Can anyone tell me what the different terrain response settings actually do?

For instance, what is the difference between grass / ice etc and mud / ruts?

Which is the best all round one for simply getting proper 4 wheel drive?

Id just like to know what happens to the drive when the different settings are selected

Cheers

Not an expert myself but here's a handy YouTube link explaining it in a better way that I ever could.

It has "proper 4 wheel" drive all the time. In normal mode the drive is 90% front and 10% rear wheel drive. This alters depending on what Terrain Response setting you choose. This ranges from 60/40 to 50/50.

Essentially the Terrain Response controls front/rear drive split, degree of traction control, throttle response and engine mapping. Just choose the setting for the ground you are on and the car does the rest. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

To add to JST's useful summary, in normal mode the drive is split more evenly (50/50 or 60/40 iirc) when moving off from rest, then moves gradually forward to 90/10-ish as speed increases. This means that whatever the mode you get plenty of traction for getting away.

TR also controls power and brakes to manage wheelspin - if a wheel starts to spin it will be braked to allow others to gain traction.

From memory:

GGS - Aims to minimise wheelspin for slippery surfaces. 60/40 torque split. Reduced throttle response and tight control of wheelspin.

M&R - For surfaces where there's something solid beneath the mud, but where keeping up momentum is the key to progress. Allows more wheelspin to bite through the mud. Also enables HDC. Torque split 50/50.

Sand - Sometimes referred to as Sport mode because it sharpens up throttle response, gear changes, etc, to keep you moving in sand. Allows more wheelspin. I'm not sure of the torque split, but would guess 50/50.


Sometimes (perhaps counter-intuitively) the key to getting out of trouble is to add more power. E.g. if you're cross-axled and wheelspin is preventing you from getting out, increase the power to 1500 rpm plus and the electronics will start to work their magic and get you out. In principle.

I hope that helps.

"increase the power to 1500 rpm plus and the electronics will start to work their magic and get you out. In principle."

Having been on a couple of Land Rover Experience sessions, it works in practice as well as in principle. Scary to do it at first, but effective

Mind you, I wouldn't like to get totally used to this feature and then swap into a Defender!  Ours - 2008 Stornoway Grey HSE Auto
Tricia's - 2006 Royal Blue Beetle Cabriolet Auto
Mine - 2014 Vespa GTS 300 Super Sport Matt Black
Ours - 2007 White Bailey Pageant Champagne

To add to the already posted useful replies:

When moving off from rest the car is predominantly front wheel drive with approx 90% to the front wheels and remainder to the rear. At a constant speed in a straight line the spilt will be more like 80:20 or 70:30, make a sudden move from a straight line and it will almost instantaneously change to allocation of drive to 60:40 or 50:50.

GGS programme will set the car up to minimise wheel spin when moving off from a standing start it does this by changing the throttle response, altering gear change speeds in an auto and adjusting DSC to reduce the chance of wheel spin.

M&R programme (sometimes referred to as the generic off road programme) adjusts the vehicle set up to optimise performance in off road conditions. It will also turn on HDC by default.

Sand programme is a dynamic programme which is designed to get the vehicle moving in soft dry sand (typically desert), if wet sand then M&R is probably a better programme.

Traction Control does not always require an increase to 1500 rpm to force it to work. All that is needed is for the sensors in the wheels to detect they are spinning and the brakes will be applied to that wheel forcing drive to the other wheel on the same axle. Often an increase in revs of only 100 rpm will enough to make work. Less scary than ramping up to 1500 rpm but also more environmentally friendly and effective.

As rjc1944 said it is a standard demo on a LR Experience session to show just how capable the Freelander is.

Also with the auto box in sand mode it take you right up to the red line  

I've found that sand mode is best for river crossings. The traction is good and the revs are higher allowing you to keep a constant speed. DSC off as well.

mikehzz wrote:

I've found that sand mode is best for river crossings. The traction is good and the revs are higher allowing you to keep a constant speed. DSC off as well.

Correct TR setting when wading is dependent on what type of surface you're driving over. I'd be looking at either Mud & Ruts or Sand rather than Grass,Gravel,Snow.

rchrdleigh wrote:

To add to the already posted useful replies:

When moving off from rest the car is predominantly front wheel drive with approx 90% to the front wheels and remainder to the rear. At a constant speed in a straight line the spilt will be more like 80:20 or 70:30, make a sudden move from a straight line and it will almost instantaneously change to allocation of drive to 60:40 or 50:50.

When moving from rest in normal mode wouldn't the drive be 60-40 to the fronts under then when as a comfortable speed is reached the split would then change to 90-10.

Does each type of selected driving mode 'kick out' at pre defined speeds? For eg - if you've left it in M&R and your now doing 60mph does it automatically throw the selection back to 'normal' - this particularly aimed at the SD4 auto MY2013/14 models MY14 SD4 HSE LUX, Colour - Santorini Black, Spare Alloy, Privacy Glass, Front & rear SS tread plates, Chrome arse, Official LR coat hanger!! <-- Going soon... Any offers?

On order - DS2 with pretty much everything on 👌

"Keep it Moist"

Don't think so. But you would probably notice well before then. Left mine in snow mode once when turning onto the autobahn (which had been cleared) - I soon noticed that it wouldn't accelerate!