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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Extra driving lamps and mounting them
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D99



Member Since: 08 Mar 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 386

England 

EYorkshire wrote:
Must admit that the spots looked photoshopped on the FL2 in the catalogue, I think it's showing the look rather than the fix.


LOL thats the first thing that came into my mind too, same for the Jeep pic.

Post #128664 22nd Jan 2012 7:22 pm
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Vonkroloc



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Spain
Posts: 15

Spain 2011 Freelander 2 TD4_e S Manual Fuji White

Have you think about the original ones

Click image to enlarge


P/n LR004088 My Range Rover does not lose oil, footprint the ground he walks on

Post #129061 25th Jan 2012 4:52 pm
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EYorkshire



Member Since: 18 Nov 2010
Location: (!)
Posts: 4392

They don't fit the MY11 front I don't believe Sad

Post #129082 25th Jan 2012 6:00 pm
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Vonkroloc



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Spain
Posts: 15

Spain 2011 Freelander 2 TD4_e S Manual Fuji White

What a pitty I was thinking about to adquire them... but if they don fit our car. My Range Rover does not lose oil, footprint the ground he walks on

Post #129159 25th Jan 2012 8:29 pm
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v40mav



Member Since: 27 Aug 2011
Location: Scotland
Posts: 36

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Tambora Flame

Bringing another old topic back up -

Was out in the freelander last night and I forgot how poor the front lights are - Yes thats after upgrading the bulbs Very Happy

I guess I'm comparing the lights to the Disco with the xenon and spots and the defender now with LED spots.

Thinking about adding a couple of rigid LED spots - https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic82561.html

and adding a bracket similar to this -just long enough to get the lights on - -

Image taken from D3 site - as a guide only

Click image to enlarge


Does anyone have any pics of a freelander 2 with the grill off

Looking to see if there is anyway of fabricating a bracket similar to this - As I do not want to drill / cut or damage the front end.

Any issues that I'd need to consider for the wiring -

Hugh Disco 3 HSE

Defender Puma 110

Freelander 2 HSE

Post #159033 28th Oct 2012 1:32 pm
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Eurolandy



Member Since: 09 Oct 2010
Location: Cleveleys, Lancashire
Posts: 285

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Going back to the issue of the wiring of driving lights (via the main beam), on many previous vehicles, I have always traditionally wired these through a relay powered from the main beam circuit (feed taken off one of the headlights) with an override switch on the dash.
I understand that the FL2 lighting wiring circuit uses FETs. Therefore, am I correct in thinking that if I locate the main beam wiring and test for +12V DC (to energise the relay coil), the multimeter will read +12V continuously (with ignition switched on)? However, it is only when you flick the main beam switch that the relay will receive enough current to energise the coil (even though we are taking milliamps)? I suppose it would be wise to obtain a relay with a diode across the coil to prevent any possible spikes. Auto electrical suppliers on the web supply these (just a case of connecting the coil & diode the correct way round).

Looking at the Disco 4 photo (nice job) it would be easy to manufacture brackets, which could be easily removed later on when selling the car.

Do we have any electronic experts as members? Question

Post #159254 30th Oct 2012 11:12 am
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fisha



Member Since: 28 Aug 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 299

Not sure about the fets, when I switch full beam on, I can hear a relay click, so I think if you piggy backed the relay you should be fine.

Post #159811 4th Nov 2012 2:36 pm
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Eurolandy



Member Since: 09 Oct 2010
Location: Cleveleys, Lancashire
Posts: 285

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Fisha,
Looking at the wiring diagram (which I had mislaid until last night), the main beam as you said, appears to be wired ‘conventionally’ through a relay (not via FETs), so yes it’s a case of tapping into the cable at the back of a headlight for the feed to the auxiliary driving light relay solenoid.
However looking closely at the wiring diagram it looks like the relay maybe PCB mounted inside the Fuse Box / Central Junction Box (along with a few others) so may not be generally accessible without a strip down.
Interesting to see if anyone has changed a relay. Dread to think what the entire fuse box / CJB assembly costs.

Post #159957 5th Nov 2012 6:56 pm
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fisha



Member Since: 28 Aug 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 299

If my rr was anything to go by, the relays on pcbs looked like they had a base soldered to the board that the relay then plugged into . So may not be the worst to change if needed.

Post #159960 5th Nov 2012 7:16 pm
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v40mav



Member Since: 27 Aug 2011
Location: Scotland
Posts: 36

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Tambora Flame

Eurolandy wrote:
Fisha,
Looking at the wiring diagram (which I had mislaid until last night), the main beam as you said, appears to be wired ‘conventionally’ through a relay (not via FETs), so yes it’s a case of tapping into the cable at the back of a headlight for the feed to the auxiliary driving light relay solenoid.
However looking closely at the wiring diagram it looks like the relay maybe PCB mounted inside the Fuse Box / Central Junction Box (along with a few others) so may not be generally accessible without a strip down.
Interesting to see if anyone has changed a relay. Dread to think what the entire fuse box / CJB assembly costs.


if there is a conventional wire to the head light where I can tap a feed for the relay - surely then the old standard install will work using a separate standard relay. ? Take a power supply straight from the battery - earth / feed from headlamp and use this to trip the spots ?

Any reason this will not work ? Disco 3 HSE

Defender Puma 110

Freelander 2 HSE

Post #159981 6th Nov 2012 6:27 am
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nicedayforit



Member Since: 06 Feb 2012
Location: Beside the Solway
Posts: 114

v40mav wrote:


if there is a conventional wire to the head light where I can tap a feed for the relay - surely then the old standard install will work using a separate standard relay. ? Take a power supply straight from the battery - earth / feed from headlamp and use this to trip the spots ?

Any reason this will not work ?


No reason at all why it won't work.
Most sensible way to do it.
I presume you are going to fit a fuse in the power straight off the battery?
Personally I would take the earth back to the battery as well.
I suggest you oversize the cables to minimise volt drop to the spots to ensure maximum brightness.

Post #159993 6th Nov 2012 8:56 am
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v40mav



Member Since: 27 Aug 2011
Location: Scotland
Posts: 36

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Tambora Flame

Yes plan to keep the standard install fused relay etc etc. but the current draw will be low as I plan to use LED lights Disco 3 HSE

Defender Puma 110

Freelander 2 HSE

Post #160012 6th Nov 2012 12:54 pm
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nicedayforit



Member Since: 06 Feb 2012
Location: Beside the Solway
Posts: 114

Thumbs Up

Post #160020 6th Nov 2012 1:19 pm
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Dommel



Member Since: 17 Oct 2012
Location: In the mud
Posts: 19

I'm looking for extra driving lights too. I'm not sure were and hoe to install them.
Second problem is the electricity: I'm thinking to take it directly of the headligt beam wires.

Roverland has installed driving lights earlier: -click-

Post #167649 16th Jan 2013 8:49 pm
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Eurolandy



Member Since: 09 Oct 2010
Location: Cleveleys, Lancashire
Posts: 285

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

I'm currently part way through my Driving light installation. Just installed the brackets and part of the wiring loom (while the bumper was off). I expect to complete it this weekend (dependent on the weather) so I will post some pics and a wiring diagram ASAP.
Chris

Post #167656 16th Jan 2013 9:26 pm
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