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Valencia46



Member Since: 09 Apr 2023
Location: Valencia
Posts: 10

Spain 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Aintree Green

Something went wrong here... Laughing

Post #431621 10th Apr 2023 5:29 am
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3108

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

I can't comment on whether LR (or any other maker) design the car to be easily maintained or modified, but I suspect not. From my experience most design is mainly influenced by ease and cost of manufacture.

The Dealer did drop my fuel tank to repair wiring (many years ago on XS).

PS - My Experience - As part of my career, (1980s) I was a regional field support engineer for a large computer firm. A new mainframe needed some corrective modifications, but we found that it was almost impossible to get into the wiring and carry out the factory instructions in anything approaching the time given.
I reported our findings back to the factory, including my complaint that it seemed that they must have constructed most of the machine around the 'card-frame' after they had wired it.
As a reply it was suggested that I contact a couple of other support engineers from other regions and arrange of visit for a couple of weeks to observe/build the said Processing Cabinet.
Well, we went and built (under supervision) the Cabinet.
I can confirm that the first unit mounted was the Card Frame, around which we spent the next few days placing other units and ancillaries.
Although I found it very interesting in the factory, with it's robotic trollies and computerised (hidden in roof) stores system, I think I can confirm that makers worry more about the cost/convenience of producing, than they do about maintaining. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Post #431626 10th Apr 2023 9:23 am
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BossBob



Member Since: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 1370

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Baltic Blue

Not just cars and computers. When my house was built back in the 60’s they laid the concrete plinth and foundations then added the hot air central heating unit, then proceeded to build the house and it’s heating ducts around it!

Post #431628 10th Apr 2023 9:28 am
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Valencia46



Member Since: 09 Apr 2023
Location: Valencia
Posts: 10

Spain 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Aintree Green

IanMetro wrote:
I can't comment on whether LR (or any other maker) design the car to be easily maintained or modified, but I suspect not. From my experience most design is mainly influenced by ease and cost of manufacture.


I suspect them to have dealer tricks so you are dependent on them and cannot do as much yourself as one would like. Laughing
Our other car is a more recent VW model and fully depending on dealer computers. I know I am the one who bought it but I hate them for it. Next car will be a classic from mercedes way before board computers airbags and other nonsense was introduced. What it doesn't have doesn't brake either is my idea now. The wife will probably sputter a little but I take that for what it is. ( better she than the car...) Laughing For myself I will try to get my hands on a disco 1 again, I loved that car and still regret selling it.

But I'll guess we are dwelling a bit off topic here.. Whistle


Last edited by Valencia46 on 5th May 2023 6:46 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #431643 10th Apr 2023 5:50 pm
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gasman



Member Since: 02 May 2013
Location: Tyneside
Posts: 888

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

I did the repair on the sender unit in my tank some years back. You have to remove the tank to remove the sender unit as the access panel under the back seat is too small and off centre.
You could always butcher the floor as some have done if you want a short cut. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Post #431650 10th Apr 2023 9:37 pm
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Valencia46



Member Since: 09 Apr 2023
Location: Valencia
Posts: 10

Spain 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Aintree Green

Quote:
You could always butcher the floor as some have done if you want a short cut.


Shocked

I very well know I do not own one of the most beautiful freelanders out here, and I'm usualy not afraid to drill a hole into something for additional lightning or whatever

But "butchering the floor" to change a filter....??? Mmmm not sure about that.

I find the car makes enough noise as it is. Not being able to close another hole after the works will only add to the noise level when driving i'll guess.

--I blew the fuel line with the compressor and filled it up. For now its good. Will keep fuel level above 50% for the moment as that seems to work for now. At least until our other car is out of repairs Confused

Will order filter and drop the tank when our 2nd car is back. Seems a good moment to also clean the tank. During use on works and farm I've put fuel in it from Jerrycans more than one would like.

Will update later on experiences on troubleshooting.

Thanks for all input Thumbs Up

Post #431745 14th Apr 2023 3:57 pm
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Valencia46



Member Since: 09 Apr 2023
Location: Valencia
Posts: 10

Spain 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Aintree Green

Okay I'm officially confused now... Confused

Have been reading up on the fuel system of the Freelander and I get different info now or I'm just mixing things up. In posts before people talk about a low pressure pump in the tank. And later on the internet I'm reading this is changed after 2002, and it is since then a pump in the wheel arc of the rear right wheel.

So as far as I know I have a 2007 Freelander (L359) 2.2 TD4 (112kW - 152bhp)

When it is true that it is in the wheel arc , what did I see under the backseat then??

Also, I ordered a fuel filter - the big pot for in the engine compartment-, but both stories indicate a second filter unit in or on that low pressure pump, - either in the tank or behind the wheel.
But every website I go to for parts only indicate the big fuel filter under the bonnet. Not one parts site offered a second (pre-)filter. The one that should be changed every 60K miles to save your fuel pump from working to hard and wearing out to fast.

Can somebody please enlighten me? I will take the rear wheel off tomorrow to have a look behind it.
But I guess I'm not sure any more what to look for..

A link to that fuel-pump filter would be nice by the way Rolling with laughter

Post #432292 5th May 2023 8:36 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2071

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

The Freelander 1 (L314) has a pump in the tank, or under the RH rear wheel arch, or in the engine bay depending on year of manufacture.
However the Freelander 2 (L359) is a completely different vehicle and has a fuel pump in the tank, which simply passes fuel from one side of the tank to the other. The fuel on this model is delivered to the engine via an engine driven pump which is part of the HP pump. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #432295 5th May 2023 9:14 pm
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Andy131



Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2175

United Kingdom 

As the previous poster has pointed out, the Freelander 1 had four different engines with differing fuel system layouts. And yes one of them did have a fuel pump under the wheel arch.

The Freelander 2 bears no resemblance to the first generation car - it's like comparing a Disco1 to a Disco 3.
The fuel tank is a plastic saddle tank design, so has two fuel gauges and a transfer pump that transfers fuel from the dead side on the drivers left to the active side on the right. Should the transfer pump die or it's associated fuel gauge die you lose access to the fuel on that side (40% ?).

The fuel is sucked from the active side by the fuel pump driven by the camshaft - cheap and nasty design as the slightest leak (or an empty fuel filter) means that it hasn't a hope of dragging fuel through.

If keeping above 50% means that the car works, then it does suggest that the fuel isn't being transferred from the left to the right side.

Many many moons ago one of the fuel senders died on mine, I spent a lot of time trying to get the fuel sender and pump out without taking the tank off. Eventually gave up and took the tank off, checked what was needed, put it all back together (needed the car for work), ordered the parts and did it all again the next weekend. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #432319 6th May 2023 6:00 pm
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Valencia46



Member Since: 09 Apr 2023
Location: Valencia
Posts: 10

Spain 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Aintree Green

Nodge68 wrote:

However the Freelander 2 (L359) is a completely different vehicle and has a fuel pump in the tank, which simply passes fuel from one side of the tank to the other.


Okay Clear. So I was mixing things up....


Andy131 wrote:

The fuel tank is a plastic saddle tank design, so has two fuel gauges and a transfer pump that transfers fuel from the dead side on the drivers left to the active side on the right. Should the transfer pump die or it's associated fuel gauge die you lose access to the fuel on that side (40% ?).

If keeping above 50% means that the car works, then it does suggest that the fuel isn't being transferred from the left to the right side.


Pumps seem to work fine. I'm personally guessing there is sludge or alga in the tank. That's why I wanted to keep the fuel level up - to avoid sucking up sludge or alga or what ever this 10% bio-shyte causes.

Andy131 wrote:

The fuel is sucked from the active side by the fuel pump driven by the camshaft - cheap and nasty design as the slightest leak (or an empty fuel filter) means that it hasn't a hope of dragging fuel through.

That would mean the pumps are not working properly or there is a vacuum leak. Then it would turn of (brake down actually) or was practically un-driveable, not just stutter.

I don't have that. It stutters, sometimes more than others, but it drives good otherwise.
Last time ( just 2 months ago - give or take) I changed the fuel filter after experiencing the same issue -for a long time already, but wasn't driving it to much-.
Then the problem was solved, until we almost had it run empty - Well the needle was touching the red zone on the gauge.

But the car didn't stutter any more. after changing filters.
So that is why I suspect sludge in the tank. and that that has clogged up the filter, Again.
In my welcome post I wrote that the car was on a "second home" house and was parked in the shade for 10 to 11 months for the year, not being used.

Today's bio fuel doesn't really like to be just sitting in the tank. It grows bacteria and forms alga. I've seen this when I was servicing dewatering pumps who where on depots for months before moved to projects. The head mechanic told me this was a problem since the 10% bio in fuel was introduced.

Or can it mean the low pressure pump is tired.? So it will suck fuel through the new (clean) filter, but not enough when its a little cogged up?

Well I ordered a new fuel filter and gonna drop the fuel tank next weekend.
Bur is there no filter in or right before/after the low pressure pump/ transfer pump?

Don't want to end up like Andy131 doing it all twice because i don't have all the parts...

Thanks @Nodge68 and @Andy131 for the replies.

Post #432322 6th May 2023 8:13 pm
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