I'll get an assistant out to help check next time.

So if I put it up on the ramps on the drive so I can get under a little easier, and leave all four wheels on the floor, should I be able to turn the propshaft?

With the above test, if the splines are gone, then should I be able to turn it?

Does the engine need to be running for any of these tests? I know it goes in and out of 4WD, so want to make sure I'm testing at the right time.

Nbuuifx wrote:

Rommel wrote:

Try jacking up one rear wheel and see if it rotates if it does then NO 4wd if it will not rotate the drive should be going the rear wheels

One rear wheel jacked up. Handbrake off and in neutral - the wheel freely spins.

One rear wheel jacked up. Handbrake off and in first gear - the wheel freely spins

So if I put it up on the ramps on the drive so I can get under a little easier, and leave all four wheels on the floor, should I be able to turn the propshaft?

NO - you need to raise one front wheel to be turn the propshaft. Its a simple diff really at the front just as the rear diff is beyond the haldex.
If you can turn the prop with both front wheels stationary then something in the front driveline is not connected any more. Jules

Nbuuifx wrote:

Does the engine need to be running for any of these tests?

jules wrote:

So if I put it up on the ramps on the drive so I can get under a little easier, and leave all four wheels on the floor, should I be able to turn the propshaft?

NO - you need to raise one front wheel to be turn the propshaft. Its a simple diff really at the front just as the rear diff is beyond the haldex.
If you can turn the prop with both front wheels stationary then something in the front driveline is not connected any more.

Front Splines if the Haldex locked up rear wheels would not turn. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

For a manual car.
Both front wheels on the floor, in gear, engine off and the propshaft should not turn, if it does the PTU has failed. It could be (most likely) the splines, but the pinion could also have failed and give the same result.

Doesn't matter what you do with the rear wheels at this point, as they should NOT be connected to the propshaft. There could be drag in the Haldex, this would cause the propshaft to rotate by spinning a rear wheel ONLY if the PTU is dead.

You might feel like grabbing the propshaft and trying to hold it still while the beautiful assistant manually spins the rear wheel to see if it is just drag or the Haldex has locked up.

Here's the issues,
1) PTU splines die - they run dry, fret and fail.
2) PTU crownwheel and pinions fail because LR said the oil doesn't need changing.
3) Haldex fail because LR originally said they were maintenance free.

If the Haldex has failed in a locked mode, it will damage both the rear differential the PTU & splines.
Dead PTU or splines will not damage the Haldex or differential.
Dead Haldex failed open will not damage the PTU or differential, but should put up a warning light. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

I have replaced the PTU on mine. Not a hard job, but the problem I had was the splined shaft had seized on the gearbox diff output, and had to remove the gearbox to replace it

Earlier postings on the PTU

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35594.html Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Andy131 wrote:

You do not need to drop the transmission oil to check the splines.
Working in the street I managed to strip out the PTU, decide what parts were needed and put it back together again in a weekend.
Repeated the stripdown and fitted the new parts a few weekends later.

Whip out the RH drive shaft, disconnect the propshaft (leave it in position), and then remove the PTU. The splined sleeve is then visible, give it a really good pull and it comes out of the Auto gearbox losing a teacup full of oil. Mine was stripped where it entered the PTU as was the PTU - runs dry by design. The gearbox end of the sleeve is lubricated so shouldn't be worn/damaged, so if you are just stripping to ascertain what parts you need leave the sleeve in place.

Forget messing about with the wheels, put the car in park, get underneath and try to turn the propshaft - if it turns the PTU/splines are dead. If its a manual put her in gear, have a beautiful assistant stamp on the foot brakes and try turning the propshaft.

It really does depend on how handy you are with the spanners - or how much you hate shopping at the Trafford Center.

From memory I undid the hub from the lower wishbone, undid the hub nut and swung the hub out of the way, you will need to take the brake caliper off and tie it up to get enough leeway.
Did the job twice and didn't damage the ball joint or rubber.
Midway along the RH drive shaft is a bearing, you will need to undo the bearing carrier.
The drive shaft is going to need some gentle persuasion to let go of the gearbox, nothing that a hide hammer can't solve.

It has been a long time since I did the job, or since I owned a Freelander for that matter Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Thanks for the reply, so you could get enough swing from the hub to leave the drive shaft connected at that end?

Then once that is out, just disconnect the prop, and then remove the PTU?

All sounds too easy!

I'm sure there will be more to challenge on the way.

No - you can get enough swing on the hub to be able to drive the driveshaft out from the hub.
The drive shaft needs to not only come out of the gearbox, it needs to come through the PTU, so a good foot or more.
It really is strait forwards, I didn't have a manual, so made mistakes along the way, but it can be done in a day as long as you don't have too many coffees and the rain isn't turning the gutter that you are lying in into a small river. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Andy131 wrote:

From memory I undid the hub from the lower wishbone, undid the hub nut and swung the hub out of the way, you will need to take the brake caliper off and tie it up to get enough leeway.
Did the job twice and didn't damage the ball joint or rubber.
Midway along the RH drive shaft is a bearing, you will need to undo the bearing carrier.
The drive shaft is going to need some gentle persuasion to let go of the gearbox, nothing that a hide hammer can't solve.

It has been a long time since I did the job, or since I owned a Freelander for that matter

Don't remove the driveshaft, just disconnect from the PTU, it will push back the few mm needed.
The PTU has to come off to get to the splined sleeve. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner