Cleaning car today got a big fright with this rusty bit.
Rear offside bottom of arch. Metal is solid.
Question, would I get away with rubbing down, undercoating and then spray paint.
Really don,t want to remove anything if possible. I have sidesteps on car.
Ear side is fine.
Suggestions please.


 Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

what's it like on the other side ? Jules

Jules, if you mean the near side its ok.
Or do you mean yhe inside of the rusty arch?
Probably needs more investigation anyway. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

If you are keeping the car you need to find out what is going on in the joint that we can see. If you don’t, you might as well not bother at all. Rust is always a bigger job than you want it to be. After all it is the natural state of iron which is rarely found in its metallic form. It takes a lot less energy to turn steel into rust than it takes to turn FeO (iron oxide) into steel.

Bossbob, will be keeping the car. In very good condition. Just spent £750 on full Dinitrol underselling.
Runs great. Nearly 81 and expect this could be my last car. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

janderson41 wrote:

Jules, if you mean the near side its ok.
Or do you mean yhe inside of the rusty arch?
Probably needs more investigation anyway.

Looking at the photos I would think the the corrosion is coming from the rear of the panel through to the front. So you will need to remove the wheel and inner wheel arch to see what's happening. Does it still have the wheel arch rubber trims fitted with the steel inserts these all seem to deform and allow water and mud to build up in that corner I've seen this on a number of Freelander 2 if caught in time it can be address otherwise it's a much bigger repair than it looks at first sight.

I agree - it doesnt look like surface rust to me. Jules

I think there was another thread on here about this issue.
I had been looking out for it on mine due to its age and sure enough it started to show during the winter.
Had it done a month or so back. Body shop that did it said it was starting to be a common thing on the F2 as it is on Disco's. Not sure about the Disco's but I have mentioned it to some I know with the F2 and it has been advice given at the right time.
Body shop also said if it's left too long, it becomes a big job or an MOT failure.

If its anything like the good old rust of the pre-galvanized cars, if you clean it back, you should be able to see if its coming through the panel. If it's bad then gentle prodding with a thin screwdriver will test panel strength, and if there are pinholes through the metal, they will weep rusty marks onto your cleaned panel (given a week or so).

As already said, the various plastic protection bits, do distort with time, and I am sure will be the achilles heel of the FL2 body. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Well, first time ever attempting paint job on a car.
After rubbing down the panel is sound.
Rubbed down cleaned and rust prevention undercoat applied.
Allowing time went to apply topcoat. New sealed Stornaway grey pent can has no button to press.
Got a button from other old paint spray can and put top coat on.
Bear with me please, first time and not perfect. Leaving it for a week or so then try again.
Hopefully photos show my work.
Proper order of photos is 1-4-3-2. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Photos should have been with post. Somehow they are in my gallery.
Anybody tell me why?
Thanks







 Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Your first pic the black plastick at the bottom I put some cocktail sticks in that to prise it out a bit and brushed rust killer right down it,well done.