Thats how my FL2 2007 sounds when i brake. Decent amount of life left in the pads, have taken the brakes apart and applied copper grease (even though some say dont). Stopped it for a week and now it is back. Any suggestions (other than reapplying the copper grease every week!!)

Cheers

Don't.

Get another set of pads, they are easy to install. Have done it on previous cars. Haven't needed to do the pads on the Freelander yet.

Don't chuck out the old ones, get them re-shoed so you can exchange them with the other set when the time comes. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Original pads from LR or something else? We have repco and supercheap over here...thanks

On my previous car I bought a new original set. Had the car 18 years. Then when I got them re-shoed I had 'metal' pads bonded on the fittings. They had far less carbon in them. They lasted much longer & braked better with far less brake dust as well, & the surface area of the actual pad was a touch larger. They also could have been 1mm thicker as well. They didn't seem to wear the discs any quicker either.

I would try Repco. I think all the pads on the Freelander are from Volvo.

Search the threads & I am sure something will pop up on the subject.


Front pistons you can usually push out by hand. Rear pistons you do need a piston spreader. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I tried everything on mine before I finally sorted it. Pads, pads and discs, cleaning, lubricating, pads again was getting on my nerves. See my last post and pictures in this thread.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic15628.html Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Don't think it's the back brakes since i changed the back pads and it happened before and after, plus we defo id'd it from the front brakes. Will double check though.

So I’ve noticed a couple of things. If I put the car through the car wash it quitend the squealing for a while (up to a day or two). Service garage have squirted the brakes with cleaner, does the same thing again on a temporary basis. Would this suggest the squealing could be dust/debris from the pads causing the issue and when it is washed out it stops? (Doesn’t happen in the rain mind) Cheers

Are the anti-squeal shims in place? Are they OK?

Nah there’s no shims - I didn’t think LR2 had them? Copper grease has been applied though

The LR supplied replacement rear shoes didn’t come with shims either

According to the Haynes manual the pads should have shims which should NOT be lubricated.

Cool, I’ll try and track some down over here in NZ

So I rang the local LR dealer here in Auckland. He looked at the part catalogue and said they don’t have brake squeal shims ....now I’m confused !!

Had recently replaced my discs and pads all round and there are no shims.

Also LR recommendation is not to use copper slip or any grease. FL2 now gone and have a couple of items left for sale:-

Brodit active iPhone holder + Brodit dash clip,
Bluetooth Music Streaming Module.

Still squeaking away after all this time (was hoping they would have righted themselves by now). Had a listen at the weekend and narrowed it down to the two front brakes, attached is a photo of the drivers side front brake, to my untrained eye this looks to have plenty of meat left on it, is this the case? Cheers

Yes there is plenty of life in them it does look as if the discs have a lip on them