I've a 2013 and have just bought 20l of JWS 3324 from smiths.

Quote:

I have been looking at which ATF to use and it appears to be a bit of a mine field, can I ask why you used that particular auto transmission fluid not that particular brand but the specification, if I am reading the label on your photo correctly it is JWS 3309 specification, It was my understanding, and I stand to be corrected on this, that after 2011 the specification was changed to a AW-1 with JWS 3324 rating, perhaps someone who has with more indepth LR knowledge would be kind enough to confirm the correct ATF for a 2014 model as I what to make sure I use the correct type.

As you say it is a mine field with recommendations about oil grades,

Check out this link:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/gearbo.../mf-aisin#

It seems that I may have bought the older spec oil then? It is recommended for Aisin autoboxes. In any event its going to be better than the oil that was in there after 65000 miles and shifts seem to be very smooth. Im sure it will not be an issue. My plan is to change it much more frequently now, Im thinking I will drop the 3+ litres from the drain plug at every engine oil change.

10 litres is exactly the right amount when using the method I did, to me using the dump and fill method on numerous occasions is too wasteful. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

3324 is a higher spec oil, and suitable for both the early and late boxes

Bobupndown wrote:

Well I changed my autobox oil today.
At 65k miles it was about time.



I used 10 litres of Mannol ATF (of the correct spec) got it on ebay for £32.99 delivered, including a 20% discount code.




Decided to drain the box then re fill the same amount, 3.7 litres initially.

I then removed the bottom pipe coming from the oil cooler (I CAN CONFIRM THAT IT IS INDEED THE BOTTOM PIPE YOU NEED TO REMOVE) and drained around 3 litres on 2 occasions with my son operating the engine. By the end of the second purge fairly red fresh oil was coming out.



All well and good up to that point!

Reconnected the pipe and tightened it up. Started the car and let it idle in each gear posotion for a few seconds. Before taking it for a drive I looked underneath only to see ATF running out of the pipe connection! Took it apart again to discover that the o ring had split. Oh Naturally Id not bought one for the job. Went to my local motor factor and got 2 similar sized O rings. Unfortunately neither of these were correct size and it was still leaking

At this stage I had a bit of luck, I went hoking through my tool cabinet and located some genuine LR O rings which Id had since changing injector seals on my Td5 Disco, a perfect fit!



All sorted and level checked. A fairly easy job which was nearly derailed due to a little rubber O ring!

Fortunately my cat is an auto gearbox expert and was on hand to offer advice!

No, I drained 3 litres then switched it off, added 3 litres of new oil then repeated the drain of a further 3 litres. By the end of the second drain the oil was fairly bright red so confident the majority of the old oil had been removed. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I going to do it this way next time - seems more straight forward - just needs 2 people. But I'll have some new O rings to hand . LR003125 Jules

Thank you so much for the description. I've changed 1 lot today and the difference is superb. Its a 2011 SD4 with 99700 on clock. It's been snatchy, lumpy and whiney for a while. I haven't had an auto until now so never tackled ATF change. I've put Smith and Allan in but think I need some more as its not close to cherry red yet. No smell though. Thanks again.

I just change 3.5 quarts of ATF every 10,000 miles

Miles Original 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th
00000 7 ________________________________
50000 3.50 3.50 ____________________________
60000 1.75 1.75 3.50 _______________________
70000 0.88 0.88 1.75 3.50 ___________________
80000 0.44 0.44 0.88 1.75 3.50 ________________
90000 0.22 0.22 0.44 0.88 1.75 3.50 ______________
100000 0.11 0.11 0.22 0.44 0.88 1.75 3.50 _____________
110000 0.05 0.05 0.11 0.22 0.44 0.88 1.75 3.50 ___________
120000 0.03 0.03 0.05 0.11 0.22 0.44 0.88 1.75 3.50 ________

After 8 changes I have
50% ATF with 0 miles
25% ATF with 10,000 miles
12.5% ATF with 20,000 miles
6.25% ATF with 30,000 miles
3.13% ATF with 40,000 miles
1.56% ATF with 50,000 miles
0.78% ATF with 60,000 miles
0.39% ATF with 70,000 miles
0.39% ATF with 120,000 miles

^^^^^^^ I have done mine 5 times to date since Jan 2019..........I am guessing it's about 60-70% fresh. One more time this year is "the plan", 45,000 kms since I have owned it, total 196XXX kms.

Sealed for Life - bull!

&ab_channel=AutoExpertJohnCadogan Jules

Hi,

This post is quite old and I belive the photos have been removed because of that, does any one have the "GEARBOX FILLER CAP (LOWER CENTRE) VIEWED FROM ABOVE" photo please, just so I'm sure what I'm looking for.

Thanks

dunkley201 wrote:

Freelander 2 Auto Gear box Oil Change (TD4 MY07 to 12)

The specified ATF capacity is 7 litres of Esso JWS3309US (LR002748). In my case I found Mobil ATF3309 meets the identical specification and offered better value using forum sponsor Opie Oils.

I used the �Dump & Fill� method. (This method changes approximately 3 litres ATF each time)

Important Note: Cleanliness is essential when working with the auto gearbox. Slightest ingress of dirt or grit can lead to major expense.

Tools required
A pair of sturdy ramps plus a pair of axle stands to level the vehicle once the front is on the ramps. Alternatively borrow a garage 4-poster lift as I did!
T55 Torx bit � for the fill plug.
17mm hex plug adapter (male driver) � for the main drain plug.
T40 Torx bit � for the �integrated level plug� (found within the main drain plug).
13mm socket or spanner � for the lower engine cover bolts (x6) � mine were so worn I found a 1/2� AF socket worked better!
Spill tray or bowls plus clear plastic bottle or bottles to hold at least 3 litres of fluid per change. Tip: mark the bottles beforehand with graduated quantities to establish exactly how much has been drained.
2 plastic funnels to aid draining into the bottles and refill.
A supply of CLEAN rags plus I recommend a box of disposable latex gloves as the ATF can be harmful to skin.

Spares required
A minimum of 4 litres ATF fluid (I bought 10 litres & used 9)
LR000869 & LR00867 Seals, (O rings) For filler plug and integrated level plug.
LR002461 Gasket, Drain Plug (alloy crush washer)

Torque settings
Filler Plug 30nm
Drain Plug 45nm
Integrated level plug 8nm



GEARBOX FILLER CAP (LOWER CENTRE) VIEWED FROM ABOVE


GEARBOX DRAIN PLUG, WITH LEVEL PLUG IN CENTRE


REPLACEMENT SEALS

The Dump & Fill Method
Open the bonnet and locate the filler plug which can be seen below the Air Filter casing. Ensure the plug and area around the plug is absolutely clean before you start. You do not want the slightest of debris to enter the gearbox once the plug is removed!
Using the T55 Torx bit and appropriate � drive extensions etc, �Crack open� the plug but leave hand tight. (Mine was really tight, needing a breaker bar)
Raise the vehicle on ramps/axle stands so as to gain easy access below the engine. Ensure the vehicle is level and adequately supported.
Remove the lower engine cover using 13mm socket/spanner and put to one side.
Position a spill tray or bowl below the auto box drain.
Locate the gearbox drain plug and, using the T40 Torx bit, start to slacken the integrated level plug, found in the centre of the drain plug.
Have immediately to hand a clear plastic bottle and funnel so as to collect all drained fluid. (You will need to measure the quantity removed to easily know the quantity to refill)
By hand, with the bottle and funnel ready in the other, remove the integrated level plug and catch all the fluid in the bottle. Expect anything from 600ml to 1.4 litre.
Once this has finished draining, you can carefully start to remove the main drain plug with the 17mm hex plug and spanner. NB: the drain plug has an internal tube about 50mm in length. As you unscrew the plug, the internal tube will obviously lower, causing the retained fluid to enter the tube and start to drain out before the plug is removed. Be ready to catch all the fluid! Expect a total of approx 2.1 litres. If you are lucky enough to catch it all, your spill tray will remain dry and you will be able to exactly quantify the top up needed.
When draining has finished, clean the drain plug and refit with the alloy gasket.
Using a clean funnel and new fluid, remove the filler plug and replenish until the fluid starts to drain from the open integrated level hole. Note the quantity replenished. (expect approx 2.1 litre)
Once flow has stopped, refit the integrated level plug with O ring.
Continue with replenishment of the remainder to equal the measured quantity originally removed.
Refit the filler plug.

The engine may now be started. Allow to idle & remain in P for at least 3 minutes. Then run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process at least twice.

Level Check
It is specified the fluid level check should be done with the gearbox fluid at 60 degrees C. This can be monitored if you are lucky enough to have sophisticated OBD kit. Otherwise, as in my case, wait until the gearbox casing feels quite warm, about 50 degrees C if you can monitor the casing. Alternatively take a relaxed 5 mile drive.

Once the desired temperature is reached, with the engine still running, again run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process at least twice.

Remove the T40 integrated level plug and allow any surplus fluid to drain. If there is no surplus fluid drain, top up 100ml at a time until surplus fluid does drain. Once the steady flow is reduced to a drip, refit the drain plug.

Refit the lower engine cover.

Should you wish to replace more of the fluid, as I did, repeat the above method. It is important the final level check is done with gearbox fluid at 60 degrees or as close as possible.

NB: I found the drained fluid to be totally black, although without any burnt smell. (The fresh fluid is cherry red!) Even with 9 fresh litres, mine only has a hint of red, so I may well be doing this again!

NB2: The above method was used after reference to various posts on this forum, especially those from our learned font of all knowledge, Alex Pescaru, plus searches of various Volvo forums and YouTube.

Bob

Here is the fill plug



Here are the fill plug and the drug plug with level insert. My fill plug has gone rusty since the 1st pic was taken

 Jules

Thanks Jules

You're welcome.

Make sure you can get the fill plug out before draining any ATF (had that problem with a Defender box once - drained the oil then rounded off the fill plug )

Also do you have the JLR manual ?
Download the pdf file for free from
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf Jules

Thanks again, just downloaded the manual.