Hello, I'm from Germany and I'm a new member here in the forum. It's very difficult for me to get help because the Freelander is rarely driven here.

I'm having trouble with my car, a 2.2 liter diesel, 2011 facelift with a manual gearbox.

The car sometimes doesn't want to drive properly, but then it runs perfectly again. The error simply cannot be localized or narrowed down.

Symptoms:
- poor and delayed throttle response when accelerating
- When coasting, it sometimes feels like braking, as if someone is holding the car or a heavy trailer is attached
- Vibration when driving at low speed, mirrors flicker and all loose parts in the interior then rattle
- When stationary, when the engine is warm, the engine "jumps or saws".
- Loud intake noise
- Turbo whistles when accelerating
- Increased fuel consumption, over 10 liters instead of the previously constant 8.2

So far it has been done:

- Complete diagnosis of ALL parameters by a specialist workshop with a long test drive (motorway, country road, city). Injectors, turbo pressure, DPF saturation, differential pressure, LMM, EGR, etc. ALL VALUES OK.
- All engine mounts / rubbers new
- All Turbo hoses
- Major inspection with all filters​
- Mass air flow sensor, pressure sensors new
- Drive belt and tensioner

Optical control of most connections and cables. But where to start looking?

Last week I did a new test procedure. I did the "Turbo, EGR Test" with SDD JLR and failed. Result:




IDLE SPEED TEST RESULT PRIMARY CAUSE/ CONCERN REA/ Vanes stuck :

The turbo REA has moved but is not within the set limits, do not replace. Please investigate other possible causes, such as induction system leaks or sticking REA arm.

- Visual check of REA connector and actuator arm condition:
- Check the actuator arm for signs of corrosion and ease of movement.
- Check the connectors are seated correctly.
- Check for damage to connectors and wiring harness.
- Check for any foreign object/water ingress.
- Rectify faults as required.

But: No error codes, no warning lights, no display "reduced performance" or "emergency operation".

Thank you for your tips!

What it says in red at the end of your post. Have you manually checked that the variable vanes in the turbo are moving freely?

Hello, and welcome to the forum.

That sounds frustrating. Have you tried an air path calibration after replacing the MAF? Sometimes our repairs don't seem to work when logically we feel they should (for example, replacing an obviously broken part with a known good part) because the new part hasn't been calibrated to work with the other parts of the system.

Here's some advice from alex_pescaru and Nodge68:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic27095.html

Your diagnostic error codes could be a symptom of stuck/sticking vane actuation so that's worth investigating, but I would have thought that would generate an error code in real time. If you do decide to test it, I think it's best to disconnect the arm from the sensor first so you are only dealing with the mechanical parts and not damaging the sensor.

Please keep us informed, and we can all learn together.

Good morning,

Thanks for your tips!

I will try to disconnect the rea connector and move the blades. However, I am also of the opinion that there should be an error code if it gets stuck?

I haven't done an airway calibration yet. I also wanted to remove the throttle body. I redid the MAP sensor there too and it seems like everything is black with sticky soot.

But where else could the fine vibrations come from? As soon as I step on the clutch, the car rolls very easily. If I let go of it again, there are subtle vibrations throughout the car.

Many thanks for your help in advance!

Pages 1024 to 1031 of the online LR Manual - see https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html - explain how to check and free the actuator rod.

Thank you! I found the manual!

I hope to be able to do the work under the car lying on my back.

Question: Which battery charger do you use? In the case of extensive diagnosis, a charger should be connected so that the voltage does not drop below 12.5V.

Land Rover says 25A, better 50A. But such devices cost 500€/£ and more...

I should have credited Forum member jules with where to find the explanation in a three thousand page manual.

When using SDD in the past I used a Ring 12A charger - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RCB312 - and all was well. I’m not recommending it, mind you, just saying that it was sufficient for my needs.

My thread showing my battery charger, I find it very good and versatile.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.ht...ry+charger

Click image to enlarge

Hoennetaler wrote:

Good morning,

Thanks for your tips!

I will try to disconnect the rea connector and move the blades. However, I am also of the opinion that there should be an error code if it gets stuck?

I haven't done an airway calibration yet. I also wanted to remove the throttle body. I redid the MAP sensor there too and it seems like everything is black with sticky soot.

But where else could the fine vibrations come from? As soon as I step on the clutch, the car rolls very easily. If I let go of it again, there are subtle vibrations throughout the car.

Many thanks for your help in advance!

Hi, thanks a lot for your support!

The fact that a calibration is required every time a sensor is replaced is new to me. Will do as soon as Amazon sends me a 12V charger.

Today I installed a new diesel filter and bled it with a hand pump according to the instructions. Some air was probably still present, but has now disappeared from the system.

Then I removed and cleaned the throttle body, the EGR tube was very full of soot. I cleaned this too. But I ordered an EGR plate with a hole, which I will install later.

Tomorrow I'll examine the turbo and the blades. I will also replace the MAP sensor on the intercooler and the crankshaft sensor.

I will keep you up to date!

PS: The over-run clutch on the alternator is tested and free, also the pulleys. The belt and tensioner are new.




Last edited by Hoennetaler on 18th Aug 2023 1:51 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Today I checked the turbocharger. The wings are free, but I moved the REA-arm about 20-30 times up and down. Then grease the connections with high-temperature grease.

Then I removed the crankshaft sensor, cleaned it and checked the connections for damage.

And lastly I installed a new MAP sensor on the intercooler.

As a final work I did a test drive and performed the air path calibration. Everything OK.

The car is definitely smoother, pulls more easily and actually there is nothing to complain about.

Unfortunately, this has happened more often in the past, so I'm cautiously optimistic.

I drove 150km today, highway, country road and city.

None of the repairs I've done in the past few weeks have helped

The car runs rough, vibrates, has no real power. As soon as I stop at the traffic light, the car starts to jump. The warmer the engine gets, the worse it gets.

It's a shame because I really like the car. But I think I will sell it for export at a big loss. I've spent so many hours troubleshooting and invested a lot of money, unfortunately without success.

That’s a shame but sometimes you just have to cut the thing free. I’ve done it in the past then found out a month later the guy who bought it sorted it out for about £50 that’s all the info I got. Ho and indeed hum.

I have exactly the same fear!

Any loose cable or hose and the next one is happy. But who can I ask? We have a Land Rover dealer here, but they charge €160 an hour...

I bought a 15A charger today. Is there anything else I could check with JLR SDD, e.g. the injectors, etc...?

Oh man, that's tough! You have done so much work and learned a lot in the last months, and you seem to have your head screwed on right: I can't think of anything I would have done differently, and you have approached it with logic and rigor. So frustrating when you do the right things but get the wrong result.

I recall a similar situation in the 90's with a works Mitsubishi Lancer that was in the running for the Australian Rally Championship. All the resources in the world and it would still randomly misbehave: turned out to be a crushed wiring harness that led to the rear of the car, but there was no external sign of damage. Couple of wires inside were shorting, sometimes.

At this point I think I would be looking for another set of eyes on it, someone to talk with, maybe an independent LR specialist or enthusiast, because I know sometimes we lose our perspective when we're this deep into a project; can't see the forest for the trees sort of thing. I've fixed a few that were new to me just because I didn't have the weight of history pushing me into strange places, and my fresh eyes saw odd things that had been accepted as normal.