It may be a bit late for this advice, but I was always taught that if any electronics get wet, then immediately remove power.


Then, take any covers off, and use a gentle heat source (hair drier) to drive out any moisture.

Carefully apply power, whilst observing circuit board, then replace covers.

I do not use a power washer any where near my car as it drives water into places that normal washing does not reach.

Car makers go to great lengths to avoid corrosion, so I don't want to stress test how good they are, plus water and electronics rarely mix well. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 12th Aug 2022 9:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Yes I also agree with Lightwater regarding the drying out procedure, bit of a coincidence with the fault saying 100%, the egr electrical connector is slightly awkward to access, but it’s worth a try to dry out the plug etc, or even check for corrosion, I would not use a hot air gun as the heat can be severe on nylon plugs and cables, a hair dryer is far better and this over warm Sun too.
Disconnect the battery and dry everything you can access, even do a power reset, that may zero out the egr issue?

A thought came to mind but possibly a lump of greasy dirt has fouled the crank sensor as we don’t know the state of the muck under the bonnet before you washed it, is the sump protector fitted? Maybe the damp cannot diminish with the guard on,
Painstaking work though I’m just concerned about the egr issue, process of checking everything unfortunately.

The best way to dry anything out is by moving a massove volume of air over or through for a long period of time in the presence of some ambient heat . That’s how you dry flooded houses and carpets etc . Given the summer temperatures , I’d rent an air mover from a tool hire place ( dead cheap ) pop the bonnet , disconnect connectors ( make a list to tick off on reconnection ) , remove covers from anything , then run the blower under the car for 24 hours . You could make cardboard baffles to direct flow if necessary . Then reassemble and clean and check all the fuses and connectors as the guys above have mentioned . I did this to my partners Clio which flooded in a car wash as the washer well vent was gunged up . By great design the main loom connector was hidden well away in a flood able depression in the near side cill . 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Don't use a hot air gun unless you use it as a temporary space heater mounted extremely safely out the way.

I have a Bosch hot air gun fully adjustable in 10°C steps up to 630°C & used it to solder 175amp Anderson plugs.


A few photos here behind the first firewall. You have to take off the windscreen wiper to get in there. Mark position of wipers on windscreen with a bit of masking tape for positioning. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33026-54.html Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Egr 100% ? Is that an error code or is it a reading from live data. If it's the latter probably just means the egr is 100% closed and nothing to do with your issue. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Robert wrote:

No faults code. All conectors cleared.

Only advice I can give you don’t ever ever power wash a car engine

hi I checked the fuel system today. The rear pump does not deliver fuel to the filter. Good fuse. What should I check next?

The fuel tank is a saddle design, so the pump transfers fuel from the left side to the right side where the fuel pickup is - it does not pump fuel up to the engine.

The high pressure fuel pump sucks fuel through the filter from the tank, any air leak and you are stuffed, crack a fuel line to check for fuel, crank the engine (drawing in air) and you are stuffed, it will need to be primed using a bulb type primer.

When changing the fuel filter, fill it with fuel, connect the pipes and generally there is enough suction to pull the fuel through, forget to fill the filter and then try starting the engine and you will drag in enough air to need to bleed the fuel system manually.

you can theoretically run without the low pressure fuel pump, but you will only be able to access one side of the fuel tank. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Robert wrote:

hi I checked the fuel system today. The rear pump does not deliver fuel to the filter. Good fuse. What should I check next?

The fuel pump in the tank doesn't pump fuel to the engine, just from one side of the tank to the other.

Power washing the engine won't affect the fuel system, so don't play with irrelevant items, you'll make things worse.
Best advice it go back and read the advice given on on this thread, like making sure every connection is dry and corrosion free.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

After a lot of comments about what the OP did wrong and some helpful ones can I ask Robert how he is now getting on.
I was brought up not to power wash car engines. BUT I remember way back when I had a succession of Datsun 120y,s as company cars I used a power wash on the engine quite a few times. Engine bay got filthy as I visited sites and quarries a lot.
Tried it once out of frustration and just drove away. So continued to power wash the 120y but never on any other vehicle.
Just wondering what the outcome was.
Cheers Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Still the same. fuses checked. Something shuts down the engine right after take off. fuel lines sprswdzone And they look ok. Any hints?

Can't remember without re reading the posts but have you run a code reader over it

Robert wrote:

Still the same. fuses checked. Something shuts down the engine right after take off. fuel lines sprswdzone And they look ok. Any hints?

This it's only 1 sec maby 2. Every time the same.