I own a 58 FL2 td4s. I've just noticed two rust blisters above both rear wheel arches. They seem to have started from underneath the paintwork & worked outwards. I'm disappointed that a 5.5 year old vehicle has rust/paintwork issues. Could this be a design/manifacture fault? Anyone else experienced this problem?
Thanks. Landy has now gone.

There is a paintwork warrenty, which iirc is 6 years

Worth asking your dealer if you kept up with the paintwork checks

I bought the Freelander when it was 4 years old, had fsh, not full main dealer history. So does not have all paintwork checks. Saying that, unless there's actually a hole, which there's not. I'd be suprised if Land Rover would do anything about it. That's my experience with other manufacturers anyway.
May be worth a call to customer services. To see what they say.
One one side of the wheel arch, the blister is around 4 iches up from the wheel arch. On the other, it's on the wheel arch. Started with a blister, without exterior damage to the paintwork.
The two blisters are very small at the moment, prob less than 5mm across. Started at a tiny bubble around a year ago.
Thanks for info. Landy has now gone.

Last edited by Boroboy on 30th Mar 2014 12:16 am. Edited 1 time in total

get the ACF-50 out

The under wheel arch plastic trims are in place, don't think it's ever been used off road. As rest of bodywork is immaculate. I'm thinking perhaps some sort of body weld during the manufacture process may be to blame. Should of had anti corrosion sealant then. Have a chips away guy around the corner, may see if he can sort the paint. Landy has now gone.

Please may I add a few comments for consideration.
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There is rust and there is rot.
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Rust is the beginning of the process and starts at the surface from typically a stone chip but can sometimes travel under the paint skin and develop to enlarge itself.
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Rot starts again at the surface but typically would be from the inside between steel panels. The close proximity of the inner and outer wheelarches will attract moisture and a corrosion 'cell' will set in and the rust grow until it penetrates through to the outside.
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If you search on here for the post on 'corrosion' ive added more notes on the chemical theory bit of rusting.
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For rust you need to abrade off the crusting, wire brush what's visibly left. Once you think you've done it the area then needs a rust killer which will convert the specs of remaining rust in to an inert compound. Then you can start with anti rust etch primers, undercoat and gloss / laquer.
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For Rot you need to do the above and find a professional bodyshop who can Lead solder the hole before the rectification work.
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Polyester fillers will only do a temporary job on a rot hole as they are absorbent to moisture from the rear and rust will begin again.
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For either repairs the rear area needs a copious application of such as diluted Waxoyl to waterproof the repair.
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If you use a 'proper' bodyshop they will use two pack paints which mimic the factory finish, most 'chip' repairers will use lesser technical paints an most wont have the life of two pack however the critical point for either is to find an individual character who understands what rust is and how it needs to be killed.
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Hope something above might give you inspiration on what process and who to use.
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Kind regards from Fred
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More good stuff Fred

When I took my 'duff' Freelander to my local LR dealer to see if any of the corrosion was covered by the LR Approved Warranty, they told me that essentially it only covers rust from the inside out - 'rot' in your parlance?
They also told me there is zero underbody protection applied to new Land Rovers, which surprised me..

Rust in these areas is usually down to dirt and debris trapping moisture,a good hose under the arches now and agin is a good idea.

Many new build cars don't have what we all used to call underseal.
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Today most of the steel is pre treated with an electrical finish called zintec. It's shere they put an electric current to the plate in a tank and the metal Zinc is deposited onto and into the surface grains of the steel. The metal is pressed to shape and cut out. This leaves the cut edges as plain steel. When the body is welded special seam sealers are used where necessary and the body is sprayed with an etch primer which often contains more zinc before the two pack paint. Wheel arches now have plastic liners and sills have plastic covers.
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So basically exposed metal is minimised underneath because if the plastics and those areas that are exposed already have the zinc plate, zinc primer and two pack, even where scratches occurr the zinc tends to self heal a bit.
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All thus severely retards the corrosion process so its not often we see rusty cars.
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So the dealer is correct in one sense that underseal isn't seen however it does have the other technical finishes.
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Kind regards from Fred.
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 A Land Rover owner since 1988

From a 1974 series III to a 12MY XS FL2 with help of a 1995 D1, 1996 D1, 2005 D3, 2007 D3 and a 2009 FL2.

Last edited by gstd4-e on 31st Mar 2014 3:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Sounds to me like the car has had a bad repair in the past, as Freeelander 2's are not re known for rusting.

I was going to comment about the underside protection, but Fred has summed it up perfectly. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

Fred,
Thanks for taking the time to post the information.
Basically it's corrosion that has started from the inside out. Not down to any stone chips or previous bad repairs.
Inspected my wife's FR2 closer today. There are more bubbles, around 10 or more in total. Located on different body panels around the vehicle. Mainly the rear end panels, above wheel arches. Some on rear door panels (both sides). At least one on front wing. So not good, I'm afraid. The general condition of the paintwork is very good. The blisters seem to start at around 1mm in size, then slowly increase over time. The largest one at around 5mm now.
This is the first time I've noticed blistering on a relatively modern vehicle.
Worked on plenty in the 80's (showing my age). Rust then, was quite normal.
The landy also spent the first 3 years of it's life in the Outer Hebrides. So not sure if the climate would have helped any.

I will upload some photo's when I get chance. Landy has now gone.

If the blister is a begins as a spot say 5mm from any edge then its most likely from the rear, ie the inside of the car and I would define it as rot.
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I have mentioned elsewhere on corrosion that 'Rust' is definitive to steel or iron.
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Rust is an oxide compound and to get it you need 'steel; plus oxygen; plus water', Take any one out of the formula and rust cannot live and expand. (OK somebody out there will say that water is H20).
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So the quicker you can dig out the blister to a hole and then fill with lead the better.
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Then the rear needs the treatment of Waxoyl, (or similar), to seal and waterproof the inside wheelarch. the repair needs doing first before the Leading because to melt the lead needs a blowtorch / gastorch for the heat. The Waxoyl (or similar) does the bit of keeping oxygen and water off the hidden areas that are already rusting in the hidden areas.
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The basic problem at the wheelarches is that Landrover are I believe using out of date technology to join the rear wing to the inner wheelarch because they have a flange on each component which is then spot welded. Take a look at for example a Vauxhall Corsa; General Motors technology is to glue the two components and neatly roll over the wing edge underneath the inner wing. Landrover use this technique on other panels such as the bonnet as we saw at the recent factory visit. Within reason glued joints don't rot compared to a spot weld joint where heat burnt the metal at the assembly stage.
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I am sure that this 'inbuilt corrosion trap' will be designed out of the next freelanders, if not the please will Mike at Landrover take note.
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Kind regards from Fred.
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Fred,
Thanks for info.
The blisters have now started on other parts of the body too. Including the door skins & front wing. These are small at the moment, around 1-2mm. I would expect them to increase, with time. So may be time for the landy to go.
It's 5.5 years old, covered 74k from new & I'm the third owner. Landy has now gone.

Will a car dealer salesman spot the blisters ?
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If yes then it would be wise to use the local rapid repair ie 'smart-repair' and get rid within 1-4 weeks before it shows through again. Perhaps best not say to the repairer that you are getting rid so as to get his best job.
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Please let us know how you get on. You ought to be able to ask the dealer for a look at the log book of the next Landy to check that you are buying a car that has been located in southern England yet well away from a seaside resort. This corrosion shouldn't put you off the Freeley; I think you've unfortunately bought one that's been in the wrong climate.
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PS my Wife thinks the Hebrides atmospher could be air well laden with sea salt.
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Kind regards from Fred
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