This like an addendum to my problems last week battery wise. Anyway have fitted a new battery and fully charged it. My battery charger stops normal charging with it showing 13.2V, not keen of fast charging if no need. So this morning checked voltage some 16hrs later and is showing 12.4V. Seems quite a drop
for that time period. So connected ammeter to see drain. On locking car current draw is 4.2A then drops off over the space of a few minutes to 0.43A, car fully locked. This figure then stays steady. Now by my reckoning that over 10Ah per day. This seems a lot to me. I know the car is supposed to shut itself down
if not used, unsure when this starts. But at 10Ah a day will not take long to impact a 85Ah battery.
Even so I find the drop from 13.2V to 12.4V rather alarming over the 16 hr period.
Am I missing anything obvious?

Using a charger, the imediate voltage you read whether the charger is still fitted and charging or just removed is the charging voltage. the charging voltage tends to be higher than the voltage that the battery will then settle at (even when disconnected from any source of drain.), over a period of time.
To achieve a fully charged battery, the car delivers a charging voltage of 14.4V.

When I bought mine it had a dodgey battery (First showed itself when it couldn't maintain running the radio without wanting to shut it down after about 15mins) After I replaced it I started to double lock the car EVERY time I got out of it, as the systems shut down quicker, whether this has helped I don't know but, I'm still using the same battery I fitted seven years ago.

I have one of these plugged into the front power socket. (That way it powers off with the car)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/EBTOOLS-Charger-V...mp;sr=8-27

Are you double locking your car?
Do you have a Bluetooth odb2 device plugged in? If so, have you disconnected or shutdown the app you use to monitor it correctly. If that isn’t done with some Land Rovers the battery can be drained. (VOSA have issued a directive to MOT testers not to use OBD devices in Land Rovers.)
As said above, the drop from charging to rest isn’t alarming, it’s what it does from then on. A new battery can be faulty and the 10amps a day is way too high. It took the battery in SWMBO’s fiesta 15 days to drop 0.1 of a volt and that is a 9 year old battery.
The Ctek I use goes into maintenance mode when it thinks the battery is fully charged.
I use these on both of our cars. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R4...;_osacat=0

Yes always double lock. I realise the charging voltage is higher than it will settle down to. Am just wondering what is drawing the 0.4A as there is nothing on inside. I will put on a fast charge as see what it stops charging at with that.

Here are my results

March 2023 using Multimeter and Clamp
Battery is 850 CCA
Alternator is 180amp
Battery Draw in sleep state after 40 minutes 18 mA (0.018 on scale) max draw should be less than 23 mA
Under full load everything switched on. 136amps going in from Alternator
Volts 14.58 so Alternator is very good
Cranking Volts drop to 10.66
Battery voltage at rest is 12.6

Checking the battery voltage after unlocking the car and waking up all the ecu's will give your a lower reading. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Am thinking it might be the dashcam. Disconnecting the ammeter yesterday evening the dashcam sprang to life or shut down not sure which. This then repeated itself as I reconnected the battery. So I will disconnect the dashcam and see the current draw then.

Had stupidly wired dashcam into a constant live feed. Cannot remeber which feed I used on my last one.
Have now wired it into the tailgate/fuel flap fuse connection. Current now is only 0.3A somewhat better than 4.3A. Obviously if I switch it off after driving is finished problem never arises in first place.
Last weekend the fact it had been draining battery coupled with A/C going full tilt was enough to push battery over the top.

People deliberately connect their dashcams to a permanent live feed so that incidents can be recorded when the car is parked and shut down not realising that in effect the dashcam is never turned off. The so called ‘battery savers’ that they supply are set too low a voltage for a car like a Freelander 2. It would be better (but more expensive) to feed the dashcam from a separate battery which in turn can be charged by the car when it is running.

Mine has facailty to record if car is bumped. If that works I making assumption that dashcam internal battery will suffice for that. Though not sure how big a knock is supposed to activate it.

It's not difficult to run an auxiliary battery off the car (unpowered when the engine is off).

It's just not worth running accessories off the starter battery when the engine is off.

I have 4 x 26AH (due to space in the car) gel batteries, mostly to power the compressor fridge (about 15AH per 24 hours).

Don't quite do enough driving to charge auxiliary batteries, so plug in the Victron smart charger.

Also charge them via DC-DC chargers (have them in parallel in the boot) when engine is running.

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Bogart wrote:

Mine has facailty to record if car is bumped. If that works I making assumption that dashcam internal battery will suffice for that. Though not sure how big a knock is supposed to activate it.

They reckon 15 minutes. Enough to capture the event.

But the dash cam system is live all the time so as to monitor for the event and if it stores frames from before the event (as some do) it must be constantly recording and discarding images.

That is what I am unsure about. With the car locked the dashcam switched off there is no current drawn worth talking of. Unsure how it is supposed to start up and record in a quick enough fashion is beyond me.