Just got home and after shutting down the engine there is a loud rattle, from the part that usually makes a noise on shutdown. It also does it when key is inserted. Any ideas? Sounds like a motor gone dry


It's is coming from this area

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

What you point out is the electric throttle.
Don't worry. It's relatively normal, depending on the sound.
It's just the throttle flap inside opening/closing to find out the extreme positions and then resetting to open position.

It's very loud. Is it possible there is a soot build up?

You could always remove the module and take look...
Mine makes a sound just like the flap of an old carburettor that is left free and hits/claps back to the idle position.

Ok cheers alex, it' sounds like it flapping quick or the motor is seized

Just had it plugged a diagnostic machine and is showing as faulted/jamming. So looks like it need to be changed £89!

Question..... Is it easy to change?

It's easy quite easy to remove it if you like to get your hands a little dirty.
But before changing it, try to clean it first.
You'll be surprised by the quantity of dirt that accumulates on it.
Use paint thinner for cleaning its flap and surounding area.

Cheers Alex, will have a look after tomorrows off road trip!

Problem solved, new throttle assembly fitted. Turns out the plastic gears have stripped in the old unit

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Thank you very much for sharing these photos.
They could be useful for someone who wants to know what's inside and how it can be repaired.

It seems that because of an unusual greater needed force, those plastic tooths just snapped.
Maybe because of the carbon deposits on and around that flap???
In close proximity is the EGR valve and the carbon particulate from exhaust combined with the oil vapors from the crankcase recirculation system could lead to that black deposits.

Remember that YF and DG kept saying to us about that 2T oil?
That 2T oil has 2 benefits: lubrication (yet to be proved) and cleaner combustion (proved).
We keep insisted for the proof for the first and neglecting the second, which is by default acknowledged.
Now, even only for the second one - complete/cleaner combustion (and leaving the first one aside) and the 2T oil is good for your engine.
Those black deposits will accumulate much slower because of the much smaller quantity of carbon particulate present in a more complete combustion.

The only way I could see a repair is new gears. They have mainly worn down from close inspection, a couple have snapped. I am guessing it should not be as oily then? The loud noise I heard would of been the gears grinding.

hi
mine's just gone now too - after an enthusiastic MOT smoke test! same sort of flapping fluttering metallic sort of noise as described.

what was the part no i need to order?
thanks
pete

I recently experienced the same problem on my 2008 FL2 TD4 92K km and had the incredible screeching sound as the butterfly valve was jammed, and the electric motor chewed out the main wheel. I interrogated the engine ECU and the fault code data returned via my Blackbox was:

DIESEL INTAKE AIR FLOW POSITION SENSOR - CIRCUIT HIGH -:P02E9
MECHANICAL FAILURE - ACTUATOR IS STUCK CLOSED. (PERMANENT)

I did not have the build up of oily sludge as seen in Landy's images, and my throttle body was relatively clean, though I do use either 2T oil or an additive called Moreys Diesel Smoke Killer (from New Zealand and has Naptha in it! ) in the fuel. I suspect that the throttle body mechanism eventually wears out though this car does not do a lot of short runs, with the engine being constantly started and shutdown.

The images and description provided by Landy are very good (thank you), and replacement of the throttle body is relatively easy, though fiddly. I advise that if one has the problem, remove the throttle body, prise off the cover of the gear mechanism, and remove the chewed wheel, and re-assemble. The valve remains in the open position and one can still use the vehicle until a new body has been obtained. Further, one could ignore purchase and the FL2 would still operate, though there may be the occasional "run-on" at engine shutdown. Here in outback Australia, I order my parts online from the UK and they arrive airfreight via Singapore, faster and much cheaper than from Sydney or Melbourne.

One wonders if the FL2 with the "stop-start" technology (TD4e) have a heavier duty throttle body. There is no difference in the part numbers, and one orders the throttle body (Part no: LR012598), though there was an earlier part number that was superceded, LR001001. MY08 Freelander 2 HSE TD4
130K kms
Darwin, Northern Territory
Australia

Nymagee_Boy wrote:

Further, one could ignore purchase and the FL2 would still operate, though there may be the occasional "run-on" at engine shutdown.

If that is part of the electronic throttle body, did it affect the running of the car in any way? I would have thought the missing teeth would have made the car less responsive to the accelerator pedal. Poke it, Poke it, make it do it again!!

Gone - 2008 Freel2 HSE Santorini Black
Hello - 2010 RRS TDV6 3.0 HSE Santorini Black