My SD4 auto 2011 65k miles has a gearbox issue. It works beautifully until I’m in heavy London traffic , after a while, it jolts when I take up the drive. So if I’m holding it on the footbrake and the traffic moves, I release the footbrake to creep forward and I get a jolt, like the car behind has run into me. It doesn’t do it all the time, but the longer stuck in traffic the worse it gets. I guess the gearbox oil is at its hottest.
I can’t find an invoice for a gearbox service so I assume it’s never been done. Would this help and does anyone have any indie recommendations in Kent or SE London for this.
Thanks

Defo try a gearbox fluid re & re.......this is an amazing forum with great members and someone will be by shortly with a place to get this done. Volvo also uses the same setup as certain year class FL2s, so a reputable Volvo indy might also be a useful alternative.

Last edited by MotionInc on 19th Mar 2021 12:03 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Could be expensive play in the splines going into the PTU. Could be a CV joint with play in it, although I don't image just one with play would jolt the whole car. Or could be that your box needs a service oil change. 65K is about the right time to do it. MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE

It can be solved for a while with a software update that will "mask" the real problem.
If you want to keep the car for long time, you need to replace some o-rings inside.

Look here: https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...ncerns.pdf
And here (courtesy of our Russian colleagues): https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...011_on.pdf

Landypandy wrote:

My SD4 auto 2011 65k miles has a gearbox issue. It works beautifully until I’m in heavy London traffic , after a while, it jolts when I take up the drive. So if I’m holding it on the footbrake and the traffic moves, I release the footbrake to creep forward and I get a jolt, like the car behind has run into me. It doesn’t do it all the time, but the longer stuck in traffic the worse it gets. I guess the gearbox oil is at its hottest.
I can’t find an invoice for a gearbox service so I assume it’s never been done. Would this help and does anyone have any indie recommendations in Kent or SE London for this.
Thanks

blacktiger wrote:

Could be expensive play in the splines going into the PTU. Could be a CV joint with play in it, although I don't image just one with play would jolt the whole car. Or could be that your box needs a service oil change. 65K is about the right time to do it.

Didn't know there was a filter in the pan.
At 106K you are well and truly overdue an oil change, it's easy enough to do, but will take up most of the day as you can only do partial changes. Drop the oil (about a litre), replace missing oil, run through the gears while stationary and repeat, and repeat, and repeat etc until the oil comes out the same colour as it goes in. for a 7ish litre box you will probably need around 12 litres of oil.

A professional auto gearbox specialist will have a machine that connects between the oil cooler and gearbox, this captures the old oil and fills with new oil on the fly meaning that it only uses the correct amount of oil and takes considerably less time.
Lots of posts her about how to do it properly.

You will be shocked at the blackened burned stuff that comes out.

Do it now you know it makes sense. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Timbo_1975 wrote:

Does anyone change the filter inside the pan, or just flush & replace the fluid in the autobox ? My recent purchase has 106k, no evidence of a fluid change....

As far as I am aware the auto g/box has to be removed & dismantled to access the filter. Not a job for the faint hearted  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I do concur that its time for the transmission and diffs fluid change. But I highly doubt that is the fix for the issue at hand. Rings ? seals? even a cv joint will cause what you describe.
One thing for certain, deal with it now or suffer a bigger issue. Guy Pensa
Cars with Personalities
Getting itchy. What's next?
2014 Land Rover HSE Lux (blend of practicality and aggressiveness)
2007 XKR (Jaguar Racing Green) (woo hoo!)
2004 XJR (Jaguar Racing Green) (deceased)
2002 S-Type R (British Racing Green, of course)
1951 Riley RMD (Black, time for that restoration)

I am going to have my auto box serviced soon by my very experienced Indie, what is the correct ATF fluid to buy for my 2009 auto and how much on average does it take to flush it through
Thanks in advance.
Moe

JWS3309 ATF
4 L for a single flush

Thanks Arese for the info,where else can you find out information this fast, what a great forum this is.
Cheers
Moe

Arese wrote:

JWS3309 ATF
4 L for a single flush

Yes
I calculated that to remove 89.3 % of the original ATF you would need 4 exchanges , each being a 3L dump & fill. Jules

^^^^^, soooo, 1 more drain and fill and I am on all newer stuff even though the 4 prior changes were staggered.