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impact Member Since: 11 Mar 2011 Location: Perth Posts: 139 |
Hello Alex, I have the next series of questions ready..... 1. To wash it out with alcohol I would have to completely dismantle the unit, just like in the video, right? I'm a little concerned that I might not be able to put it all back together in the same order. 2. Do you think inverting the unit several times and "guiding" the oil towards an opening would allow me to remove most of it without actually taking haldex to bits? 3. Could you please point out the approximate location of the fill hole on the photo? Your last drawing was absolutly magical for my understanding of what has to happen. 4. Do I need a torque wrench to correctly secure the unit back up? 5. Should I disconnect the battery prior to unpluging electronics on the unit? 6. Once the oil is changed does the computer need to know about it? 7. Appart from the O-Ring do you think there is any kind of other gasket material there between Haldex and the Diff? 8. And finally; Do you think it would be practical to drain the oil (without removing haldex) by removing the pump as it appears to be located at the lowest point on the unit? Thanks again for your assistance and the contact details, Alex. I'll keep the forum updated of my progress. MY10 TD4 SE Auto |
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9th Aug 2013 9:58 am |
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impact Member Since: 11 Mar 2011 Location: Perth Posts: 139 |
Update;
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10th Aug 2013 8:41 am |
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impact Member Since: 11 Mar 2011 Location: Perth Posts: 139 |
Alex, just a couple more questions, if I may, please.
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10th Aug 2013 9:02 am |
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fredastaire Member Since: 03 Dec 2012 Location: Holbrook Posts: 721 |
I've looked at the Haldex u tube video. Is any member clever enough to make a translation script for us?
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11th Aug 2013 2:35 pm |
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impact Member Since: 11 Mar 2011 Location: Perth Posts: 139 |
The captions say: "This is haldex 4th generation", "Condition prior to repair", "Getting parts ready", "Body of the unit has many hidden cavities", "everything needs to be thoroughly washed and dried with compressed air", "the bearing must not fall into the body of the unit, it must be a tight fit", "viscous remnants and other dirt are unacceptable", "thorough visual exam of the parts", "the support bearing must be in working order", "very carefully examine friction plate block", "possible faults include: 1. wear of friction plates 2. overheating of metal discs 3.cracks 4.missing cog teeth", "parts before assembly", "assembled unit", "Delivery to any country". MY10 TD4 SE Auto |
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11th Aug 2013 3:15 pm |
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impact Member Since: 11 Mar 2011 Location: Perth Posts: 139 |
I've spent half a day going through the Russian Freelander 2 forum looking for useful bits of info. Here's what I have so far;
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11th Aug 2013 3:41 pm |
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fredastaire Member Since: 03 Dec 2012 Location: Holbrook Posts: 721 |
Many thanks from myself and I guess other members for the super translations and done so fast!
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11th Aug 2013 3:42 pm |
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alex_pescaru Member Since: 12 Mar 2009 Location: RO Posts: 4642 |
When I've saw the operation done, that car had the whole underbody accessible - no exhaust, no driveshaft - as it had to be fixed for other issues too. So the Haldex was easily accessible for extraction.
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11th Aug 2013 3:49 pm |
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fredastaire Member Since: 03 Dec 2012 Location: Holbrook Posts: 721 |
So... Reading between the lines, the Haldex is a multiplate clutch operated by an electronically controlled 12 volt pump.
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11th Aug 2013 4:01 pm |
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alex_pescaru Member Since: 12 Mar 2009 Location: RO Posts: 4642 |
From what I've saw neither filter can be easily took out without Haldex removal.
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11th Aug 2013 5:06 pm |
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Ralphk Member Since: 03 Apr 2009 Location: Skulking around with me golf clubs Posts: 476 |
This is a very useful thread. My car goes in tomorrow to have a new filter fitted (£460) and if problem not cured then it will require a new pump (£320).
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11th Aug 2013 10:58 pm |
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impact Member Since: 11 Mar 2011 Location: Perth Posts: 139 |
I called LR spare parts today to see if I could purchase a flange holding and a flange removal "special" tools. They told me that they don't sell "special" tools to customers
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12th Aug 2013 10:32 am |
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alex_pescaru Member Since: 12 Mar 2009 Location: RO Posts: 4642 |
You can use a tie rod remover/extractor like the ones below:
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12th Aug 2013 1:27 pm |
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dpcwright Member Since: 04 Feb 2011 Location: Cambridge Posts: 70 |
I hate to be in any way negative but if your tool has been made from aluminium as it looks like in the picture it will probably not withstand the torque required to undo the flange nut - in my experience this is quite tight. My usual trick is to use the bolts in place in the flange and a steel bar between then to hold the flange from turning - so no special tools are needed. |
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13th Aug 2013 8:29 am |
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