I have a noise from front of car whilst driving sounds like a wheel bearing on its way out but all checked seem fine. Had the car in for cambelt water/pump change they also commented on test drive "noise coming from front transmission area".

Car is an 2013 SD4 auto with 62,000 miles. The Haldex coupling was changed by Landrover a couple of years ago so I doubt it is anything to do with that. Tyres are all same make and in good order.

Obviuosly having just paid out over £600 for the cambelt etc I dont want to have a garage changing loads of components to try to get to the source of this noise.

Any pointers on where I should check before giving it to a garage would be most welcome

try turning off the aircon. this will remove load from the aux belt. The bearings in the alternator are known to go. that said your car is on the young side for that. Stewart
2007 Freelander 2 SE TD4
2007 A6 quattro 3.0 TDI Manual
1986 coupe quattro (kv) square wheels.
1972 mini 1400 100BHP A series

The fact the sound is reported to be at the front rules out the haldex and rear diff as they are at the back of the car.
You might want to consider the PTU or front diff though.

Best of luck - tracking the source of these sort of "bearing " sounds can be very frustrating.

You might want to consider a noise detector . Tend to be expensive but Ive found this ...


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Electronic-...xyiRlSa-oq Jules

SWalker wrote:

try turning off the aircon. this will remove load from the aux belt. The bearings in the alternator are known to go. that said your car is on the young side for that.

jules wrote:

The fact the sound is reported to be at the front rules out the haldex and rear diff as they are at the back of the car.
You might want to consider the PTU or front diff though.

Best of luck - tracking the source of these sort of "bearing " sounds can be very frustrating.

You might want to consider a noise detector . Tend to be expensive but Ive found this ...


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Electronic-...xyiRlSa-oq

Update had another look yesterday, there is a small noise from the drivers side wheel bearing using the vibration detection kit above. This is turning by hand with both wheels off the ground. All other wheel bearings are silent. Do I go for a full knuckle assembly for the drivers side on the assumption that the noise I am hearing would be amplified whilst driving?

Well I decided to go for the drivers side front bearing, this turned out to be a pig of a job I rounded off the main bolt on the knuckle assembly, so I ended up getting the angle grinder on it, the angle grinder knicked the suspension causing a small leak so I changed that also. All put together again, heavens opened before I could get the wipers back on to take it for a test drive. So tomorrow I will find out if I got the correct bearing, if not at least I have a bit more knowledge and proper tools to do the job more efficiently on the other side

Bobbster, did you get that sorted . . . . .or did you change cars and vanish ? . . .  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

Bobbster wrote:

Update had another look yesterday, there is a small noise from the drivers side wheel bearing using the vibration detection kit above. This is turning by hand with both wheels off the ground. All other wheel bearings are silent. Do I go for a full knuckle assembly for the drivers side on the assumption that the noise I am hearing would be amplified whilst driving?

I'm not sure if the OP managed to sort his front-end noise, but I recently had a similar issue. Road-speed-related hum from the front that was hard to locate and sounded expensive, worse on cornering. Tone and pitch of the hum was very similar to when my rear-diff was going. I feared the worst, but was hoping it might be wheel-bearing rather than front transfer box.

Happily, though, it turned out to be nothing more than a binding front brake and a new caliper has sorted it. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Using the vibration detection kit which suggested it was indeed a front right wheel bearing (the only source of noise) I went ahead and changed the knuckle assembly, all good now fixed it.