I am trading-in or selling my 5 year old FL2 and replacing it with a ex-demo one 6 months old (manual GS). Was informed by the salesman that a dealer fitted towbar and electrics is now £800 -1000 - so Im going to fit my own again like I did 5 years ago.
Then I fitted a Witter removable towbar, Electric pack from Landrover and got the dealer to code it - was all very easy.

Just wondered if the car has changed in the last 5 years to make me have to undertake a different process ?

Also anyone recommend a good but cheaper towbar installer (just in case it turns out not to be worth me DIYing it - which I doubt) in the Tamworth, Staffs area.

Just fitted the one from my 2007 XS to a brand new 2012. About the only thing different was my new one has the DAB so found the receiver behind the trim. However the bracket for the DAB has the slots to mount the trailer control unit. May not apply if using a non LR TCU and not sure if the GS has DAB. I now have the old bracket spare as it was not needed.

Fitting the bar was exactly the same as removal. Download the fitting instructions to identify all the parts you need to remove. Some on fleabay have been sold without the anchor nut bracket which is inside the towing eye bracket. I removed mine by leaving the left bracket attached to the bar and just removing the 2 big bolts that go up into the chassis rail.

As I did not have a big enough grommet I sealed the hole left by the loom coming out by cleaning the metalwork thoroughly and covering with gaffa tape inside and out.

Got the recoding done for free in recompense for issues found with the car when I got it home.

The worst bit was the bumper cutout. Remeasured that about 4 times before the 1st cut. Prog rock is cool!
2012 XS SD4 Indus Silver

And when you do the bumper cut, don't cut the corners at right angles, do them as an arc, if you cut them as right angles, intime the corners may start to crack, spreading across the bumper.

Don't cut the corners at all, drill holes at each corner inside the square you have marked out, the outside diameter of the drilled hole is the radiused corner, this will stop any crack propergation as mentioned by ad210358. What if there were no hypothetical situations?

Having drilled the corners as per Gunfa don't use a jigsaw as suggested in the instructions as the bumper cover bounces and vibrates all over the place.

I used a sharp fine toothed wood saw to cut from the edge to the holes, the deep blade back helps keep everything straight. It is not very hard to cut and long smooth strokes with the saw had it done in a few minutes.

To make the cross cut between the holes I used a straight edge and a new Stanley Knife. Score the paint side carefully a few times, repeat on the inside of the bumper but this time a bit deeper and harder. Flex the cutoff piece several times and it will snap off cleanly. Dress the 2 sawcuts and the jobs a goodun'

You mention yours is a Witter removable so you may not need a cut and if you do take some measurements from the old bumper. The FL1 bumper had a centre line moulded in to it which made measurements very easy, the FL2 does not . I had to strike a line from the tabs used to support the PDC loom. Prog rock is cool!
2012 XS SD4 Indus Silver

I recently fitted a Tow Trust detachable bar (as new but used, purchased from the Sales/Wanted section of the forum) and a dedicated 13 pin wiring kit from PF Jones.

The Tow Trust tow bar fits without the need for any bumper cutting and has a horizontal receiver for the detachable swan neck.

I managed to fit it without the need to remove the rear bumper, although it was quite a challenge to fit the left hand strengthening plate which attaches to two captive studs behind the rear bumper. The Tow Trust instructions suggested drilling two 20mm holes through the bumper behind the left hand reflector, but these holes do not align with the studs.
Fortunately I have a wide selection of sockets and universal joints and was able to get the nuts undone and the bracket in place by passing a 1/4 inch drive socket extension bar through each of the holes I drilled in the bumper.
Apart from that it was pretty straightforward.

The dedicated wiring kit was a doddle to fit although I didn't bother following the instructions completely and left the main left hand boot liner trim section in place. I just removed the floor section covering the spare wheel area and the small side trim on the left hand side. The existing FL2 trailer connection plug was then accessible and I mounted the electronic box of tricks from the dedicated kit against the rear internal cross member below the left hand light cluster.
The two earthing tags from the wiring kit needed the holes making a little bigger and were then bolted to a good earth point where the left hand load tie down D ring is located. I haven't had the FL2 re-programmed yet, but apart from the reversing sensor disable, everything else seems to work fine.

The wiring kit was £160 and the towbar was £105, both delivered.
The dealer we bought the vehicle from also quoted £800, so i am pretty chuffed!!

The dealer I bought the car from quoted me £350 just to take the bar from the old car and fit it to the new.  Prog rock is cool!
2012 XS SD4 Indus Silver

I've just paid £350 for a Witter Detachable Towbar to be installed to my Father in-laws HSE (Birthday present). This price included the electrics although they were not the genuine ones. The fitter was recommend by my local LR garage as their prices were out of this world

That sounds like a great deal maffs. As above, it cost me 265 in parts and that included a used tow bar!

Ive bought a Witter flange detachable towbar, non-OEM dedicated 13pin electrics, stainless protection plate, 7-13 pin adapter for £355 from PF Jones. Should arrive tomorrow - will fit at weekend. No bumper cutting required.

PF Jones were selling the Westfalia Detachable recently for £205 delivered with non genuine electrics.

Be wary of issues with rear sensors and the auto stop start system if fitting after market product.
I ordered my FL2 last year with LR towbar to avoid electronic problems. It arrived fitted with a Witter, aftermarket electronics and the rear sensors permanently disabled.
Fortunately I had recorded my final purchase meeting on my MobilePhone where I had clearly specified LR Towbar. Dealer did a fast reverse and fitted LR towbar and electrics. I think I bought before the massive price hike and can appreciate why most will want to try alternatives.

All done - the electrics were very easy to install - the non-OEM kit had all the bits including the 40amp fuse (which the LR kit didnt have in the past). The Witter towbar was more awkward as there is not a lot of room to get your hands up the back of the bumper. Also two bolts used threads within the main towbar cross beam - I had to re-tap these as the threads had paint / weld debris in them (not up to usual Witter standard this one) causing the bolts to jam.
Car electrics still function Ok - just need to find time to get the system set for towing.

jules wrote:

All done - the electrics were very easy to install - the non-OEM kit had all the bits including the 40amp fuse (which the LR kit didnt have in the past). The Witter towbar was more awkward as there is not a lot of room to get your hands up the back of the bumper. Also two bolts used threads within the main towbar cross beam - I had to re-tap these as the threads had paint / weld debris in them (not up to usual Witter standard this one) causing the bolts to jam.
Car electrics still function Ok - just need to find time to get the system set for towing.

Good work and well done for getting the torque on those bolts. If i remember rightly there's one which requires 130 pounds

jules wrote:

Car electrics still function Ok - just need to find time to get the system set for towing.