alex_pescaru wrote:

People mentioned Pagid, Mintex, Delphi...
Anyone used ATE disks and pads? How are they?

ATE are comparable with the likes of Mintex,Delphi etc so can be fitted with confidence!

I will shortly be replacing the rear pads on my 14 reg FL2 with EPB. I have the LR pads and have read up on how to get the EPB into "service mode" but I was just wondering if I need a piston retracting tool? I have done lots of brake jobs before but never with an EPB. Normally I use a G clamp or just push the pistons in by hand (if they will go in easily) but I guess that with the servo motor on the back you can't use a G clamp. Any words of wisdom? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Description in this thread, looks like you just have to put it in service mode.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic22260.htm...brake+pads (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Once in service mode you can lever the piston back with a large screwdriver or similar to give you the extra clearance needed to fit the new pads! Its quite straightforward to do

Hi I retracted my caliper piston using a clamp once the caliper was in service mode and the pads removed, I released the fluid pressure in the caliper per by opening the caliper bleed screw ( with some clear plastic pipe fitted from bleed screw to a jar the end of the pipe in the jar covered by new brake fluid so as not to let air into the system) doing it this way does as not force brake fluid back through the system and in particular the abs unit which can flip the seals. Once the caliper piston is pushed back close the bleed screw.

I have been doing some research on the issue of "flipping the seals" and there seems to be a body of evidence out there that it's a myth. Lots of people in the trade say they never bother to bleed the excess fluid off and one guy quoted from a Ford official workshop manual saying that you should just push the pistons back with a suitable tool. Any views out there? I must admit that I have used both methods. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

If the brake fluid has ever been topped up then there is always the possibility that the master cylinder will overflow causing a mess when the pistons are pushed back so if the bleed nipple can be undone easily then it is worth doing that. You have to be careful however as the bleed nipples are very easy to round off or have the head snap off if they have seized in place. Good luck! Most of the time I will check the fluid level and just push the pistons back. Never had an issue.

I just use a clean oven baster (kept specifically for brakes) to draw fluid from the master cylinder. Change the pads and then top up the master cylinder as necessary, job done ... no spillage.

I always just push the pistons back (leave the reservoir cap off and put plenty of rag around it in case it overflows). In 45 years of being in the trade, I’ve never had a seal 'flip' when pushing pistons back. When I replaced the rear pads on my Evoque (same as the FL2), in service mode I pushed the piston back using a retracting tool as a large pair of grips may have damaged the motor housing but they were the easiest pistons I’ve ever pushed and I probably could have done them by hand. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Bobupndown wrote:

So set of pads £21 inc vat from local motor factors.
Popped them in this afternoon, dead simple. Electronic hand brake service mode accessed as described above. (Thanks again AJ918)
Rear pad life wasnt great, 27000 miles only and they were literally just about worn out, I wonder does the electronic handbrake cause them to wear more, as every time you pull away there is that little drag as the brake releases?

(My wife's VW Tiguan needs rear discs and pads and cant be fitted without access to diagnostic software to disengage the handbrake motors so looking at between £150 - £250 depending on either indy of main dealer doing the work )

The VCDS leads are about £350 and the aftermarket copies do not get a great reptation, have considered one but wary about doing more harm than good. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I have used both, the only difference is the Chinese interface cable won't support the latest cars, but I have done most stuff
Using the Chinese one for a month when my official Ilexa broke
They do a 3 car only model for just over 200 quid,with full support,google ILEXA, they are one of the uk agents for vagcom which is American based.

The Chinese one won't break anything I assure you, you download the same software as the original
Look at the vagcom site, vagcom is not official anyway, only under licence from vw, but you will be able to correctly reset the service intervals as well, in all locations such as Kim's since last service,service type etc etc, as well as release brakes etc.

Just like the Chinese copies of Citroen lexia/ Peugeot planet....works perfect,

Mercedes star Chinese version c3 and c4 been using them for over 10 yrs,£700 but better than a Mercedes subscription and official star machine...even got developer programme that dealers don't have!

So for your vw I demo recommend buying vagcom, even at 230 quid it will pay for itself over and over

Does anyone happen to know the torque wrench setting for caliper guide pin bolts on a MY 14 with EPB? My Haynes manual doesn't cover it. Just says 22ftlbs for the older version. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I doubt they are any different from the non-EPB brakes - the guide pins always seem set at a low torque setting; Ive done a few different cars and basically they're all the similar . Jules

Today changed my rear disks and pads - 64 plate at 37K miles . Were the originals.

Caught me by surprise as the visible outboard pads had 3mm left and I was going to do a formal check when the weather was warmer.

But yesterday the rear nearside brake started graunching. The inboard pad had lost all its friction material. Both disks were below minimum thickness of 10mm too.



Easy job though.

(PS Anyone know why this website keeps rotating my pics and can you stop it) Jules