand the torque required to undo the flange nut - in my experience this is quite tight. My usual trick is to use the bolts in place in the flange and a steel bar between then to hold the flange from turning - so no special tools are needed.