The Doctor wrote:

rchrdleigh wrote:

Actually LR claim that stopping for 3 seconds or more will start saving fuel.

Perhaps they have improved it for MY11 onwards. I heard 10 seconds from somewhere.

rchrdleigh wrote:

The Doctor wrote:

rchrdleigh wrote:

Actually LR claim that stopping for 3 seconds or more will start saving fuel.

Perhaps they have improved it for MY11 onwards. I heard 10 seconds from somewhere.

My information came from a MY10 Stop/Start document.

Well that's cheered me up in this regard

I always sat there thinking it wasn't achieving anything during engine cut off for less than 10 seconds. Even though the difference in fuel saving is probably minor.

I understand LR fitted a heavy duty starter motor to cope. Is that right? LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

Yeah, heavy duty starter motor is fitted, lets hope it's more heavy duty than the clutch!

The Doctor wrote:

I understand LR fitted a heavy duty starter motor to cope. Is that right?

I have had similar problems with mine since new, but it always worked for the dealer. It seems to work most times now but I have found it works better if you fully stop before selecting neutral, and then select neutral positively. If it still does not work and I think all the conditions have been met, usually reselecting a gear and then going into neutral will trigger it. Once it has worked like this it is ok for the rest of the journey.

gimmik to get freelander into lower tax band class with better fuel consumption figs  rainy-city
xs

On my previous FL the green gear change arrow went out when stop/start deactivated. FL12 the green arrow stays on very irratating

Hi my start / stop is working well and I'm using it whenever I can.
It restarts itself after 1 minute or so at the lights due to the air con is running (today it's 40c) during the day, but at night it stays off until I push the clutch in.
It saves a bit of diesel, I'm getting just under 900k's a tank city driving.

Nairbr wrote:

today it's 40c.

Thanks mate, I feel so much better for knowing that

Ghyllie oo! Shiney!
____________________________________________
55 Nissan Navara SE Black - My Toy.
08 Freelander 2 XS Santorini Black - Her Majesty's Toy.

Mine hasn't worked for a while then today it just stopped at a set of lights. Outside temp 4c. I noticed that if the blowers were set past the 3rd notch the engine would cut out then with-in seconds start back up again. If blowers were set low then then engine would stay off till I pressed the clutch. I like the car warm and the blowers on, this will be draining the battery so the Eco will not kick in. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

It's a poor stop/start system that uses the old design starter motor.
The best uses a machine coupled direct to the crankshaft and does both starter and alternator functions  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Interesting to read that even when working as it should no noticeable difference in consumption comapred to when not working.

Perhaps like a fluorescent light, though it sounds wasteful and a no brainer in running it for a longer period of time as switching it on and off works out to be more expensive.

The conventional starter motor cannot turn the engine over to normal tickover rpm and therefore the EMS has to enrich the mixture to bring up the engine speed.

With a machine directly on the end of the crankshaft, it can wind the rpm up to typically 800 rpm and there is no need for further enrichment to obtain tickover speed. This is where the savings are made.
It's often refered to as a 'starternator' and is ucannily quiet in it's operation  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Did not Volkswagen Beetles have a dynomo and starter combined into a dynostart machine back in the 60s - It never really caught and was not taken up by any other manufacturer.
What has changed to make it better today except we have changed from dynamos to altenators?

The use of the starternator hasn't really took off yet, most VM's have elected to stay with the conventional starter motor for the time being with improved pinion engagement.

As I mentioned before, the big advantage of having a stater motor on the end of the crank, is it's ability to spin the engine at a much higher rpm and no starter ring.

Incorporating the alternator on the crank at much higher rpm meant that 42 volts could be generated. The industry at first seemed as if it was going down that route as extra load demand got higher, ie EPAS and Pre heated cats. That seems to have gone a bit quiet for the time being; contact erosion is just one of the issues. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.