ok so my 82yr old dads Freeleander 2 , 2007 is playing up,
3 amigos come on intermittently, but can suddenly go off whilst stood.so I am on with checking each abs sensor and hopefully catch the faulty one, and also noticed the speedo stopped working when they lit up,is this linked to a specific abs sensor?
had boost issues, but managed to find a split in the lower boost, so thats on order.
Noticed the car didnt shut down straight away ,had to hold the off button on the dash.its never had a throttle body,and wondered if this could also effect the car
I did wonder battery(4yrs old) could also be causing these intermittent faults,did the extra neg to starter years ago ,but may check neg to body cable.its starts ok thought,but wondered if voltage being dragged down could cause sensor issues
as i mention will try get some codes out of it when it faults again
any clues or input very welcome

If the faults are random, then a new battery is worth trying, although as the weather is getting warmer that's less likely. (normally the forum gets a spate of unexplained random faults/non starts in the autumn as the mornings cool)

But 12v batteries are relatively cheap and straightforward. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

i may replace the battery /check neg as you mentioned. i hope the boost pipe sorts the majority of the faults,then will have to check the wheel speed sensors one at a time.looks like i am going to be busy! i was hoping that just one sensor fed the speedo,is this not the case?

I think that the speedo signal is generated within the ABS Control Unit.
Just a thought - if your voltage power supplies are iffy during starting (due to a low capacity battery), then it affects the initialisation of the various control units throughout the FL2 giving random faults - including ABS, Traction, Etc.

I would hold my fire until a new battery has been fitted unless you have proof that another fault definitely exists. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I would do exactly as IanMetro has suggested. While the old battery is out, do a hard battery reset in the interim before putting in the new battery.

will do the battery and boost pipe then see what happens
i think when cranking it dropped to 9.6V, sits at 12.2V and 14.0V running ,so charging ok

MotionInc wrote:

I would do exactly as IanMetro has suggested. While the old battery is out, do a hard battery reset in the interim before putting in the new battery.

Once the old battery is out, touch the positive cable to the negative cable for about 30 seconds (vehicle cables). You can search it in the search bar. If you don't know anything about vehicles and batteries, get someone who does to help.

cheers ,i can do that no problem

boost pipe fitting tomorrow, will look at the abs issue later, he now reports it wouldn't turn off the other day,had to disconnect the neg on the battery any ideas? does the thorttle body shut it down?

Yes, it should. But the throttle body is prone to carbon buildup and as it’s open while running, it’s probably stuck open.

So boost pipes fitted , fun job . Throttle body stripped and CB leaned , no sticking or carbon and all teeth perfect , just full of oil so cleaned it out . Built back up cleared faults but one remained p0113 air intact sensor so will replace this . Car ran great no dash lights yet but will see how it goes , what could cause the p0113 code