DGL - same code as mine, same year of car but with 40k which required a new turbo. I think I read somewhere that the actuator is no longer available just the complete turbo.

thanks for your reply, I read that on here as well, what a pain, I wonder if the actuator can be refurbished as it were, rather then a whole new turbo.

it seems lunacy that the actuator was once available and now you have to replace the whole turbo......


Could i ask how much you paid for the new turbo? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

It came in at £1500 through the LR dealer but was paid for by the Approved Warranty that came with the car. I’m sure an Indy would be cheaper.

The actuator is still available if you hunt around. A main dealer will only fit a complete turbo and not just the actuator so that they can provide a guarantee.If you have a warranty then let it pay for the new parts . If you are paying for it yourself then the likes of this might be a option.
See eBay item number eBay Item No. 292962739813 No connection to the seller. You would have to check the parts numbers on your old actuator to ensure compatibility. You can remove the turbo pipe and feel for play in the bearings which would indicate a worn turbo. Also remove the actuator arm and check that it moves freely and is not seized. I would think however at that age and mileage the turbo will be fine. The problem is most likely the actuator.

Thanks both, We are due to go on holiday in two weeks time, and this was our vehicle to get us around, so im really keen to get a fix asap.This is so frustrating as we've had the car for only three weeks, private sale with Full Land Rover Service History, so no warranty, im not looking forward to a huge bill right now!

Im booked into a LR specialist tomorrow morning for diagnostics, ill see what they say and report back, Thanks DonDiddly for the heads up, if it comes to it I'll take that route rather than the full turbo replacement.

Does anyone know if independents are happy to change just the actuator? or is it a very simple job that a fairly competent DIYer can do (me!)? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Hope it works out for you.

The actuator is a DIY job. From memory get the front up on stands, remove the undertray, then its 3 or 4 bolts, the wiring plug and the clip that holds on the actuator arm. Once the new actuator is fitted If you can clear the codes fine but if not the codes should clear during the start up self check that the car does. Good luck!

So i have an update from the LR Indy. After having it for an hour they did the following....

1)Smoke tested the boost - no leaks found.
2)Accessed the turbo, actuator appears to be moving ok.
3)Cleaned and greased electrical connection to solenoid.
4)Clear faults, road test - fault reappears.


They now want to book it into the garage for the day, suggesting that its an electrical fault, which is good news in the fact that its not a new turbo, but its still not cured.

Anyone have some ideas on the electrical problem? I have added the extra earth strap today with no change to the fault. MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

I would still put my money on it being the actuator. I repaired a friends Freelander a few months ago that had the same issue. After spending ages on the internet looking at possible faults all the evidence pointed to the actuator. I took it off and opened it up and it looked to be working as it should when connected up. I took a chance and bought a complete turbo for a Jaguar xK which is the same turbo and used the actuator from it.
I also took it apart and it looked to operate exactly the same as the "faulty" one. I fitted it anyway and the car ran as it should without any fault codes. it originally had 3 fault codes including P0046. The fault could be cleared and if driven with the lightest of throttle it would drive ok. Give it a little more throttle however and the engine had a little hiccup and it went into limp mode. The replacement actuator sorted it out and it has done several thousand miles problem free since!

Goddamnit!


Ill PM you DonDiddly.... MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Mine had 49K needed new turbo, driven 6ooo miles since in 3 months all still good. You may be getting correct voltage at the actuator but due to insulation breakdown/short circuits there is likely insufficient voltage to move the actuator when under load. I was in the same position as yourself but had two garages look both said it was the actuator. If you can remove the turbo there are plenty of places with do a part ex for a recon unit around £400-£500. Good Luck

Hope the info below helps especially ref the actuator link at end.

These are the turbochargers used by the Freelanders:

Engine Trim BHP Engine Code Year OEM Part Turbo Make / Model
2.0 D Td4 109 M47 2000 – 2007 7781476C03 Garrett GT17V VNT
2.0 D Di 125 20LTC 1997 – 2000 PMF100490 Garrett GT15
2.2 D 2 Td4 158 DW12B 2006 – 2011 6G9Q6K682CB Garrett GT17V
2.2 D SD4 190 188 BG 2010 – 2014 BG9Q6K682CB Mitsubishi TD04V

https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalog...tor-turbo/

Hi All,

An update for everyone, I think I have managed to (touch wood) solve the Restricted Performance issue, I have now driven the car about 100 miles with no warning codes or limp mode, so I consider this issue most probably fixed.

It was indeed what EVERYONE on here said it was; a knackered Actuator.....

As I bought the car privately there was no warranty, I couldn't justify replacing the Turbo and Actuator when it was most probably just the Actuator that was at fault, so with help from the fantastic and superbly knowledgeable DonDiddly on this forum, I dug myself under the car and whipped out the Actuator, I also tested the Turbo movement/bearings.

There is a company on eBay called EssexRecon that recondition your Actuators for a very reasonable amount, I sent mine off and it was returned 24hrs later, I refitted it and bingo! all codes gone, and it drove like a dream.

So if there is anyone else out there who would like to test the Actuator before replacing the entire turbo as well, I thoroughly recommend EssexRecon!

And if anyone wants a run down on how to remove it themselves, I will gladly help them through it  MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Bobbster wrote:

Mine had 49K needed new turbo, driven 6ooo miles since in 3 months all still good. You may be getting correct voltage at the actuator but due to insulation breakdown/short circuits there is likely insufficient voltage to move the actuator when under load. I was in the same position as yourself but had two garages look both said it was the actuator. If you can remove the turbo there are plenty of places with do a part ex for a recon unit around £400-£500. Good Luck

Hope the info below helps especially ref the actuator link at end.

These are the turbochargers used by the Freelanders:

Engine Trim BHP Engine Code Year OEM Part Turbo Make / Model
2.0 D Td4 109 M47 2000 – 2007 7781476C03 Garrett GT17V VNT
2.0 D Di 125 20LTC 1997 – 2000 PMF100490 Garrett GT15
2.2 D 2 Td4 158 DW12B 2006 – 2011 6G9Q6K682CB Garrett GT17V
2.2 D SD4 190 188 BG 2010 – 2014 BG9Q6K682CB Mitsubishi TD04V

https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalog...tor-turbo/

Hi Bobbster, many thanks for the detailed options, I completely missed the link you supplied at the bottom though!. It’s good to know that there are recon turbos available just in case.  MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

As a thank you to the forum, and to hopefully help another desperate soul, here is a guide on how to remove the infamous Turbo Actuator from a 2.2D ‘14 plate, please check your car is the same.

Get car up on Axle stands if you can, or even if you raise the front end 100mm that would work, I personally drove the car up two lengths of oak sleepers, then chocked all the wheels with the hand brake on.


1. Open Bonnet, Disconnect the battery negative.

2. Underneath the car there is the metal protection tray, held in by 6 x 14 mm bolts, remove them, and slip the tray out.

3. Get a torch and get your head right underneath the car toward the back of the engine, you’ll see the turbo hose coming straight down, mine was red in colour, this is secured to the turbo by a single Pipe fastening band. Undo the band with a flathead screwdriver or 6mm spanner/socket.

4. Follow the same pipe toward the front of the engine, remove the 13mm nut from the bracket, then the 10mm bolt from the bracket at the front. Now the entire red turbo hose should slip out and away to the left from where you’ll be working.

5. Identify the actuator, there are 3 x 8mm bolts holding it in, and one cir-clip that locks the actuator arm to the turbo arm.

6. Remove the cir-clip, a skinny flat head should do it, then disconnect the arm, pushing it out the way.

7. Remove the 3 bolts, don’t let the Actuator drop as there is a electric block connector attached.

8. Once the Actuator is out you can easily see the connector block, raise the red security tab and disconnect the block.

9. Send off the Actuator to Essex Recon, (no affiliation, they were just great).

10. While your waiting the 24 hours, check the condition of the wiring to the Actuator, check the movement of the turbo flap arm that the Actuator erm.....actuates, To make sure it’s smooth and there is nothing sticking.

11. Remove air intake hose on the other side of turbo, which is held by another flat head screwdriver pipe fastening band, and 1 x 8mm bolt on the top of the engine.

12. Once you have access, feel the turbo has no play in the bearings with your fingers, and there is no damage to the blades. (I used my phone on record to examine the insides of the turbo as it’s too hard to see.).

13. If it’s all good, put the air intake pipe back on and await the reconditioned unit.


Good luck! MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Last edited by DGL on 11th Aug 2019 9:46 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Thanks DGL for your excellent feedback and How to Do It Guide. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)