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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear brake pad & disc change for MY2013 cars with EPB
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Winslet



Member Since: 01 Oct 2013
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 
Rear brake pad & disc change for MY2013 cars with EPB

Hi

Just completed the above and I thought I'd bring together the procedure into one post to share my experience - some of the below is posted elsewhere, but I still had some unanswered questions.

For MY2013 cars the rear discs and pads are different from earlier cars, and some online parts retailers list the incorrect part numbers - the correct number for the discs is LR039935 and pads LR043285.

First you need to put the electronic parking brake/EPB into service mode.

With the front wheels chocked and the car in park, turn the ignition on without starting the engine (foot off the clutch or brake pedal depending on whether manual or automatic) then:

1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the release/down position

2. Wait 2 seconds

3. Whilst still holding the parking brake switch, press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open position.

4. Wait 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition off and on again immediately whilst still pushing on the parking brake button and with your foot fully on the accelerator pedal.

6. You will hear the brake motors activate for a while. An audible noise will confirm service mode, it will also be displayed on the dashboard as below:



Switch the ignition off.

The wheel can then be removed and the calliper unbolted - this needs 13 and 15mm spanners - the 15mm one holds the sliding bolt from turning and the 13mm undoes the bolt holding the calliper on - one at the top and one at the bottom. The calliper can then be slid out and moved to the side.



The pads can then be removed along with the clips - silver one at the top and gold at the bottom.

To remove the disc, the calliper carrier needs unbolting - two 15mm bolts at the rear and the disc can then be taken off using a T45 Torx bit.



It takes about 15 minutes to get to this point, but to do a more thorough job I then cleaned up the calliper, carrier, hub, wheel arches, suspension and wheel whilst I had access...

New disc on, using a smear of copper grease on mating surfaces:



In good old Haynes manual style, reassembly is the reverse of removal, with the exception of retracting the piston to accept the new pads. The piston just needs to be pushed back - it doesn't need winding or turning or any special tool. I temporarily remounted it to aid handling and used a small block of wood and a long screwdriver to gently lever/push it back.

Old:



New:



Job done!

Apologies for the photos swapping from driver to passenger side - I took various photos during the process. The procedure the same for both sides!

To take the EPB out of service mode:

1. Once more with the ignition on but engine not started, lift and hold the parking brake switch in the apply/on position

2. Wait 2 seconds

3. Whilst still lifting the parking brake switch, press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open position

4. Wait 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition off and on again immediately whilst still pushing on the parking brake button and with your foot fully on the accelerator pedal.

The brake motors will re-engage.

I have to say I found the job much easier than on the earlier models - no issues with the disc/drum removal or binding handbrake shoes/moving parts. The EPB system makes it much simpler and straightforward.

I hope the above helps anyone looking at doing this job themselves. 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!

Post #304374 12th Aug 2016 9:49 am
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V40TC



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 301

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Indus Silver

superb write up many thanks

Post #304379 12th Aug 2016 10:12 am
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
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United Kingdom 

excellant write up, just wish i had the know how to do it myself Big Cry Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #304380 12th Aug 2016 10:30 am
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
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United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

A Main Stealer will want hundreds of pounds in labour for this simple job.

Did you replace any of the mounting bolts or use any Locktite on reassembly as spring washers seem to be no longer in vogue in the car trade ? Idea FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #304381 12th Aug 2016 10:32 am
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Deano64



Member Since: 16 Aug 2013
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 602

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Indeed - 1 hrs labour just for the pads changing at my dealer. 10% discount applied when I questioned it, but still ridiculous - it was in for service and MOT as well so now have to get a bank loan !!!

Post #304383 12th Aug 2016 11:27 am
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westville



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United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Fuji White

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20412.html No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Post #304391 12th Aug 2016 12:32 pm
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MartynB



Member Since: 08 Aug 2011
Location: Currently Rootless !
Posts: 1780

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

Deano64 wrote:
Indeed - 1 hrs labour just for the pads changing at my dealer. 10% discount applied when I questioned it, but still ridiculous - it was in for service and MOT as well so now have to get a bank loan !!!


To be fair, wheels off, , pads out, clean up calipers , (could be nothing of a job, could be corroded and filthy.) grease sliding pins as necessary , check fluid level as pistons are pushed back. new pads in , reassemble, wheels back on.

Sounds like an hour isn't too bad. What is the problem of course is the hourly rate and and the marked up price you get charged for the pads. Certainly on the fronts the brakes are bog standard single pot Ford used on millions of vehicles, and anybody from the LR main dealer down to a one man band should be capable of fitting them, even KwikFit Rolling with laughter

Given that a set of quality pads can be had for £40 I would have thought it would be pretty easy to get the pads changed by a good mechanic for £50 or£ 60 in labour. 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Post #304406 12th Aug 2016 4:37 pm
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Winslet



Member Since: 01 Oct 2013
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 

Yorky Bob wrote:
A Main Stealer will want hundreds of pounds in labour for this simple job.

Did you replace any of the mounting bolts or use any Locktite on reassembly as spring washers seem to be no longer in vogue in the car trade ? Idea


Hi - I didn't replace any bolts or use Locktite - the original dry applied stuff remained largely intact and the bolts are still stiff when inserting and tightening.

In terms of the other comments about labour time for the job - the second set took much less time than the first, as I had worked out what to do - if you didn't bother to clean everything up as you went - and the pads should come with replacement silver/gold metal plates as well, which serve as disposable holders for the pads to move back and forth on, there is very little in the way of cleaning to do unless desired - so labour is kept to a minimum. 30 minutes max with practice (and access to full garage tools)? 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!

Post #304425 12th Aug 2016 8:44 pm
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Deano64



Member Since: 16 Aug 2013
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 602

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

MartynB wrote:
Deano64 wrote:
Indeed - 1 hrs labour just for the pads changing at my dealer. 10% discount applied when I questioned it, but still ridiculous - it was in for service and MOT as well so now have to get a bank loan !!!


To be fair, wheels off, , pads out, clean up calipers , (could be nothing of a job, could be corroded and filthy.) grease sliding pins as necessary , check fluid level as pistons are pushed back. new pads in , reassemble, wheels back on.

Sounds like an hour isn't too bad. What is the problem of course is the hourly rate and and the marked up price you get charged for the pads. Certainly on the fronts the brakes are bog standard single pot Ford used on millions of vehicles, and anybody from the LR main dealer down to a one man band should be capable of fitting them, even KwikFit Rolling with laughter

Given that a set of quality pads can be had for £40 I would have thought it would be pretty easy to get the pads changed by a good mechanic for £50 or£ 60 in labour.


Wheels already off as part of service, brake fluid changed as part of service (chargeable), car cleaned weekly , including wheels, so doesn't get that much chance to corrode. So still think over the top. Pads were about £50, so not too bad. First set were 70% worn after 300000 miles

Post #304427 12th Aug 2016 9:19 pm
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MartynB



Member Since: 08 Aug 2011
Location: Currently Rootless !
Posts: 1780

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

I suppose that when you look at the overheads of running a dealership the hourly labour rates have to be eyewatering ! Plus I'm sure they charge for jobs in standard units of time set by the manufacturer not the actual time the technician spends on the job. They don't get those lovely glass and chrome palaces with leather couches and cappuccino machines by offering good deals to the customers Rolling with laughter 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Post #304436 13th Aug 2016 8:03 am
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Deano64



Member Since: 16 Aug 2013
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 602

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Indeed, ...and the showroom is immaculate and shiny! They're moving premises as well so I guess I was subsidising the move. Also I meant 30000 miles in last post!

Post #304438 13th Aug 2016 8:28 am
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MartynB



Member Since: 08 Aug 2011
Location: Currently Rootless !
Posts: 1780

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

I'm sure the rear diff bearing is going in the Freelander, which is a disgrace at 48000 miles but that's another story. It will not be going anywhere near a main dealer. Depending on where is more convenient for me nearer the time. it will be going to Green Oval near IKEA, or Stonelake in Halifax. Both of those places have given me excellent service. Stonelake are the Original Guys from Copley before Perry's took over (and subsequently Rybrook).

Since l stopped working Very Happy Very Happy and I have the time I'm servicing my own brakes now. 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Post #304456 13th Aug 2016 3:14 pm
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Archery Guy



Member Since: 18 Dec 2019
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1

England 2014 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Manual Firenze Red

Thanks for this simple to follow guide. Completed task without drama.

Post #383032 22nd Dec 2019 10:16 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5001

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Deano64 wrote:
First set were 70% worn after 300000 miles


You dont brake very often then Laughing Jules

Post #383047 22nd Dec 2019 3:43 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5001

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

MartynB wrote:
I'm sure the rear diff bearing is going in the Freelander, which is a disgrace at 48000 miles.


Bell Engineering is the place for diff and haldex issues . Jules

Post #383048 22nd Dec 2019 3:46 pm
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