Forum-Gallery-Shop-Sponsors

« Advertise on Freel2.com

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Oil Filter Cap Torque
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1231

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame
Oil Filter Cap Torque

FREEL2,

What Torque do you use





I do use a Torque Wrench and I set it to

25 Nm

And it never leaks

Is the + 5 an upper limit

25 to 30 Nm

Or does it mean something else


I am just curious if I’ve been doing it wrong

Thanks

Paul

Post #409253 21st Jun 2021 12:28 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4102

United Kingdom 

Never torqued an oil filter cap in my life and I’ve been in the trade 45+ years. Just nip it up. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #409262 21st Jun 2021 1:06 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

I tighten it until the cap lip seats on the canister, the oring makes it fairly firm to turn but it comes to a hard stop when it seats.

It would probably seal fine at some intermediate point, but who knows where that point it is... the seat is definitive.

It's not NPT or a bolt that's getting tension so I don't really see the torque rising much until it actually seats. I assume that's what the torque value is for... but it's also obvious when it stops turning.

Post #409264 21st Jun 2021 2:11 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2071

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

The filter cover is sealed by an O ring, which is on the side, just above the threads. This means that the cover will actually seal, even if the cap is only hand tight, or even a few turns off tight.
The 25 Nm torque is listed, simply to stop over zealous spanner monkeys from breaking the thing, by over-tightening the cap.
If the technician knows what they are doing, there's no need to use a torque wrench, and on some vehicles (the TD4 for instance) a torque wrench won't get anywhere near the cap. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #409266 21st Jun 2021 3:05 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1343

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Yes, I have been known to exhibit "spanner monkey" characteristics on occasion. Laughing

Post #409269 21st Jun 2021 3:36 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1231

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Excellent feedback by everyone

I will continue to use the Torque wrench just to make sure that I don't get too aggressive with the torque.

I did snap a bolt recently (M5 or M4) on a Transmission filter when I over Torqued it. (My Son's VW with a 6 speed AISIN that is very similar to the one in my LR2, except that it has an accessible filter)

To remedy the situation I backed out the broken bit with some needle nose pliers. So no harm done.


I do agree that the Oil filter housing gasket is a "Soft Joint" and that it has a lot of compliance and it is easy to install and if I did it more than once every six months then I would likely just make it hand tight. When Oil filters were small metal cans I always installed by hand.

Take care

Paul


Last edited by p_gill on 22nd Jun 2021 3:41 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #409282 21st Jun 2021 10:35 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

My oil & filter is due soon, I'll use a torque wrench and see how much it needs to get it to the seat.

Post #409291 22nd Jun 2021 2:11 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4947

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

You always seem to need loads more torque to get the thing undone. I just do it "hand tight" Jules

Post #409298 22nd Jun 2021 6:31 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

Confirmed, the 25 n*m torque value is a safety stop.

As I tightened it, it stayed around 10-15 n*m until it seated on the housing, and only then did it sharply rise to 25+.

So if you seat the cap and no further, you're good. It's easy to feel when you get there.

Post #409954 9th Jul 2021 5:53 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1231

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Perfect

I use the Torque wrench

But in the future if its not handy I will install as directed

I appreciate the detail

Take care

Paul

Post #409969 10th Jul 2021 12:28 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Florence



Member Since: 17 Sep 2023
Location: Sussex
Posts: 9

United Kingdom 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Stornoway Grey
LR2 FL2 Oil filter torque; leak, oil pressure warning

Coming a little late to this thread (only 12 years), but I think relevant. Probably very obvious to more experienced among you, but there may be members who this hadn't occured to (like me!)...

Did annual oil filter and oil change last weekend (2012 Freelander 2, TD4).

Filter housing always worryingly difficult to unscrew. I think this must be due to swellig of O-ring with heat /oil?? Anyway, got it free , replaced cartridge and replaced housing without drama.

As the housing was Sooooo difficult to unscrew, I cleaned the thread and seating even more carefull than usual, made sure the new O-ring was correctly seated , and just nipped down the housing by hand (new O-ring as always). Access is almost impossible (why would you hide THE most frequent service items there ?!) and I have big hands to get into the limited space, so may not have got much traction. It wwent on quite easily for first few turns and clearly not cross threaded.

Once "nipped" and no further movement by hand, the housing was proud of the engine seating by about 2-3mm. To be more precise, there are 3 flanges around the circumference of the housing between the tread and te dome. Te O-ring sits between the 2 flanges nearest the engine. Just hand-tightened, I could JUST see the 2nd (middle) flange sitting in the metal rim of the engine seat, so O-ring only just inside the metal seating.

You won't be surprised to hear that on firing up after refilling, there was a slight leak from around the filter housing. Although tis leak was slight, it was associated with an intermitttent glowig of the ol pressure warning light on dashboard. This was fairly consistent at low revs / idling and less os when revved.

I got the spanner out and tightened the housing until the outermost flange was about to touch the metal seat. It was REALLY tight, but consistently so (not getting any more resistance with each turn), so I carried on, already worrying about how I was going to get it off next time, and whether I was going to damage the housing nut which is after all only plastic. I think it was about another 1.5 FULL turns with teh spanner over and above what I could manage by hand.

Both problems (leak and intermittent low oil pressure warning light) cured by tightening the housing more.

Note the housing is still not fully butted up against the metal seating: I think I could have done another 1/4 turn before it bedded down fully. There is NO risk of it gently unwinding before next change- it is so tight.

It seems the oil pressure one-way valve is seated in teh base of the seating and is sprung. I supsect the oil filter cartridge has to bepused up against this valve in the base for the valve to be effective at maintaining oil pressure. If the housing is not sufficiently screwed in, the cartridge within it may not push up against the valve with sufficient force for it to work properly, hence intermittent oil pressure warning light. MAHLE did a press release related to the valve sticking, which is referenced elsewhere in the forums

So, in answer to the comment about does it have to befully bedded down to the metal seat; No, it doesn't, but hand tight is probably not enough, unless you have very string hands and remove stome stuff (e.g. intercooler hose?) to get better access. But certainly if you can still see ANY of the 2nd flange on the housing, you have not tightened enough. Obvious really. Just a shame it's so tight to get off again once tightened down enough.

BTW, I can only get the filter housing off and tightened up again with a swivel head ratcet 27mm ring spanner. How can you get a torque wrench in there? The only ones I've seen are to attach to socket spanners, which I can't see fitting in there, together with the torque wrench head.

25NM sounds very high to me, espec with a plastic (albeit very toug) plastic nut.

Post #436150 9th Oct 2023 8:07 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2790

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Agree re the space available, there's no way a 27mm socket and torque wrench will fit onto my filter housing hence yhe reason for buying the 27mm flex headed ratchet spanner in the first place. Never considered torqueing an oil filter or housing, fitted enough of them over the years to know when they are tight enough. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #436151 9th Oct 2023 8:24 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 959

Australia 
Re: LR2 FL2 Oil filter torque; leak, oil pressure warning

Florence wrote:
Coming a little late to this thread (only 12 years), but I think relevant. Probably very obvious to more experienced among you, but there may be members who this hadn't occured to (like me!)...

Did annual oil filter and oil change last weekend (2012 Freelander 2, TD4).

Filter housing always worryingly difficult to unscrew. I think this must be due to swellig of O-ring with heat /oil?? Anyway, got it free , replaced cartridge and replaced housing without drama.

As the housing was Sooooo difficult to unscrew, I cleaned the thread and seating even more carefull than usual, made sure the new O-ring was correctly seated , and just nipped down the housing by hand (new O-ring as always). Access is almost impossible (why would you hide THE most frequent service items there ?!) and I have big hands to get into the limited space, so may not have got much traction. It wwent on quite easily for first few turns and clearly not cross threaded.

Once "nipped" and no further movement by hand, the housing was proud of the engine seating by about 2-3mm. To be more precise, there are 3 flanges around the circumference of the housing between the tread and te dome. Te O-ring sits between the 2 flanges nearest the engine. Just hand-tightened, I could JUST see the 2nd (middle) flange sitting in the metal rim of the engine seat, so O-ring only just inside the metal seating.

You won't be surprised to hear that on firing up after refilling, there was a slight leak from around the filter housing. Although tis leak was slight, it was associated with an intermitttent glowig of the ol pressure warning light on dashboard. This was fairly consistent at low revs / idling and less os when revved.

I got the spanner out and tightened the housing until the outermost flange was about to touch the metal seat. It was REALLY tight, but consistently so (not getting any more resistance with each turn), so I carried on, already worrying about how I was going to get it off next time, and whether I was going to damage the housing nut which is after all only plastic. I think it was about another 1.5 FULL turns with teh spanner over and above what I could manage by hand.

Both problems (leak and intermittent low oil pressure warning light) cured by tightening the housing more.

Note the housing is still not fully butted up against the metal seating: I think I could have done another 1/4 turn before it bedded down fully. There is NO risk of it gently unwinding before next change- it is so tight.

It seems the oil pressure one-way valve is seated in teh base of the seating and is sprung. I supsect the oil filter cartridge has to bepused up against this valve in the base for the valve to be effective at maintaining oil pressure. If the housing is not sufficiently screwed in, the cartridge within it may not push up against the valve with sufficient force for it to work properly, hence intermittent oil pressure warning light. MAHLE did a press release related to the valve sticking, which is referenced elsewhere in the forums

So, in answer to the comment about does it have to befully bedded down to the metal seat; No, it doesn't, but hand tight is probably not enough, unless you have very string hands and remove stome stuff (e.g. intercooler hose?) to get better access. But certainly if you can still see ANY of the 2nd flange on the housing, you have not tightened enough. Obvious really. Just a shame it's so tight to get off again once tightened down enough.

BTW, I can only get the filter housing off and tightened up again with a swivel head ratcet 27mm ring spanner. How can you get a torque wrench in there? The only ones I've seen are to attach to socket spanners, which I can't see fitting in there, together with the torque wrench head.

25NM sounds very high to me, espec with a plastic (albeit very toug) plastic nut.


This thread is about the i6 petrol engine filter, not the diesel. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #436153 9th Oct 2023 8:43 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Florence



Member Since: 17 Sep 2023
Location: Sussex
Posts: 9

United Kingdom 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Stornoway Grey

Ah. My bad. It sounds like same issues re tightening housing though? Is it better access on the I6 ?

Post #436155 9th Oct 2023 10:39 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2071

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

The I6 oil filter cap is the same design, just easier to get to, once the PS reservoir is moved aside.
The DW12 diesel filter is low on the block, so quite hard to access. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #436158 9th Oct 2023 11:02 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
Freel2.com RSS Feed - All Forums


Switch to Mobile site