MotionInc wrote:

That very weird & difficult to trouble shoot. Here is a cheap temporary solution until you can track this issue down and solve it. Buy a cheap on/off switch for the OBDII to your reader and turn it on before starting the vehicle, off when you switch off the vehicle as the reader will pose a small draw on the battery when connected. Velcro your reader to the dashboard.

16 Pin M to F with Switch OBD2 Cord Extension Cable Adapter Connector On/Off

Amazon sells them quite cheap.

IanMetro wrote:

I've had a quick look but I can't see an obvious wiring link to cover all your symptoms.

I suggest that you have a really detailed look at what is working and what is not with Reader connected/disconnected, and ignition on/off.

This includes doors, interior lights, and all accessories.

In the meantime have you seen these posts of wiring diagrams and earthing points.

Find the Earth Distribution diagram, Diagnostic Socket Power Ground (pin5) goes to Common Earthing Point G3D134-1,
and Diagnostic Socket Signal Earth (pin4) goes to G6D139-1.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic2943.html

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...TS_LHD.pdf

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32832.html?highlight=earthing

One other thing, that could be checked physically, is water ingress into a Controller plug/socket.

If you spot a likely culprit, disconnect and have a look at the pins.

I am still puzzled that if the CanBus is involved that no engine or transmission errors are showing and being recorded. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Ian, I have started doing just that, not found anything yet--started at the back where the tow bar electrics are connected and will move forward.. Honestly I am not surprised to get no errors on the OBDII reader as it was only a few quid on eBay and probably not at all sophisticated. I didn't ask the garage if they had any messages on their proper kit.
One thing maybe worth mentioning -- when they had it in the garage they thought they had found the problem with the Heating control panel, so the fitted and programmed a new one and all was good for about 24 hours ! When I went out in it the next day, the problem came back ! ( and I'd paid the bill !!! )

Well-- It's Monday and I have not used the car over the weekend and now I find my Brand spanking new battery is as flat as a pancake. So whatever is causing my problem is also causing a short somewhere !!

Old Barty
How have you got on.
If you still are having problem with CanBus, perhaps Alex or someone with deep FL2 technical experience could help. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Ian,
Thanks for asking --and Yes, I have some news ( but no solution yet ! )

Having drawn blanks with searching for anything like moisture ingress etc, , I decided that I would remove the wires from the plug of my cheapy OBD reader one at a time and see what happened. The result was that other than the reader stopped lighting up when I removed the wire from Pin 5 the removal of all the other wires made any difference.
SO, with NO wires connected but with the Pins on the pcb of the reader plugged in-- it all works !!! I have looked at the PCB and can see no Via's or tracks between any of the pins, so I am bewildered --- Do you think it could be something to do with the diagnostic socket ?
Tomorrow, I think I may just try inserting one pin at a time into the relevant sockets of the diagnostic port and see what that brings -- Unless, of course anyone has any lightbulb moments !!

^^^^^That is truly weird . Please, keep us updated.

Good Morning !
Thanks for taking an interest -- Well, having destroyed the plug on my old OBDII reader I think I am somewhat nearer to the Eureka moment ! I systematically took out each pin from the reader plug and then plugged it in to see what happened .
With ALL pins out except 4 & 5 ( Ground pins ) it still worked. When I removed one of the ground pins it all stopped. So, I inserted these pins one at a time and still nothing. Looking more closely at the pcb they are fitted in I see that they are, in fact, Linked -- So I shorted between pins 4 & 5 and Bingo !
Obviously my actions are bridging the Chassis Ground and the Signal Ground, so one is faulty.
So methinks I have a bad earth connection somewhere, But where ? Any pointers to any likely spots would be appreciated !
O

Here is a link to a CanBus trouble shooting guide.

http://www.esd-electronics-usa.com/CAN-Bus...Guide.html

The signal earth is needed to provide a reliable reference voltage between all the connected trans/receivers in the various controllers otherwise you will get false Hi/Lo signals.

From what I can see on the Ground Distribution wiring diagram, the signal earth are fed from earth point G6D139-1.
I am struggling to completely understand where the signal earth is grounded in the car, but I suggest that you trace the grounding wiring back from Point G6D139-1. (I note that the Blower is on one of the first sub-junctions).

http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userp...20Diag.pdf FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Ian -- Thanks for the suggestion. The fact that Ground G6D 139-1 is on the heater blower Junction gives me a little hope as it was the heater panel that my garage replaced thinking they had cured it -- Maybe in doing the work they just temporarily made the earth circuit a little less resistive. Also, if I am right, the other earth from the Diagnostic socket terminates at G3D 134-1 which is also fairly adjacent and could have been inadvertently jiggled. Either way, I guess I am going to have some of the dash panel out to investigate, which will be a new experience !
OR I suppose, I could make a shorting link between pins 4 & 5 and save myself the trouble ! But that would be cheating wouldn't it !!

You could most likely get away with providing another earth at the diagnostic socket.

I am not sure but it may mean that you will have possibly a divided 'signal earth' run. This may cause false Hi/Lo signals to appear on Bus when extreme currents are running in the chassis. (Similar to computer network signalling problems using neutrals across different buildings/circuits)

Be aware that if the potentials of the 2 circuits vary too much you may damage parts of your controllers.

If you can find the high resistance along the line and replace or rectify it, that would be better. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Again ! And -- EUREKA !!! ( I hope ) I have removed most of the centre console, radio, Heater etc and I have found what I think are Both G6D139-1 and G3D134-1 --Both are yellow and Black wires both in very close proximity to each other and both screwed to what looks like a aluminium of diecast body ( Heater ? ) Having a closer look the eyelet on the top one of the two looked suspiciously to be away from the casting. A further prod with my finger shoed this to be correct and I could move it easily. So I ask myself, if this is the problem, how the hell did it ever work in the first place as the screw is far from tight, in fact there is probably 2mm gap before it tightens !!
So, now I need to find a way to tighten it up as there is absolutely no access from under the steering wheel due to the drivers lower airbag and the access to the screw head is impeded by a metal bracket. I am somewhat fearful that I may have to take the entire dash out which fills me with trepidation. Looking at some stuff I have the instructions state that you shoud make the SRS system safe first but I don't know how to do that.--- Does anyone have any ideas for an easier way to get at it ?

I have attached a couple of photos to show what I found. Also have a little video but not sure I can upload it.

Old Barty

Well done, I hope it solves your problem, let us know if what the outcome is. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Is it possible to tighten the screw with a pair of needle nosed pliers or grips? If not, I suggest you cut the leads at the terminals & route them to a more accessible location. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)