Factory recommended maintenance Land Rover and/or Volvo

A. Fluids
- Engine oil (6 months/ 7500 miles)
- Automatic transmission fluid (10 years / 150,000 miles)
- Brake Fluid (every 2 years, harsh use)
- Engine coolant (Every 10 years)
- Gear oil for power transfer angle gear (10 years /150,00 miles)
- Gear oil for rear differential (10 years /150,00 miles)

B. Filters
- Oil filter (6 months/ 7500 miles)
- Engine air filter (12 months/ 15000 miles)
- cabin air filter(Volvo: Every 20,000 miles)

C. A tune up
- Replace spark plugs (every 75,000 miles)

D. Replace items due to wear out
- Serpentine belt and pulleys (5 years / 75,000 miles in harsh use, 105,000 miles normal use)

Last edited by p_gill on 15th May 2021 3:02 am. Edited 8 times in total

No recommended service interval (Land Rover / Volvo)

A. Fluids
- Power-steering fluid (No replacement interval)
- Haldex fluid (No replacement interval)


B. Filters
- Power steering reservoir (filter screen in reservoir)(No replacement interval)
- Haldex filter (if your ambitious then the filter screen on the pump also) (No replacement interval)
- Fuel filter (Skip this one if the filter is part of the pump in the tank) (No replacement interval)

C. Tune up
- Coil packs (if burnt or misfires are detected) (No replacement interval)
- MAF and MAP (not on the list yet but maybe they should be) (No replacement interval)
- Fuel pressure sender (Return-less fuel system is very dependent on this sensor) (No replacement interval)



By combining the factory list (with slightly modified intervals) and the items that the Factory skipped but I listed, I get the list that I am working from below

Last edited by p_gill on 15th May 2021 3:01 am. Edited 6 times in total

I just bought my second 3.2 and I am adding 12 & I to the list

AWD marked with AWD - FWD 3.2's can ignore AWD items

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
1. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler -
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) – I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
7. Spark Plugs - replaced mine twice (every 50,000 miles, Volvo recommends 75,000 miles)
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
9. Battery – every 4 to 8 years (Low voltage while starting causes electrical gremlins on LR2)
10. O-Rings for Vacuum pump (only if it leaks)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
12. AWD Replace CV joint grease in drive shaft joint near catalytic converter
13. Leak detection pump filter clean or replace every 5 years (note: not all markets have a leak detection pump) to prevent code P2402

Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
B) Fuel pressure sending unit
C) PCV valve – replaced mine at 113,000 miles
D) Engine mounts
E) AC Compressor or clutch pack - (Installed a new compressor and clutch on the S80)
F) Ignition coils (Some evidence that a failed Thermostat leads to overheating and premature Coil failure)
G) Radiator Fan
H) Wheel Bearings
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
J) Radiator
K) Front Struts
L) Rear Shocks

Less common repairs
I. Starter motor - typically fails at 100,000 miles or 10 years
II. Blower Resistor
III. Front Brake calipers refurbished
IV. Loose bolt on alternator pulley
V. Overdrive clutch pulley Alternator
VI. Overdrive clutch pulley READ drive (Serpentine Belt)
VII. BLUETOOTH phone module (bypass with a fiberoptic loop if you don't use it)
VIII. Purge Valve for Fuel Vapor Recovery

2008 LR2 3.2 items completed

Maintenance 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,11
Typical repairs A, B, C, D, E, G, I, K
Less Common Repairs I,III,V,VI,VII,VIII

2010 S80 3.2 items completed

Maintenance 1,2,3,5,6,7,10
Typical repairs A, B, C, D, E, G, H, I, J, K, L
Less Common Repairs - III, VI

Last edited by p_gill on 10th May 2023 6:02 pm. Edited 14 times in total

If the 3.2 on These is like the Volvo’s . I remove the belts and tensioner and unbolt the alternator and replace any and all questionable bearings and one way INA pulleys .
When I service the rear axel and Haldex unit I always take the extra time to just remove the entire Haldex unit from the differential assembly as it’s only four extra bolts .
Then it gives me a chance to flush out and clean the old clutch plate material and feel for any abnormal wear or pitted pinion bearings .
When flushing rear gear fluid if I see any fine metal dust I know I will be doing pinion bearings .
On the Volvo’s I like to replace the struts with Bilstien B6 shocks and struts if they have not been done.
I also always rebuild the vacuume pumps with o ring kits only about $26
Alternators can be rebuilt at around 200k or just replace entire thing as at 200k not only brushes worn but most likely front and rear shaft bearing.
Hood shocks and tailgate shocks after 10 years or so also don’t want to get hit in head by weak strut shocks.
When changing spark plugs inspect coil plastic where it goes down into spark plug hole as often it separates over the years and leaks high voltage.
Fuel filters need changing .
The PCV box and valve on head should be serviced.
Those are some of the things I can think of ..
Oh flush brake fluid .. and trans fluids ,basicly all fluids
Change cabin filters !!!!
Inspect moonroof drains.

Excellent feedback

The "Volvo" 3.2 was built at a FORD plant in the UK and it was used in many Volvo's as well as the LR2 or Freelander 2

I wonder how many Volvo owners know that their engine was built in the UK?


I need to add a 200,000 mile maintenance list

- replace Alternator

- replace shocks and struts (B6's are a good choice)

- replace fuel filter (note: it may be part of the fuel pump assembly in the tank)

- Haldex maintenance major service disassemble and clean out old clutch material

- Check coil packs for cracks or carbon tracks

- replace the overdrive pulleys


I am a little surprised that you didn't mention the following items

A) Thermostat https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=86205

I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31826-30.html


Have you ever replaced an Ant-Drain back valve or the entire oil filter housing? The failure symptom is low oil pressure.

Do you see Thermostat failures as shown in the link above?

I really appreciate your feedback.

Happy Motoring

Paul

All,

I updated the work that I've done recently to my LR2 and S80


LR2

- Radiator fan

- Alternator overdrive pulley


S80

- AC compressor

- Overdrive clutch pulley READ drive


At this point in my ownership almost everything that was expected to wear out has in fact worn out.

With the exception of the fuel pressure sending unit and I have a new one on my shelf.

I just waiting "For that day".....


Take care

Paul

PS the list was generated by reading Posts on Freel2 and other boards, thanks for your input.

Last edited by p_gill on 26th Jun 2019 8:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Nice update , I bet she still runs like a dream.

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

Bloomin’ought to.......it’s mostly a new car

 Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Mark and Dave,

You are correct my 2008 3.2 runs like new. (I am the first and only owner)

The way that I think about it is this.

- The Thermostat is a known failure point at ~10 years

- Failed Thermostats can lead to coil pack failures

- Failed coil packs can lead to misfires and Catalytic converter failures

- And in severe instances a failed Thermostat (or possibly failed radiator fan) can lead to head gasket failure

For me it is easier to just replace the Thermostat and the Radiator Fan.

I expect that going through my list twice will get you to 300K miles with a very low probability of major mechanical failure

If you want more than 300K then you will need to look into replacing the Timing chain and a long list of additional items that will wear out

At this point I completed my first pass through the list and I am above 100K for both vehicles

Take care

Paul

To add to the fray, for future LR2 owners. Mines a (7 year old) 2012 3.2 with about 140,000km on the clock. Not too long ago the electric fan died and the thermostat was also found to be faulty. Car had gone into the red zone at least 3 times for very short periods of time. Now one of the coil packs is intermittently misfiring.

Oh and the car is in daily 30-40c ambient tropical temperature which maybe why the failure rate is much quicker than the commonly suggested 10 year failure point.

Paul L.

Thanks for adding to the discussion.

I live in San Jose California, so its hot, but not Singapore hot.

I suspect that the failure rate is likely due to operating time and not miles driven.

In my case I drove my LR2 on the highway 30 miles each way at an average speed of 50 miles per hour.

About 36 minutes in the morning and another 36 minutes in the evening = 72 minutes per day (1.2 hours per day)

100,000 miles divided by 60 miles per day = 1667 days

1667 * 1.2 hours per day = 2000 hours


Do you think that you spent over 2000 hours driving in the past 7 years?

Singapore is a small island and there is a lot of traffic.


As you can see from the posts above I own two 3.2's with the same engine one in my 2008 LR2 and one in my 2010 S80.
I haven't changed the coil packs in either vehicle. (But I did buy a replacement coil pack and I keep it in the glove box just in case)

Enjoy your LR2 (or Freelander 2) and thanks again for the comments

Paul G.

paulblincoln wrote:

To add to the fray, for future LR2 owners. Mines a (7 year old) 2012 3.2 with about 140,000km on the clock. Not too long ago the electric fan died and the thermostat was also found to be faulty. Car had gone into the red zone at least 3 times for very short periods of time. Now one of the coil packs is intermittently misfiring.

Oh and the car is in daily 30-40c ambient tropical temperature which maybe why the failure rate is much quicker than the commonly suggested 10 year failure point.

Same thing last month. Fan stopped working, only symptom was AC blowing warm when sitting at idle (never got an overtemp). Shop replaced fan control module, thought it was fixed so we went on a road trip but the fan failed again. Used a OBDII scangauge to monitor actual coolant temp, kept it below 230*F (fan supposed to come on at 215*F).

Then the thermostat failed open, probably due to the abnormal heat fluctuations. Hard to warm up to normal temp, and would cool down below normal temp on the highway (had to tape bags over the grill to keep it warm enough).

Think I avoided other damage by controlling engine temps with the scangauge. A bit challenging with both fan and thermostat broke.

That was a fun road trip

Word to the wise... looks like if your fan fails you'd better get a new thermostat just to be safe. Lot of the same labor to get to the fan so might as well. Oh yeah... shop said the thermostat was in several pieces, lucky none of it got circulated into the block or water pump If your thermostat fails open, I'd get it towed rather than keep driving like I did. Thought I was safe as long as I kept it warm to avoid excessive engine wear due to loose tolerances, but I didn't know the thermostat was in pieces.

Got the fan and thermostat replaced when we got home. Should have replaced the thermostat myself sooner, anybody guess a safe interval for that? 100k miles?

Hmm so far so good here, 115K miles but only had the car for about 1000 of those (the car was primarily bought for occasional long drives and getting stuff to the tip which won’t fit in the i3).......it seems to have been well looked after by its previous owner and serviced regularly as for a 13 year old car everything works as it should and no odd noises (once the carp half worn Wranglers were replaced).......I have icarsoft reader and wonder if that would indicate any issues with the thermostat.....I fear not as I assume it’s just a normal century old design 😄 Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Quote:

.........I have icarsoft reader and wonder if that would indicate any issues with the thermostat.....I fear not as I assume it’s just a normal century old design 😄.................

Dave,

The Thermostat in the 3.2 is a very unique piece of Engineering.





If you want to know more about it then use this link

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=86205


Take care

Paul

Paul-
Searched for battery light and alternator and didn’t find anything I was looking for. My battery light came on today. The local guy (who does not do imports) put a meter on it. The alt isn’t charging, but it is turning. Any chance it’s anything other than a dead alternator? He said it looks like you have to drop the intake manifold. Is that true? If so, what else should we do while we’re in there, since that alone is a couple hours shop time?

The other day, I drove to MSP- about 300 miles. In downtown traffic, the temp gauge went up fairly high. It overheated a couple months ago. It was the oil cooler hose. The shop said both fans were working, but that doesn’t mean they are today.

This thing has 297,000 miles on it. I’m planning on 500. And having to do my share of maintenance between here and there, which is way cheaper than a new vehicle.

Thanks
David