Hi,

UK based for what its's worth.

My wife has a 2007 Freelander 2. Last week, driving back, aux belt destroyed itself. I had changed it a few months ago, including tensioners so this was odd.

We always had a bit of a rattle which we could never find.

AA guy comes out, we try and start the car despite no belt, no go. He says he thinks the Aux belt mixed in with Cam belt and timing is out / no compression. I did spot that the altenator pulley had failed and moved over, likely the cause of the failed belt.

We tow the car home.

I scan and see Crank Sensor 1 is not reading correctly. P0336. Ive also just noted that it says Camshaft sensor also not reading, P0341 Error. (I hadnt spotted this till now when typing this post, so might know the answer ... )

We then checked, took the wheel off and the cambelt cant be interferred with, the plastic cover stops this. That said, I can see the belt running a bit off the pulley, ie, a few mm to the side ...

Ordered a new Crank sensor, fitted it today, car still wont start.

I can measure some voltages, I can see 5V but then I also get circa 7V. Should I get 12 on the other pin? Checked pin lengths on the new sensor, its a cheap Amazon one but the same as the OEM one. The OEM one has wear on the sensor, can actually see the Integrated Chip ....

So, fuses checked.

With the cam sensor also showing an error, what would be common?

Thanks

There are two crank sensors if you have the wrong one it will not match the trigger wheel. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Chazaxl wrote:

Hi,

UK based for what its's worth.

My wife has a 2007 Freelander 2. Last week, driving back, aux belt destroyed itself. I had changed it a few months ago, including tensioners so this was odd.

We always had a bit of a rattle which we could never find.

AA guy comes out, we try and start the car despite no belt, no go. He says he thinks the Aux belt mixed in with Cam belt and timing is out / no compression. I did spot that the altenator pulley had failed and moved over, likely the cause of the failed belt.

We tow the car home.

I scan and see Crank Sensor 1 is not reading correctly. P0336. Ive also just noted that it says Camshaft sensor also not reading, P0341 Error. (I hadnt spotted this till now when typing this post, so might know the answer ... )

We then checked, took the wheel off and the cambelt cant be interferred with, the plastic cover stops this. That said, I can see the belt running a bit off the pulley, ie, a few mm to the side ...

Ordered a new Crank sensor, fitted it today, car still wont start.

I can measure some voltages, I can see 5V but then I also get circa 7V. Should I get 12 on the other pin? Checked pin lengths on the new sensor, its a cheap Amazon one but the same as the OEM one. The OEM one has wear on the sensor, can actually see the Integrated Chip ....

So, fuses checked.

With the cam sensor also showing an error, what would be common?

Thanks

Cam sensor on top of engine once you get the cover and organ pipes of you should see it . 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Chazaxl wrote:

Chazaxl wrote:

Hi,

UK based for what its's worth.

My wife has a 2007 Freelander 2. Last week, driving back, aux belt destroyed itself. I had changed it a few months ago, including tensioners so this was odd.

We always had a bit of a rattle which we could never find.

AA guy comes out, we try and start the car despite no belt, no go. He says he thinks the Aux belt mixed in with Cam belt and timing is out / no compression. I did spot that the altenator pulley had failed and moved over, likely the cause of the failed belt.

We tow the car home.

I scan and see Crank Sensor 1 is not reading correctly. P0336. Ive also just noted that it says Camshaft sensor also not reading, P0341 Error. (I hadnt spotted this till now when typing this post, so might know the answer ... )

We then checked, took the wheel off and the cambelt cant be interferred with, the plastic cover stops this. That said, I can see the belt running a bit off the pulley, ie, a few mm to the side ...

Ordered a new Crank sensor, fitted it today, car still wont start.

I can measure some voltages, I can see 5V but then I also get circa 7V. Should I get 12 on the other pin? Checked pin lengths on the new sensor, its a cheap Amazon one but the same as the OEM one. The OEM one has wear on the sensor, can actually see the Integrated Chip ....

So, fuses checked.

With the cam sensor also showing an error, what would be common?

Thanks

Thanks. It looks identical. The only difference is the one has 2 'ribs' and one has 3. IE, the plastic strength members etc.

That error is now gone. Its now just the cam sensor showing. Is that top of engine? I need to check the wiring for that, I suspect the belt ripped wiring off but need to see where / how for the cam.

The original Crank error goes away with the new sensor so I assume that now works but no start as cam still showing ...

OK, took the top cover and inlet off. I can see a plug left rear of engine. Is this it? I had it disconnected earlier as I was trying to trace the wires from the bottom but its not the same wires.

Ive reset codes, as soon as I try and start, it comes back. Any idea how a failed Aux belt can kill both these at the same time? What's common to them?

I can order one to replace but dont understand how it could have failed too. Car turns over, sounds like it has compression, then it 'sounds' like it has no more compression after a while. Is there something opening / changing a valve? Odd.

That is the cam sensor alright cannot see how a failed drive belt would kill both CPS and CS are definately sure the cambelt has not jumped a few teeth? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Thanks. Nor do I.

I simply dont see how the cambelt could have been impacted. It sits behind a plastic cover. If you look at the crank, the belt is well hidden. I dont see evidence of any belt in that area, so difficult to understand.

It does 'feel' like its skipped but I dont understand how. How easily can I confirm timing? I'm aware I think there are 2 x 8mm holes that need to be correct.

If its moved 1 tooth for example, would the engine be toast?

There was a post on here a while ago that a failed drive belt had caused a cambelt to jump thats why I asked, but as you say if the plastic outer cam cover is intact cannot see how it can happen see if I can find it. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40040.html 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Thanks, reading the thread. Seem similar. That said, I dont have an Engine Light on at all ...

Do I need to take the starter motor off for the flywheel pin location? I'm struggling to see where the lower pin goes. I can see the top on the cam ... but not the bottom.

Yes starter motor needs to come off to get pins in. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

An update. Took everything apart. Timing marks not matching. Looked to be about a tooth off.

Took crank pulley off, nasty ....

Not even sure how it can only be a tooth out. Reassembled to test after realigning everything. Wont run. Found a pipe I had forgotten to put back, battery flat. Charged battery, no go. One splutter.

Removed all, checked timing, its correct. I hear no noise when trying to start but compression feels low when I rotate the engine via crank.

How can I tell if Ive got other damage?

Im charging battery overnight, will try again tomorrow.

One turn of crank = half turn of cam, correct? So every 2nd time I see the crank hole, the cam will be 180 degrees out, correct?

Anything else I can check? Not getting the cam error code anymore either ...



Thanks

I asume you have replaced the timing belt and timed everything up correctly, if so and its still not starting you need to go deeper these engines will break the rockers if timing has slipped and worse case scenario is bent valves ive done a few of these and sometimes you will get away with a few broken rockers, you need to remove the cam belt and pull all the common rail off then the plastic breather cover then finally the cam cover also HP fuel pump and VAC pump

Out of interest how old and what milage had the Auxiliery belt done before it shredded?

Thanks. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.