Hi there.

I've had my FL2 now for just over a year (2010 reg, 25K, 19" wheels), and I love it apart from a few niggles. For the purposes of this thread, one of my main niggles is with the steering wheel.

I've driven lot's of cars over the years and tend to notice when something doesn't feel quite as it should be.

I've found that when driving along, on a relatively straight and level bit of road, the steering wheel never quite seems level and find it mostly always looks & feels like it is ever so slightly turned clockwise.

I've had tracking checked, I've had a full wheel alignment and steering geometry done which analysed all sorts of good stuff such as camber; caster; toe; thrust angle, etc.

But still the issue remains. I've recently had 4 brand new tyres on hoping that would make a difference but no.

When I changed the tyres, there was signs of wearing on the edges on the fronts (but these tyres had been on before the wheel alignment & steering geometry check).

Aside from bothering me in general, I'm worried in case the car decides to unevenly wear my new tyres.

I recently had a 2012 courtesy FL2 and observed on similar stretches of road the steering wheel in that was much more how I'd expect it to be.

At this point I'm at a total loss of what it could be. Any ideas? Has anyone else experienced this issue?

This is easily sorted.

The track rods need adjusting by the same amount on each side of the car (but in opposite directions).

This will retain the correct tracking, but will alter the dead ahead position of the steering wheel. Now: 2012 FL2 SD4 XS Orkney Grey
Previously: 2007 D3 TDV6 XS Tonga Green
Before that: 2003 FL1 TD4 "Kalahari" Black

UKDEN wrote:

This is easily sorted.

The track rods need adjusting by the same amount on each side of the car (but in opposite directions).

This will retain the correct tracking, but will alter the dead ahead position of the steering wheel.

That drives me nuts when the wheel isn't central, it really does. When I had my clutch done the wheel was massively out so I took it back to get it centralised, then took it back again as it still wasn't right......got there in the end. Had the same a few years back on the Vectra (remote buttons nigh on at 7 and 11 o'clock )

It's an easy fix

I find the hard bit is finding a decent garage. I want it bob on so it's a case of finding somebody who can do the job. It drives me absolutely bonkers.

I used these at sherburn in elmet

http://www.sherburnrubber.co.uk/

Click their offer page at the bottom for a £10 voucher too

npinks wrote:

I used these at sherburn in elmet

http://www.sherburnrubber.co.uk/

Click their offer page at the bottom for a £10 voucher too

This should have been done when they did the tracking. Normally the steering wheel should be centred first (they use a bracket that jams between the steering wheel and the seat to hold it in position) and then the tracking/geometry can be set and all will be OK. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

JST wrote:

This should have been done when they did the tracking. Normally the steering wheel should be centred first (they use a bracket that jams between the steering wheel and the seat to hold it in position) and then the tracking/geometry can be set and all will be OK.

As JTS has stated the wheel needs to be central before any tracking adjustments are made.
I recently fitted a new steering rack and track rod ends. Took it to ATS, told them what I had done and could you make sure the wheel is central when tracking the rods which they did no problems and all runs stright and true.

superspark wrote:

As JTS has stated the wheel needs to be central before any tracking adjustments are made.
I recently fitted a new steering rack and track rod ends. Took it to ATS, told them what I had done and could you make sure the wheel is central when tracking the rods which they did no problems and all runs stright and true.

I've also read that adjustments can be made to the drag link for minor steering wheel adjustments i.e.

"Small adjustments can be made lengthening/shortening the drag link.

There is slot on the back of the drop arm that should line up with a bolt hole in the steering box casing with the wheels dead straight."

"The track rod is to adjust the wheels in relation to each other.

Altering the drag link will move the steering wheel, but only for small corrections. If the steering wheel is too far out, then steering column shaft will need undoing and moving over a spline."

Had exactly that problem on mine when I bought it last December. Riders (formerly Carrs) of Truro sorted it out pdq without charge - don't know what they did but it's been fine ever since. Ours - 2008 Stornoway Grey HSE Auto
Tricia's - 2006 Royal Blue Beetle Cabriolet Auto
Mine - 2014 Vespa GTS 300 Super Sport Matt Black
Ours - 2007 White Bailey Pageant Champagne

rjc1944 wrote:

Had exactly that problem on mine when I bought it last December. Riders (formerly Carrs) of Truro sorted it out pdq without charge - don't know what they did but it's been fine ever since.

b_o_b_o wrote:

I've also read that adjustments can be made to the drag link for minor steering wheel adjustments.