Excellent post

Thanks for sharing the details

I am going to try this on my S80 with EPB, my LR2 has the drum style parking brake

Thanks

Paul

Awesome write up, thanks. No EPB for me but it's good to know the routine to get the EPB into service mode.

Just a note to any using this thread as a primer for a rear brake job - the screw retaining the disc to the hub is a T50 - NOT a T45 as in the OP's post. A T45 may work ok I guess (mine were not tight) but the correct size is definitely a T50. 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Great write-up thanks very much.

I recently had an advisory during MOT for rear discs and pads so will be doing this soon. Just wanted to ask which brand discs and pads are the preferred choice?

RobP wrote:

I recently had an advisory during MOT for rear discs and pads so will be doing this soon. Just wanted to ask which brand discs and pads are the preferred choice?

RobP wrote:

I recently had an advisory during MOT for rear discs and pads so will be doing this soon. Just wanted to ask which brand discs and pads are the preferred choice?

Quote:

EBC Brakes are made in one of its two specialist factories in the UK and USA. The majority of EBC brake discs or brake rotors are also made in the UK.

Excellent write up!
Just done this job on wife’s Evoque which has the same brakes…stealers wanted £1200 for front and back disc replacement…

Did it slowly in less than an hour a side for less than £250 using Meyle pads and discs which were excellent and top quality which came with new clips, torx bolts etc from Advanced Factors…

Really easy to do…. I used a large pair of water pump pliers to push the pistons back once put the brakes in maintenance mode.
Careful if you do this as the rear of the electric callipers are plastic but there is a metal lug you can use on the side.

Here is what I used to compress the piston on the S80 with the Electric Parking Brake

This is similar to what I used on mine (there are more adapters in my kit), I already had it as my Honda's rear calipers/pistons need rewinding rather than forcing straight back (this damages them) about 20 quid from ebay


 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Once the brake pads are removed before removing the caliper bolts I simply push the pistons back evenly with a tyre lever, no special tools needed ! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

Some years ago, I managed to flip the seals in the master cylinder on an Escort whilst changing the pads. I now always clamp the flexi pipe with a designated plastic tool, and crack the calliper bleed nipple. Much less force required to push the piston in ( though I do have a kit as shown above ), and no chance of damaging the seals.

ReggiePerrin wrote:

RobP wrote:

I recently had an advisory during MOT for rear discs and pads so will be doing this soon. Just wanted to ask which brand discs and pads are the preferred choice?

On both my cars, I used Land Rover brake parts but aside from that…

… On the current car, two of the four disc retaining screws were problematic in so far as the heads appeared to be made of jelly. One I managed to get out with a struggle but the other, I had to drill out. (The other two were perfectly ok).

Might be worth adding a couple of LR002080 or equivalent to your discs and pads order.

Thanks for that info

p_gill wrote:

RobP wrote:

I recently had an advisory during MOT for rear discs and pads so will be doing this soon. Just wanted to ask which brand discs and pads are the preferred choice?

Rob,

For me the best choice of pads is EBC Greenstuff™ – 6000 Series – 4×4 (SUV and Light Truck) Brake Pad

As for the Rotors I typically just but from a reputable manufacturer. (EBC sells quality rotors as well if you like)

I really like this part

Quote:

EBC Brakes are made in one of its two specialist factories in the UK and USA. The majority of EBC brake discs or brake rotors are also made in the UK.

Take care

Paul

Grimdog wrote:

Some years ago, I managed to flip the seals in the master cylinder on an Escort whilst changing the pads. I now always clamp the flexi pipe with a designated plastic tool, and crack the calliper bleed nipple. Much less force required to push the piston in ( though I do have a kit as shown above ), and no chance of damaging the seals.

I always crack open the bleed nipple and attach a drain tube before pushing back the piston so that:
1) much less force required to push back the piston
2) much less chance of everting a seal
3) old fluid and crap doesn't go back into the system
4) no chance of over flowing the master cylinder
5) you know the bleed nipples are not corroded up solid Jules