charlesp
Member Since: 12 Mar 2017
Location: Dorset
Posts: 42
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Best to google :
Panasonic VL2330-1HFE Battery
That way you'll get a selection on Amazon or whatever and you can buy the one that suits you best in terms of delivery etc.
Mine arrived yesterday, and I've just done the job. The exact location of the soldered is obviously important, and I have to report that the job of desoldering the contacts is a right pain in the ****. The plastic support is click-locked onto the board and is again a bit of a pain to remove.
Again if you google "Freelander 2 key fob replacement video" there's a YouTube video of just that, and the chap in it explains what you have to do. In my experience the thinner of the two lugs (or perhaps I should call them contacts" is a pain to desolder; even with my solder sucker it wasn't quick or fun.
My fob originally arrived in bits - the previous owner had bought a similar size button cell, taken a closer look and realised there was more to it than at first thought. But the fob did work - once or twice, then a journey with that fob in the ignition might give it enough charge for another go. So the fob itself obviously worked, the question was "Is the battery dead, or is it the inductive charging gubbins on the board dead?"
My fob now works the locks and the vehicle will start using it, so the contacts are good. What I won't know just yet is if the charging is working. The rechargeable battery comes with a charge in it, so I'll have to cart it around using it for a while until I learn more. If it dies I'll just have to assume the fob is dead, if it keeps on going then maybe it's worked!
OK it was cheaper this way, but would I do it again? No I would send it to one those guys mentioned earlier. There are delicate things on that board, and unless you have the right size iron, a solder sucker, and the experience there's a danger that more damage may be done.
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29th Mar 2017 3:08 pm |
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