Anti Roll Bar Links?
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic30877.htm...roll+links

From search
http://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?sea...rch_time=0

I have had these drop links fail on several of my (nonFL2) giving clunking over bumps. Also had similar with fractured (not fully broken) suspension spring. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 1st Jan 2019 8:17 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Is it just me being stupid or is there a nut and washer missing from there? 😳

No idea!

If there is indeed something missing it would explain a lot!

In the circled part of the picture.......🤓

It looks like the ball bush for the lower wishbone.

Work shop manual says
The lower control arm assembly comprises the control arm, a rubber bush, a hydrabush and a ball joint.
The control arm is a pressed steel fabrication. The outer end is fitted with a non-serviceable taper ball joint which mates with the wheel knuckle.
The 2 inner attachments locate in the subframe. The forward attachment is a non-serviceable rubber bush which is pressed into the control arm. This joint locates in a slot in the subframe and is secured with a bolt which is screwed into a threaded boss on the subframe.
The rearward attachment is a hydrabush which is located on a spigot on the control arm. The hydrabush has 2 welded brackets which provides for its attachment to the subframe with 2 bolts and nuts. The hydrabush contains hydraulic fluid and valves which allow controlled displacement of the bush to improve bump and handling characteristics and also reduce road noise transmission. The bush becomes progressively stiffer as the forces on it increase, such as severe braking.

Unless it's internally broken it looks ok to me.


The Stabiliser Bar link (to give it it's proper name) is the long vertical bar in your picture going between the end of othe Stabiliser Bar and to a point on the Damper Strut just below the Front Spring.

The stabilizer bar is attached to the rear of the subframe with bushes and mounting brackets. The pressed steel brackets locate over the bushes and are attached to the cross member with bolts screwed into threaded locations in the subframe. The stabilizer bar has 'anti-shuffle' collars pressed in position on the inside edges of the bushes. The collars prevent sideways movement of the stabilizer bar.
The stabilizer bar is manufactured from 20.5 mm diameter, manganese steel bar. Each end of the stabilizer bar curves forwards to attach to a ball joint on a stabilizer link. Each stabilizer link is secured to a bracket on the damper body with a locknut. The links, which are not handed, allow the stabilizer bar to move with the wheel travel providing maximum effectiveness.
The stabilizer bar bushes are the compression type which grip the bar under compression by the mounting brackets. When fitting replacement bushes, it is important to ensure the bushes are correctly orientated to the bar. Failure to correctly align the bushes will result in excessive pre-load (wind-up) in the bushes when the suspension is at its nominal ride height

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32299.htm...hop+manual FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I'll get my coat 🤐

Kage wrote:

Is it just me being stupid or is there a nut and washer missing from there? 😳

If you download the Workshop Manual in https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf

then find a diagram of the Lower Control Arm on page 201 of 3229,

have a look, it looks as if the Bolt just screws through the Ball Bush into the subframe. (without a locknut)

or (unlike me) go out in the cold and lie under the car and look. (I haven't looked and may be wrong) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 12th Jan 2019 3:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks guys,

Everything at the bottom is complete.

The problem was that the shock did not seat 100% in the shock mount, seems it went a rad scew at the bottom and with the corrugated road it worked itself properly into the shock mount but with a mm of 2 of play.

Now for the noisy lower control arm bushes...

IanMetro wrote:

If you download the Workshop Manual in https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf

That's a good find.

.

Hi Guys
Put the car on ramps yesterday to remove sump guard for an oil change.
Took the opportunity to search for source of "clanking" (metallic) noise from right front suspension. Grabbed the linkage (drop link?) connecting the stabilizer to the damper and it felt loose and also made a metallic noise.
Thinking that the nut locating the linkage to the stabilizer was loose, I tried to fasten it, but the whole pin/bolt turned in the ball joint! My reasoning says the pin/bolt should not be turning/moving.
How does one fasten the nut without the whole bolt turning? Is there a "bolthead"-like feature on the bolt for fitting a flat spanner while fastening the nut from the other side?
The rubber boot seems to be located by what looks like a circlip type clamp. Can one remove this (how?) and prise the boot sideways to access this "bolthead feature with a flat spanner? In other words - how do I prevent the bolt from turning while fastening the nut?
Any advice and guidance would be appreciated!
Regards Snorkie
Pretoria
South Africa