Anyone had issues with no engine response to the throttle pedal when sat in traffic, pulling away gently from a stand still?

My sd4 has started to do this in the last few weeks, as an intermittent fault, happening maybe once to three or four time a day when driving for a few hours.

Sat at idle in queing traffic, in drive or command shift setting, and press throttle to pull away and nothing happens, engine stays at smooth idle. Press pedal to floor or cycle repeatedly and nothing happens. After 5 to 10 seconds it goes back to normal and drives normally.

Never seems to happen when driving along, only when pulling away.

Crank position sensor was changed for a LR part in 2021.

Any ideas please?

Mine does this lots always has done usually just after starting put it in park then in drive sorts it ourt.

Thanks, possibly a gearbox issue then?

I always thought it was yet another electrical glitch.

I have got used to anticipating when I am about to move and allowing my SD4 Auto to go into 'Creep' mode before applying throttle.
For example, at traffic lights I hold on footbrake (in gear) and release the brake on amber so that it steps off immediately when I apply throttle on green.
Similarly on roundabout I stop about a cars length short, so I can allow myself to anticipate and creep prior to joining traffic in a gap.
The SD4 does not do unexpected sudden velocity changes very well.

I have not experienced the OP's described problem of temporary acceleration loss. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Ive not had the no-response issue but would agree with the above that the SD4 isn’t a “foot to the floor and go” car - if I want to get going quickly, I get a much better response from the car if I press the accelerator gently and not far - the car jumps to life. Then push further. If I go from no foot on the accelerator to pushing to the floor it’s almost like the car sits thinking “are you sure this is what you want? Sure? Ok. Go”. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

I've had mine 7 years so used to the throttle lag by now, just have to judge it carefully at junctions !

Chuckalicious wrote:

Ive not had the no-response issue but would agree with the above that the SD4 isn’t a “foot to the floor and go” car - if I want to get going quickly, I get a much better response from the car if I press the accelerator gently and not far - the car jumps to life. Then push further. If I go from no foot on the accelerator to pushing to the floor it’s almost like the car sits thinking “are you sure this is what you want? Sure? Ok. Go”.

Chuckalicious wrote:

Ive not had the no-response issue but would agree with the above that the SD4 isn’t a “foot to the floor and go” car - if I want to get going quickly, I get a much better response from the car if I press the accelerator gently and not far - the car jumps to life. Then push further. If I go from no foot on the accelerator to pushing to the floor it’s almost like the car sits thinking “are you sure this is what you want? Sure? Ok. Go”.

I have had exactly the same problem that AndyPP describes, but only very occasionally. It last happened for the first time in over 6 months as I was pulling onto an A road. Luckily there was a good gap in the traffic. Normally when waiting at junctions/lights I go into Neitral and back to D, but I will try going to P instead. I did ask the service guy to look to see if there were any error codes, but none showed up.
I wondered when it happened mostly with near to full lock on, whether there was something in the engine management software to prevent rapid acceleration under near or full lock because of the danger of the vehicle becoming unstable? Does anyone think this may be a possibility or am I becoming paranoid about the "nannying" that vehicle manufacturers want to do always!!  Michelin Cross Climates are the way to go!
1971 Series 2A is for fun.
Disco 2 was a great car but had to make way for something more comfortable!
The Classic Vogue SE V8 was my favourite!

Never happened to me unless wheels were near enough straigh. Not on full lock.

It's now started losing power when pulling away, not just no response at all. Wondering if it's the turbo, like it won't build up revs.

Hi. First time posting here, so apols if this is resurrecting an old thread

Yesterday, my SD4 hesitated to the point of danger. I was pulling out of a side road when there was zero acceleration. The car was in drive. It could only manage to creep along. I caused a little bit of chaos in our village. I managed to pull over and the car would not engage any gear other than reverse. I left it for a couple of hours and on my return it drove fine. Command shift kids not work either. I have read and it seems some people had a similar issue but nothing this severe.

Has anyone else been in this position and has anyone found the cause? No codes on my Carly or autel readers.

Any help much appreciated 👍🏼

Openroad Please can you fill in your profile with FL2 Model, etc.

Please can you expand on the not selecting gears bit, I take it your FL2 is an Auto, so are you saying you have problems moving into 'Drive'.

Otherwise your symptoms seem to be 'Limp Home', but you normally get some indication.

Without further details I would suggest you look at Air Intake/Boost problems - Split Turbo Pipes, Turbo Actuator, etc.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33502.ht...perfomance FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Gilly's Boy wrote:

I have had exactly the same problem that AndyPP describes, but only very occasionally. It last happened for the first time in over 6 months as I was pulling onto an A road. Luckily there was a good gap in the traffic. Normally when waiting at junctions/lights I go into Neitral and back to D, but I will try going to P instead. I did ask the service guy to look to see if there were any error codes, but none showed up.

I changed the crank position sensor on mine last week and it has changed the symptoms but not cured it.

Instead on no throttle response at all it is now as you describe, with stuttering and no power when throttle is pressed. Only happens intermittently, and command shift is not affected.

Starting to sound like a gearbox issue?