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mad85



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Naxxar
Posts: 40

Malta 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue
changing rear discs - disaster!!

well, so I went to change the rear disc on my freelander 2 and all of a sudden a rubber piece came off and the brake fluid started pouring out.

As you can see in the picture attached, it is the rubber around the piston which came right off.



Is there any way how I can push it back in? I tried using a flat screw but i was not able to put it back in! and i did not try too hard since I was afraid of damaging the rubber.


Last edited by mad85 on 11th Feb 2017 4:29 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #317277 11th Feb 2017 4:27 pm
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mad85



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Naxxar
Posts: 40

Malta 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

i see now it should have been in the maintenance section ... sry!

Post #317278 11th Feb 2017 4:28 pm
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Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4109

United Kingdom 

I suppose your best hope is to put it in maintenance mode, unbolt the motor from the rear of the calliper and refit the piston. To make it easier I'd suggest camping the hose, removing the calliper, remove the bleed screw and doing it on a bench. Should go back in without too much trouble as long as it is forced in straight. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #317279 11th Feb 2017 4:46 pm
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mad85



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Naxxar
Posts: 40

Malta 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

thanks for your reply - what do you mean by camping the hose?

Post #317281 11th Feb 2017 5:05 pm
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

There are special brake hose clamps or use mole grips with low pressure to stop fluid escaping from the rubber hoses.

As an apprentice working on Jaguars at the main dealers nearly 50 years ago. We would strip the Dunlop calipers fully and get really fine wet and dry paper and with paraffin clean the pistons and bores etc . Once clean and dry we used a new rubber kit to rebuild with a little new fluid and specialist rubber grease. Pressing the pistons back in had to be done slowly and straight. No throwaway parts then. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #317285 11th Feb 2017 5:29 pm
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Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4109

United Kingdom 

mad85 wrote:
thanks for your reply - what do you mean by camping the hose?


Clamping. My typo! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #317290 11th Feb 2017 7:07 pm
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Past master



Member Since: 30 Jun 2010
Location: Isle of Ely
Posts: 2710

United Kingdom 

The brake manufacturers make special clamps which don't damage the hose. Should be widely available. I've got one I bought years ago but never needed to use. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Post #317311 11th Feb 2017 11:30 pm
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westville



Member Since: 12 Jun 2015
Location: Dunston
Posts: 1096

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Fuji White

Yorky Bob wrote:
There are special brake hose clamps or use mole grips with low pressure to stop fluid escaping from the rubber hoses.

As an apprentice working on Jaguars at the main dealers nearly 50 years ago. We would strip the Dunlop calipers fully and get really fine wet and dry paper and with paraffin clean the pistons and bores etc . Once clean and dry we used a new rubber kit to rebuild with a little new fluid and specialist rubber grease. Pressing the pistons back in had to be done slowly and straight. No throwaway parts then.

God that takes me back did the same at Technical College in the 60s - where did the years go? No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Post #317325 12th Feb 2017 8:51 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4354

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

I once had a caliper bleed nipple sheer off on my Morris Marina so I removed the caliper and set of to the dealer. The guy at the parts dept said that calipers were very expensive and it would take ages to get one so he recommended getting a set of drills and carefully drilling it out until I could get a screw extractor or small screwdriver in the hole. It took me all afternoon with a hand drill but I did it. He even gave me a new bleed nipple. Can't see anyone getting that sort of advice or service these days. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #317331 12th Feb 2017 10:37 am
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mad85



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Naxxar
Posts: 40

Malta 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

thanks for the replies guys. managed to put the seal back in and compress the piston. Now I just need to bleed the system.. unfortunately a lot of fluid came out so I think i will have to flush the whole thing.

ps, this video shows a good way of compressing the piston if you missed on putting the epb in maintenance mode:

Post #317335 12th Feb 2017 11:37 am
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

dorsetfreelander wrote:
I once had a caliper bleed nipple sheer off on my Morris Marina so I removed the caliper and set of to the dealer. The guy at the parts dept said that calipers were very expensive and it would take ages to get one so he recommended getting a set of drills and carefully drilling it out until I could get a screw extractor or small screwdriver in the hole. It took me all afternoon with a hand drill but I did it. He even gave me a new bleed nipple. Can't see anyone getting that sort of advice or service these days.


This is the sort of tool that could still save money:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/423...iZXcsfx_dc|pcrid|88057066443|pkw||pmt||prd|4236685&gclid=CN-tuZvFitICFQEG0wodibkFgA FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #317337 12th Feb 2017 12:20 pm
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

mad85 wrote:
thanks for the replies guys. managed to put the seal back in and compress the piston. Now I just need to bleed the system.. unfortunately a lot of fluid came out so I think i will have to flush the whole thing.

ps, this video shows a good way of compressing the piston if you missed on putting the epb in maintenance mode:



Lots of workshop practice that would have seen my arse kicked as an apprentice. Rolling Eyes

Use of tools as hammer. ?
Muck on the new working surfaces etc etc etc.
Ass about face checking fluid level.
I would be using copper grease in some areas (sparingly) on rebuild of disc etc.

Those bolts with a coloured film I guess will only work at a set torque as the old sports cars were wired on or had spring washers when not using a torque wrench.

Feel free to add more views you boys still in the better end of the trade. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #317339 12th Feb 2017 12:41 pm
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mad85



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Naxxar
Posts: 40

Malta 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

so, the rubber seal broke while I was trying to put it together and since it does not come as a repair kit, I had to order the whole caliper, for around 200eur Sad hope i receive it soon at least. I am also less concerned that I might introduce dirt in the system when the rubber seal came off now.

Now, my next question: The situation I suspect is that I will have one caliper that is extended and the new one which will be retracted. Will this cause any issues with the electric parking brake? I think it makes sense that before I connect the motor, I set the EPB to maintenance mode so it also retracts the other one... does that make sense?

Thanks!

Post #317418 13th Feb 2017 1:58 pm
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westville



Member Since: 12 Jun 2015
Location: Dunston
Posts: 1096

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Fuji White

I would advise you to put the EPB in maintenance mode anyway just to be safe - then when you turn it off both calipers will be activated evenly
Get some pictures of before and after so we can all see the problem you are fixing
Good Luck Thumbs Up No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Post #317419 13th Feb 2017 2:07 pm
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Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4109

United Kingdom 

[quote="Yorky Bob"]

mad85 wrote:
Those bolts with a coloured film I guess will only work at a set torque as the old sports cars were wired on or had spring washers when not using a torque wrench.

Feel free to add more views you boys still in the better end of the trade.


The 'coloured film' on the bolts that you refer to is threadlock - a non-hardening glue that is the modern equivalent of spring washers or wiring the bolts. Caliper carrier bracket bolts and caliper bolts should always be torqued up correctly. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #317429 13th Feb 2017 6:02 pm
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