Hello!
I am searching to buy a towbar to my Freelander 2.
Have already found several towbar kits, but sometimes they say that is nedd to remove the bumper, others there is no need, and some tell you to cut the bumper and others not.

If they are specific to Freelander 2, they all must have to fit, right?

I am in Portugal, so i might buy it from ebay.co.uk
Or do you know any other store that send to Portugal at a good price?

I have found, on the same seller, many differents towbar kits to the Freelander 2.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&am...p;_sacat=0

And a doubt: a single electric kit, is the plug with 7 pins?

Regards all

P F Jones have a good reputation would suggest Witter as the best option, not sure if they export though.
Yes the single socket is 7 pin for trailer not caravan. FL2 SD4 Metropolis Auto Santorini Black / ivory completely stock.

It's true that light travels faster than sound, some people look quite intelligent until you hear them speak.


Stop global winging.

MY 13 on has a different electrical kit to the earlier vehicles.

MidlandRover wrote:

P F Jones have a good reputation would suggest Witter as the best option, not sure if they export though.
Yes the single socket is 7 pin for trailer not caravan.

With regard to parking sensors / detachable tow ball...

The suggestion is that with your sensors active (no trailer / caravan) they will 'see' the tow ball. If the towball is removed then there is nothing to be be 'seen' by the sensors.

Don't know if it is really the case though. A lot of FL2s have fixed flange or swan neck bars and some of those cars must have parking aids???

We get no problems with the parking sensors seeing our after market fixed tow bar.

I also can confirm there are no problems with the parking sensors "seeing" the tow ball on the Freelander. This applies to fixed or detachable tow balls.

On your question of bumper removal/bumper cut, detachable tow bars that require a bumper cut will normally preserve the "departure angle" of the FL2 with the tow ball removed - useful if you go off road. Towbars that do not need a bumper cut will protrude below the bumper, reducing the departure angle when used off road. Removal/refit of the bumper is no great problem and can make the job easier. Also best if you need to cut the bumper.

All the tow bar brands will do the job. (They are all built to "E" standards) I would warn against the Thule detachable tow bar. Many users (including myself) have had problems with movement "clunks" with a trailer connected. Witter, Westfalia, Bosal, PF Jones will all be good. You make your choice based on features/price. I changed my tow bar to a Witter.

Good luck! 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic17426.html * GONE. GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* GONE.2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Rocket ship. 33mpg.
* Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

No idea about Bosal but Witter fit without bumper removal or cutting as does the one in your link. FL2 SD4 Metropolis Auto Santorini Black / ivory completely stock.

It's true that light travels faster than sound, some people look quite intelligent until you hear them speak.


Stop global winging.

As it was explained to me:

The parking sensors don't see the towbar but they do see whatever you are towing. With the correct electrical fit the car 'knows' when you have a trailer so disables the rear sensors.

On the subject of which towbars need a cut out and which don't - the PF Jones website shows which need the cut out and which don't (for the models they sell). From memory, Witter definitely don't need a cut out, Westfalia definitely do.
I've had numerous Witter towabars and never had any kind of a problem with them....I've had a couple of others (before the rules about specific tested designs) where there were problems.

I prefer removeable and flanged towbars as they are more flexible if you want to use things like bike carriers as well. If I didn't need that I'd probably get a removable gooseneck if I was only going to tow a trailer two or three times a year.

For the difference in cost I have twin sockets - I usually use a trailer or an older caravan but occasionally have to move a newer van with 13 pin connector. All are simple enough with a single adapter cable (these can be 2x7 to 13 or 13 to 2x7).