Great article, 30 mins or so with you're help. Many thanks

I did this to eliminate a problem I have with the central locking, it repeatidly locks and unlocks itself while running or stationary, but not when locked!? Searched on here but to no avail
Any ideas?

Many thanks to all the Forum Intelligentsia who went to the trouble of finding this fix for sorting the tailgate relase catch. Funny - when I first opened the boot on a showroom display Freelander2 I thought hmmm, that boot release catch is a bit shoddy, is that the best they could come up with? Clearly the LR penny pinchers department thought it would be fine.
Anyway, for those who have not got around to fixing it diy style, a Landy Maindealer will cheerfully relieve you of £73.82 plus Vat to replace it.
Robin

Just replaced my tailgate switch - SWMBO now very happy as can open door OK now. Many thanks for instructions and photos which were very helpful. Also part number very useful as I order on line from a LR specialist.

Thanks to the forum for this excellent thread.

I tried to clean the switch at first but was doused with quantities of milky-coloured water and the components fell to the ground in bits. This pretty much meant I had to go for the "new switch" option.

I got the new switch yesterday and fitted it in about 40 minutes, hindered slightly by a failed bolt on the handle. Nevertheless, everything went together and the problem is solved.

My tailgate switch has given up the ghost today
New switch on order and many thanks to those on this forum who have contributed towards the fix  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

I think mine's on the way. It works perfectly if the temperature is above freezing, but stops working if the temperature goes much below that. Still, at least it's an easy fix.

did mine yesterday bought a new switch from duckworths £25 and fitted it in about 30 mins easy peasy When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car

Same as all the other comments, did mine today 30 mins thanks to the heads up from this thread, thanks. 2009 FL2 GS
1985 90Tdi

Doh!
Haven't been driving the FL in a while as its been the good lady's winter car but she has got a new car now so I get my hands back on the FL2 - still love it.

But.........
Apparently from the good info on this thread I need to replace the tailgate switch - no problem.
However it would seem my FL has passed through the popping open when unlocking the doors phase and through the only open on the key fob stage and now it is shut and wants to stay that way.....won't open with the fob or direct on the handle.

Can I go into the boot or anywhere else and get it released so I can fit a new switch or do I have to throw it into a dealer?

Many thanks for any advice. Of course I will keep the mods subtle - don't I always!!

Posted this question on Pistonheads and was directed back to this thread!!

So any ideas guys? Of course I will keep the mods subtle - don't I always!!

Got it !
Fuse 25 looked fine but by changing it I've managed to pop the tailgate from the fob.
Off to try the stealers for a switch. Of course I will keep the mods subtle - don't I always!!

You can usually tell if the fuse has gone because it also covers the fuel filler flap...

Thanks for all the tips here. My 56 plate tailgate switch packed in this winter when the water in it froze. First day it's been warm enough to repair it on the street. It took me about 45mins to strip it down clean it, grease it, reinstall it and then discover that a new switch is required. Hmm at least I can unlock it using the remote. Got one from e$$y for £25 delivered and will fit it next week. However the white nylon body work clips look a bit brittle and I think I should get some too in case any break. Any good ideas on where I get those from?

Hi all. My Tailgate stopped working when unfortunately away from home on holiday - grrr.
It has been playing-up since we bought the Freel2, but this time failed totally.
It unlocked and then would not relock, so central locking would'nt arm either. We got around for the rest of the holiday by strapping the boot down from the inside which allowed the central locking to arm aswell.
I thought the switch was causing the problem, but it seemed to function fine although the actuating plate was very corroded. The microswitch could be heard trying to actuate the lock when pressed.
Here's pictures of the corroded switch:

switch by sean flickr, on Flickr

switch cover by sean flickr, on Flickr
Water seemed to have got in from above, a sloppily attached switch/number plate cowling probably from a previous investigation into the boot problem.

Taking the latch mechanism off and removing the plastic actuator holder from the metal mount exposed the problem clearly. The nylon shaft with actuating thread had snapped, but fortunately not straight across the shaft, but in a jagged manner across a part supported and restrained by bushes. This probably held well enough to unlock the boot since I bought the car, but with a boot stuffed full of luggage, there may have been enough tension on the latch to open up the break and cause the complete failure.

20130407_103208 by sean flickr, on Flickr

20130407_104153-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

Opening the black plastic carriage was tricky, there's lots of brittle clips to snap off, but after removing the actuating shaft it was found to be hollow, and I had a piece of stainless steel rod which fitted almost perfectly inside. The rod was knarled, cut to size and all cleaned and dried throurghly.

20130407_105043 by sean flickr, on Flickr

20130407_105707-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

Then the 3 pieces were glued together with Q-bond, which requires a powder to be poured into the hollow shaft, then the superglue to be dripped on and a reacation takes place which binds it all together.

20130407_110802_1-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

20130407_111341-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

At this stage the shaft was tested for strength and would'nt break when twisted or bent, but for extra belt-and-braces I decided to bond some brass wire around the joint as well.

20130407_112933-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

But had to grind down the central bush to allow the extra width of the repaired shaft to sit and be supported snugly but not tightly.

20130407_115800 by sean flickr, on Flickr

It was all smothed off, cleaned up and fitted for size, seemed good. Don't loose the metal pin and tiny spring which sits under the shaft, as this stops the shaft turning after unlatching the boot lock and it will function incorrectly, not enabling the central locking to work again.

20130407_115819-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

Then grease it all up (not too much on the pin restraint) and re-assemble.

20130407_120954-1 by sean flickr, on Flickr

The lock has now functioned dozens of times perfectly - better than it ever did from the time we bought this car. I also took the opportunity to re-seal the switch cowl, and high level brake light on the top of the boot door as water had been obviously getting in at these two places.

Hope this helps others to fix their broken lock, save about £75, and end up with piece of mind as the repair is much stronger than a replacement part.
~Sean

Excellent post. I find it very satisfying fixing something and saving the cost of a replacement and ending up with a better than new item. Another fellow super-scrimper, I think. How long have you been saving that length of stainless steel rod just in case it would be useful one day, and it did.  - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.