Hi all. I have the 2007 Diesel built for a hot climate - so two radiator fans. About 3 years ago I took the cooling assembly out and replaced the motor on the top fan but now the bottom fan never comes on and the top fan doesn't come on at varing speeds, it only comes on at full blast when the temp gets to 97C.
Naturally I thought I needed to replace the bottom motor if I could find one...but when I connect 12v directly the bottom fan it works fine.

I think all this means that the control module is broken but I wanted to see what the collective wisdom is here.

In any event I'm about to buy a new control module they are pretty cheap to see if it works.

The air-conditioning is not working in this vehicle but I don't think that should affect fans like this.

Very interested in any thoughts.

i have a vehicle that has an ecu problem,so fans never come on,ive wired them via a relay to be switch manually by me when towing very heavy loads,ps its not a freelander.

I think twin fans is the standard on all TD4/SD4 FL2s but not the petrol I6
From the JLR manual TD4 section.

TWIN ELECTRIC FAN ASSEMBLY
A twin electric fan assembly is mounted to the fan shroud and attached to the rear of the radiator. The fans draw air
through the radiator to regulate the coolant temperature, and provide cooling air through the engine compartment.
The fans are operated by the fan control module that receives a 0 to 100% Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) frequency signal
from the ECM. The ECM varies the PWM signal based on inputs from various sensors. The fan control module uses the PWM
signal to determine the required output voltage to the 2 cooling fan motors.
For additional information, refer to: Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel (303-14 Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L
Diesel, Description and Operation).
Following certain engine operating conditions and with the ignition switched off, the fans will continue to operate under
the control of the ECM to maintain engine cooling. Jules

Last edited by jules on 13th Apr 2022 12:06 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Jules,

You need to check your build configuration to know for sure what your Freel2 left the factory with
(if you haven't owned it since new)


My stock build configuration

Fan - Non-hot Market Single Fan [121AB];

Note: I did upgrade to a dual fan for a 2010 Volvo S80 3.2 (My LR2 is a 2008 3.2)


Here is the link

https://www.vindecoderz.com/ I

And here is the discussion

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32610-15.html

Enjoy

Paul


Edit: I just looked at the link that I posted and the other FREEL2 member had a single fan but they also had a 3.2 so you might be correct (I thought that they were oil burners but my memory failed me)

My 2008 si6 LR2 came with the single fan shroud but I also, after getting the idea from @p_gill, replaced my single fan shroud with the Volvo dual fan for the Volvo si6 model equivalent. The Volvo shroud, dual, was cheaper than the LR single...

BTW, @ribama1, it may also be the electric controller module as well as you have appeared to have identified.

All TD4s have twin cooling fans according to the manual.


Although I can't get the picture to upload in full quantity.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Before replacing the fan module, check the purple wire that runs between it and the ECU under the scuttle panel. This is the signal wire that commands the fan operation. Very common for this to fail inside the insulation.
I know from past experience. I have a spare fan module somewhere in the garage that wasn't required.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

p_gill wrote:

Jules,

You need to check your build configuration to know for sure what your Freel2 left the factory with
(if you haven't owned it since new)

The I6 has a single or twin fan option,




the Td4/SD4 twin only (included as Nodge was disappointed with his pic )





FWIW I use the "Snip & Sketch" function in Win10 on my desktop to grab screenshots and save them as jpg to upload to forums. Win+shift+S Jules

gasman wrote:

Before replacing the fan module, check the purple wire that runs between it and the ECU under the scuttle panel. This is the signal wire that commands the fan operation. Very common for this to fail inside the insulation.
I know from past experience. I have a spare fan module somewhere in the garage that wasn't required.

Nodge68 wrote:

All TD4s have twin cooling fans according to the manual.


Although I can't get the picture to upload in full quantity.

Thanks everyone. I had not thought of testing the signal wire @p_gill @gasman for continuity. I will do that next, although I think in my case it has to be the module because one fan does still come on (thank goodness because we are hot here) when the temp reaches 97C. Its just that one fan (which I know works) doesn't come on at all and the modulation of the other doesn't work.

The other possibility is the ECU is faulty and does not send the module any signal until temp reaches 97C. but that would not explain one fan not working at all.

Anyway I do have an oscilloscope at work and it may be time to learn how it use it.

PS I've always been wary of overheating issues with this car (because I tow) and I have installed the transmission cooler also. I never rely on the temp gauge, it is really no more than on overheating light. The coolant needs to be well over 100C before the needle moves from centre. It then goes straight to high and in 30secs shows a warning.

"PS I've always been wary of overheating issues with this car (because I tow) and I have installed the transmission cooler also. I never rely on the temp gauge, it is really no more than on overheating light. The coolant needs to be well over 100C before the needle moves from centre. It then goes straight to high and in 30secs shows a warning."

Which is why modifying the IPAC firmware with Alex's updated files is a very worthwhile exercise, if you have the capability to do it of course.




https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19314.ht...nt+display (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I think the dead zone on the gauge is to stop people worrying too much about temp fluctuations - but then it can give them a false sense of security. I would prefer a more realistic gauge but I dont have the means to change the programming.

BMW went one further on my 3 series and removed the temp gauge all together !
I was lucky; used an OBD2 scanner to find the thermostat was faulty and wouldn't open fully, before the engine over heated. Jules

Last edited by jules on 21st Apr 2022 9:52 am. Edited 1 time in total

Hi All
An update and a plea for help .

I have installed the new fan module and both fans do indeed now come on. So some success. Yaaaa.

But nothing comes on until the engine coolant temp reaches 97C.

To me this seems quite late so I was hoping someone with a scan tool was prepared to let their car idle and see what temp the fan come on at when the ac is off. Would very much appreciate your effort.

According the JLR manual - the thermostat on the TD4c starts to open at 85C and is fully open at 91C. So 97C for the fans seems about right to me. You wouldn't want them on till the radiator's cooling ability had been used up.
Its a pressurised system so high transient temps are not unusual. My BMW 330D went to 103C on the 'Ring.

Fan operation is quite complex and not a simple temp triggered on or off.
From the manual

"The temperature of the cooling system is constantly monitored by the ECM via the ECT sensor signal. The ECM uses the
ECT signal to control operation of the cooling fans, and to adjust engine fueling. The ECM also operates the fans in
response to inputs from the automatic transmission oil temperature sensor, Air Conditioning (A/C) system control switch,
and the A/C pressure sensor. For additional information, refer to: Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel (303-14
Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel, Description and Operation).
For additional information, refer to: Air Conditioning (412-01 Climate Control, Description and Operation).
The cooling fan speed is also influenced by vehicle road speed. The ECM adjusts the speed of the cooling fans to
compensate for the ram air effect, using the CAN bus road speed signal received from the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
module.
When the engine is shut down, the coolant temperature and volume decrease. The thermostat starts to close as the
coolant temperature decreases to 89°C (192°F), and is fully closed at 81°C (178°F). The coolant level within the reservoir
decreases as coolant is drawn from the reservoir to replenish the system.
Following engine shut down when the coolant pump is stationary, the ECM may continue to operate the cooling fans for a
pre-determined period to maintain engine cooling." Jules