freedieselauto wrote:

Excellent post. I find it very satisfying fixing something and saving the cost of a replacement and ending up with a better than new item. Another fellow super-scrimper, I think. How long have you been saving that length of stainless steel rod just in case it would be useful one day, and it did.

Just fixed mine today. Took about 20 min because of the advice and pics on this thread.
Did notice that the foam seal around the tailgate handle/numberplate light housing had compressed and this was probably where any moisture had gotten in. Also noticed that it had worn a groove into the paint. So new stickybacked foam cut to size and installed.
Thanks forum, well worth the joining fee. Everything is relative to my point of view

Whilst I was waiting for my new switch to arrive my number plate lights failed and the rear wiper stopped at 10pm. I assumed that my "meddling" would be the cause of this so I stripped the tailgate down and the wiper motor body was very hot. No obvious cause for either problem so I fitted the new switch and can now open the boot without resorting to the remote control but can't figure out what common mode failure would cause my other problem I've left the rear wiper disconnected but any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

probably water in the wiper motor, unrelated to the tailgate switch issue


for a while there i was thinking that you noticed your wiper failed at 10 pm after working all evening  At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Hi CG.

Thanks for that.

I don't know what time it packed in. It's just lying a bit above horizontal

Would the motor jamming explain the rear number plate bulbs too? Do you know which fuse they're on they don't appear to be listed in the user manual.

It's all pretty dry and dusty under the tailgate. If it is ingress was down the shaft is there any cure or am I on e**y for a replacement part?

Cheers!

see snappas post on the subject today, the cure involves falling out with the mrs then lubrication a rod At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Progressing the repairs now. Both number plate bulbs blown but not visibly damaged.
Probably some kind of surge associated with the wiper gears jamming. I have the replacement Fiesta mk7 part to fit and will post photos when done.

Fantastic thread, just bought my FL2, and this happened. Bit the bullet and when straight to a dealer and bought a spare, in my experience as Electronic Engineer, although this just needed a clean up with WD40, or get a electrical contact cleaner from Maplins, for sake of 30 quid you might as well replace seeing that you've got the tailgate in bits anyway. I found it easier with the tail gate up, so that the nut would stay in place inside the socket, so no requirement for a magnetic pick up

Just replaced my tailgate switch. I would not of tried to do this without knowledge gained from this excellent forum
-many thanks everyone!
Ps this is the only problem iI've had in 60,000 miles

Mine lasted until approx' 115,000 miles before needing replacement, tried cleaning but it only cured in momentarily...as others have said, for the sake of £20 odd it may as well be replaced and save yourself the hassle.

My car maintenance skills do not usually extend beyond washing the car or changing wiper blades. Tailgate switch stopped working and following this excellent guide I bought a new switch for 25 quid online, followed the photos and have just replaced the switch in 30 minutes without any problems at all - amazed. The old switch was very corroded as found by other contributers with similar problems - didn't bother trying to clean it given the part cost.

Encouraged by the result to keep on top of minor simple repairs from now on - thanks for the superb support this forum provides. Mine: Freelander 2 HSE, 08. Santorini Black/Alpaca Leather, privacy glass, side steps.

I had occasion to consult this thread this weekend.... Thanks for the photos, Sean!

My latch failed in the "part closed" position - ie. the tailgate would not open, by use of tailgate handle switch or remote. All that could be heard was a weak click when operated. The car however logged it as "tailgate open" and refused to let me lock the car and kept the interior lights on too. There was no option but to disconnect the battery last night.
Today, I tried again, but without any luck. I then rang Duckworths and spoke to Adam in the workshop who confirmed that if I could not get the latch to open, the whole lot would have to be dismantled in situ. He thought there "may" be a quick release lever once I accessed the latch (there was not).
To dismantle, I removed the 2 screws in the tailgate trim handles then pulled off the trim from the top. The trim will not come off completely as it is trapped by the closed latch. I was then able to remove the three torx head bolts that hold the latch. I disconnected the electrical connection (use a screwdriver to depress the lock tang and pull off) and was then able to open the tailgate leaving the latch still locked on to the staple. I then removed the hasp by unclipping the threshold trim and levering it up from the inside to access the 2 bolts. I was then able to remove the whole latch/trim/trim/staple assembly from the car. As everything was still locked together, it was clear to me I would have to destroy the latch to separate the parts. I cut off the plastic tags that held the mechanism cover with a Dremel and levered the casing apart. I could then see that the nylon shaft as seen in Sean's photos had snapped in the same place. I was then able to operate the lever that is normally moved by the nylon shaft to unlatch at last.
I have temporarily reconnected the latch electrically ensuring the mechanism is in the locked position. At least I can now lock the car again. The tailgate has been secured internally with bungee cord. I will order a new latch from Dan @Duckworths on Monday.
Thanks again for the photos Sean! 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

No worries Dunkley, hope my posts really helped. It sounds like you had the worse scenario of being locked out instead of unlocked like I had, and I had thought to myself at the time that it would have been more difficult if the switch broke while locked.
Did you notice how little pressure the lever actually needed to unlock when acutated manually. To me it demonstrates that the shaft is a real weak point in this design.
Well done, hope you're new latch lasts.

By the way, mine is functioning perfectly still thank goodness.
~Sean

Yes, Sean. The lever was really light to move. Just wish I knew where it was before I destroyed the casing! I could have then drilled a small hole at the right place. Certainly the nylon shaft does not seem to have a lot of work to do. I guess your "mod" will have made it bulletproof!
I ordered a replacement this morning from Dan @Duckworths. Just over £44 + VAT. Will be with me Wednesday.  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Delivery from Duckworths arrived early afternoon. Replacement latch fitted & tested in <30 min. Tailgate trim refit took double that to get it looking right.  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)