Hi,
My FL2 2007 TD4 Auto just passed the 200.000 km mark.
Not that I worry about that, but I want to keep te car for another 5 years (80.000 km) until I retire (and maybe longer )

I have always followed the Landrover maintenance scheme. Even gone beyond it with shorter intervals
But as I wander through this forum, I notice some items that I could look at doing extra.

I have done the EGR valve, new brake calibers and things like a new power steering reservoir.
I do carry along a set of rear wheel bearings.
Have done all the fluids in all differentials and I do regular service on the haldex.

I don't mind spending some money and do some extra things when the weather is fine and I have time.

What would you think I could/should do extra beyond the LR maintenance scheme:
- EGR-valve
- Power-steering reservoir
- Haldex maintenance
- replace transfercase oil
- extra ground cable
- new crank shaft sensor
- boot door lock handle
- new intercooler tube?
- new cooling water hoses (?)
- new thermostat (?)
- new brake lines (not the hoses which are part of the LR scheme) (?)
- new fuel pump (?)
- new fuel lines (?)
- any other sensors that give trouble (?)
- replace all wheel bearings (?)
- the turbo (?)
- new high pressure fuel injection pump (?)
- rear differential mod (looks like has been done by previous owner)
- ....

Anything you would ad to this list (or leave out)?

kind regards
Jaap

One thing I would say, is always use Genuine parts. Otherwise you can replace something serviceable with something that will fail very quickly.
I have had problems with indie garages "doing me a favour" by using cheaper parts which didn't last.
I'm amazed your egr is still going strong. Mine always seem to fail after 40-50 000 miles. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

I did the EGR at 185000 km

Based on my experience, after passing 200.000km you may expect to replace the following in the near/far future:

- Wheel bearings
- Rear shock absorbers
- Glow plugs
- Intercooler hoses (especially the short one towards the throttle body)
- Handbrake shoes. These have no wear, but corrosion may make the linings fell of the metal shoe and seize the wheel.

Other items you shall pay attention to and replace if necessary:
- Brakes in general
- Corrosion
- Timing belt
- Clutch
- Aux belt pulley/tensioner
- Alternator pulley. This one has a one-way bearing that seizes with time and cause extra engine vibration
- Xenon bulbs
- Starter solenoid contacts
- Gearbox fluids + haldex.
- State of rear diff.
- Rear viper motor.

I have been through all of these points on mine, -07 @250000km, excpet for the clutch which is still the one it left the factory with.

If not already done so, clean, de-rust and waxoyl the subframes. Excess rust on them is a potentially expensive failure.

Thx for your ideas:

I have done 230.000 km now (still going strong)

I did have a look at the sub frames and did some derusting and painting on the outside. Got the wax oil in yesterday and will do the inside soon before winter.

Besides that I did change the following:

- new rear and front shock absorbers (yes all)
- new springs in the rear

- new glow plugs (what a job to get to) and at the same time did
- 'new' intake manifold without the swirl flaps (from a jaguar) - i made some videos of that process and I should upload those on YouTube one day (job for the winter).

- new crankshaft sensor ring.

- New intercooler hose (the short one towards the throttle body) and yes I bought the cheap one ending up with a downgrade and a blown hose and had to limb home. I should have listened better to you guys! Will recieve some silicone ones tomorrow (upper and lower) from Britpart.

- Handbrake shoes. Will get those soon as I noticed cracks in the brake lining when i changed the discs yesterday
- Brakes in general: changed all discs, pads, calliper brackets, hoses and callipers (upgraded from TD4 to the bigger 3.2 Petrol brakes... don't tell anyone). It made a difference (but that could all be just the new pads/discs. All from TRW

- Took care of the corrosion in the wheel wells (behind the inner lining. Especially in the rear!!) painted with hamerite.

- Done the timing belt and cooling fluid pump thing (2nd time now) I love that job. Its so easy.
- Aux belt pulley/tensioner (plus belt)
- Done the alternator pulley. This one has a one-way bearing that seizes with time and cause extra engine vibration

- New Xenon bulbs and headlight units (old ones were yellowish)... got new ones for.... 150 Euro each form a wrecked FL2, who had just changed them...
- additional earth to the starter motor.
- New rear boot door handle

- New rubber hoses for the particle filter differential pressure sensor (yes I have the filter and these hoses are near the exhaust which they did not like (completely burnt and gone)).

- New drivers seat cushion and leather cover (found them in Poland).
- New drivers seat armrest (from a Range Rover)

- new batteries in the key FOB's
- New wheel nuts
- New Michelins (Pilot 3)

- New wheel arch trimmings (the rubber with metal insides that keep on rusting)
- New gear select lever (AT)

This about it.

I was just wondering if I need to do something with the turbo?
It has those variable vanes. Do I need to lubricate that before it seizes?

Anything else I should look for or change up front?
Will do the Haldex soon.

How about the drains of the sunroof? Can they get blocked? I haven't got a clue where they are (are there any?)

This could end up being a nice list of issues one needs to look out for or have in mind when the Freelanders get in there midlife crisis.

thx for all those that gave input! FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

Last edited by Jaaph on 7th Sep 2020 7:47 pm. Edited 1 time in total

When I have kept cars for long mileages, I have found that, although I don't notice the gradual deterioration in the handling and ride, changing the suspension bushes, and checking all the joints for slack, makes a difference in how the car drives (and sounds).
Don't forget the anti-roll bar (stabilizer) links, slack on these cause noise and odd handling.

As long as you keep everything lubricated correctly, I would not change moving parts, unless they are showing signs of wear and tear. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thx IanMetro.

I will keep that in mind. I monitor the condition of all the bushings and they seem to be fine at the moment. Although the antiroll bar is getting rusty.

I do not have a press so I don't think of doing these soon.
I am very happy how the car drives and behaves. Especially the new brakes are beter (I tow a caravan through the Alps for at least 6 weeks and 5000 km each year).

Biggest difference was the power-steering oil reservoir change. That made a real difference for the internal filter was completely clogged. Steering was very direct and smooth afterwards. FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km