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LR2goat



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 16

2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Baltic Blue
Steering Lock Module

[Skip to below if you don't like backstories]
So about a year ago I replaced the battery which appeared to be rather old. Since then it's died on me over a dozen times. In the that period I've always been lucky to have my NOCO GB40 with me when on the road or at home I have my battery tender. Hell once I was even on my way to go fishing on my inflatable boat and used my boat battery to get me home.

In the last year I've done battery draw tests and found nothing notable. That said, in each of these instances my battery was resting under 12V when I went to try to start.

Now a month ago, it left me stranded waiting 3 hours with my wife for a tow. Then it occurred to me that the display was always indicating "steering column locked" when the car wouldn't start. So when they towed the car home I pulled the column and took a look at the Volvo stamped lock to see what I was looking at. Then the next day the car fired right up before I could even do anything. Shrugged my shoulders and wrote it off to the electrical mysteries of life.

Two weeks later I was at a festival with my wife and the car wouldn't start again at 11.8V even with my jump box bringing it to 12.5V. Then some nice old lady asked me if I needed a jump. Sucked up my man pride and graciously accepted the jump. Says to me sure my husband will be right back with the truck I'll have him jump your car. Sure enough he pulled up in a new Ford F-350 Super Duty with the 6.7L turbo diesel (for a pleasant change this was a truly American moment)! With the jumpers attached I tried starting it but nothing. Then a few minutes later I decided to whack the steering lock module and still nothing. Last attempt without hitting the steering lock...sure enough the LR fired right up.

Given this I assumed maybe my battery was just dying prematurely and perhaps if this didn't work it was the alternator diode that was shot. Put in a new battery an all was well for two more weeks. Then yesterday dead as can be but still not taking to jump or fully charged battery. This solidified it for me being the steering column lock so here comes my advice.

[Good stuff starts here]
In looking for solutions other than tapping the lock module with a screwdriver or taking the thing to the dealership to be replaced and recoded ($1000+), I found a hodgepodge of information. Below are the links that you can use as a reference to help you in the "steering column locked" situation in addition to my tips along the way.

-Remove trim around steering wheel. I'm not going to go into how to remove the trim around the steering column as that's just 2 torx bolts and some prying.
-Pry small trim piece at end of dashboard between dashboard and the door to gain access to behind the dashboard
-Take Dremel or rotary tool with cutting wheel and cut a slot for a flathead into each of the two security bolts holding the module onto the column. Be careful doing this not to cut any wires! You will need to tilt and telescope the column a lot during this process and others to find the optimal positions for the task at hand. When cutting the slots be keep it as straight as you can onto the head of the bolt so you have a good contact surface to remove the bolts. Photos of the bolts can be seen here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/attachme...g_3348.jpg
-Next to remove the bolts you just slotted you will likely want* a ratchet with probably 16" of extensions (I pieced together a 12" and a 4") on it then a flathead screwdriver socket at the end. For this I put a screwdriver bit into a socket with tape on it to keep it in place. Sadly don't own the proper tool for the job. Then you will want to go in from that opening on the side of the dashboard by the door. From here simply guide the screwdriver bit with your free hand over by the bolt. I found this much easier than the small stubby screwdriver method for the side that's on the door at least.
-Now for the console side you will likely have to use that unfortunate stubby screwdriver and move the column backwards to get more space to work with. If you have a really good small ratchet and the correct socket perhaps that will work for you easier.
-Once you have this bolt out remove all the wires from the module if you haven't already and remove the harness.
-Remove the module from the car
-Now from here you will need to reference this guys video as it's really the key here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKCAlsrl1jg
-I also suggest viewing the pics on pages 4 and 5 here just so you have some idea of how the darn thing looks inside http://lr-club.com/index.php?showtopic=108976&st=30
-What worked for me was praying some penetrating oil onto the lock deadbolt as shown in the video then tapping with a hammer from all angles. If this doesn't work then you might have to use needle-nose pliers but that's probably a plan B at that point.
-Then once I got the deadbolt to become unseized I sprayed some lube onto the deadbolt and worked it in. Just enough for it to start working smoothly again.
-I wrapped it into bubble wrap as suggested in the video with the holes needed cutout. Then taped it back into the dash area around the column to stop it from moving laterally around turns. Though to be honest I'm not sure what I'll do in the long run.
-Plug the harness back in
-Start car
-Save $$$$????

****Just my disclaimer here: I take no responsibility for any resulting damages and I myself have only just completed this job. I can't say I know how it will hold up in the long run even for myself**** Though the comments people left on the youtube video were encouraging!

Post #360995 24th Nov 2018 7:09 am
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