Anyone know if it's easy and quick to adjust the handbrake?

I parked yesterday on a slight incline and as I walked away the car started to roll down the hill. PANIC. Handbrake was on, but one click from the top (as I don't like to pull the handbrake on within an inch of its life). I need more buffer than this.

Jack up and take the rear wheels off. On the flange of the disc/drum you will see a plastic plug. Remove that then when the drum is in a certain position you will see an adjuster that you can 'flick' round with a flat bladed screwdriver. Tighten it until the disc locks then release it until it turns. Job done but be warned, these adjusters are normally seized so the disc/drum may need removing to get at them. Remove them, unsieze them, lubricate and refit if you have to.

Always best to leave the car in gear on a hill (in fact I always leave mine in gear), as handbrake cables have been known to snap and the change in temperature as the brakes cool can also cause them to release slightly.

Also I tend to turn my wheels to the kerbside so in the event of the car rolling away it will simply roll an inch or two before the tyre hits the kerb MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
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I just make sure i never park on a hill, my clutch control was always rubbish on hill starts (knew I should have gone for an auto!!)

Maybe OK where you are, but I'm in the Pennines where everything is a hill!

Fortunately my clutch control has always been good.

It may not be adjustment, just glazing of the pads.

Have a look at http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20057.html

BossBob wrote:

There is a parking/handbrake bedding in procedure in topix. Basically at 24mph apply the handbrake until you can feel a braking force then one extra click. Keep the brake on for 400m then release. You'll probably have to readjust the handbrake cable but the glaze on the brakes will be gone.

handbrakes are drums and can badly corrode an /or the linings come away from the shoe, for full safety a strip down is the best.
the parts are inexpensive from aftermarket suppliers but over £100 from LR At work
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IDL wrote:

It may not be adjustment, just glazing of the pads.

Have a look at http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20057.html

BossBob wrote:

There is a parking/handbrake bedding in procedure in topix. Basically at 24mph apply the handbrake until you can feel a braking force then one extra click. Keep the brake on for 400m then release. You'll probably have to readjust the handbrake cable but the glaze on the brakes will be gone.

There is a parking/handbrake bedding in procedure in topix. Basically at 24mph apply the handbrake until you can feel a braking force then one extra click. Keep the brake on for 400m then release. You'll probably have to readjust the handbrake cable but the glaze on the brakes will be gone.

Just out of interest, anyone know if this procedure is carried out say on the rolling road tests once new vehicles come off the production line or is this conveyed to owners of new vehicles to do on hand over at the dealers when they pick up the keys?

Only ever had one car from new, a company car, and this was delivered to my employers office with no handover guidelines. MY2010 TD4 HSE Santorini Black, 19" Alloys, Almond Leather, Lux Pack, Rear Spoiler, Adaptive Xenons

In my experience the handbrake on the Freelander is pretty useless even when properly adjusted and bedded in.

I was surprised when mine passed the MOT.

I previously had a Subaru Impreza which used the same 'drum in disc' setup and the handbrake in that was superb... Almost as effective as the footbrake.

Pete 2007 TD4 HSE Auto

Well, after fitting new discs, pads and shoes, I tried mine out on the road and found I could get mine to lock up at around 30mph with a good pull.

Locks up on the brake rollers at the MOT station too. Just wish I could remember to let the damn thing off sometines.

Great input guys, thanks.

Sounds just like the adjustment was on my old RRS.

Will make a full disc n pad change later in the spring, so I'll take the drum off then and check linings too. Will try to adjust for now.

Leaving in gear is also a good idea, I've started doing this now. Turning into curb is good too, pity I was parked on it this time (had to, long story).

Must admit, wifey and I loved our RRS from day one until we changed it. We drove our then young family (babies) from Sweden to Italy, lived there a year n drove back. There was never a doubt or worry about it. It was our little bit of home whilst away. The feeling of invincibillity and security was awesome.
Not feeling the love for the FL

Nothing specific, just too many little niggles and odd / random happenings. Can't see this being a long term lover!!

Steve D wrote:

Jack up and take the rear wheels off. On the flange of the disc/drum you will see a plastic plug. Remove that then when the drum is in a certain position you will see an adjuster that you can 'flick' round with a flat bladed screwdriver. Tighten it until the disc locks then release it until it turns. Job done but be warned, these adjusters are normally seized so the disc/drum may need removing to get at them. Remove them, unsieze them, lubricate and refit if you have to.

Spot on advice
It is the correct procedure; there is no easy fix. Just adjusting the nut under the rear coin tray is not the way. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Haynes manual says do the adjuster up tight then slacken off 8 clicks.