8 clicks? You'd have to open the sunroof when you pull that handbrake on.

Also says 8 clicks on the Topix manuals too. Set mine as manual states and no problems, but that might be because I haven't got a sun roof.

Click image to enlarge

What it says is back the adjuster off eight clicks that equates to a lot less than eight clicks at the lever!

Is there a brake adjuster on both back wheel hubs or just on one side?

Both sides through a hole in the front of the disc.

Cheers, did it a hundred years ago on my RRS, just completely forgot how it was. That one had an electric handbrake and I remember the warnings of triggering it with the drum removed (petwang!!).

Not planning on changing the linings this time, just taking up the slack a little.

May I add some notes which may benefit somebody in the future.
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The rear brake assemblies design is not limited to the Freelander 2, these parts are made by specialist sub suppliers and the design goes back many decades with a handbrake inside the disc. Ive been active in servicing these brake systems also for decades and can therefore speak with experience that may help others. Most major car manufacturers have or do use the same design on many vehicles.
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These brakes are as always made to a competitive price to the car manufacturers, the Disc is cast iron / steel (not sure which) and is a problem because it rusts, I guess stainless materials are out of question due to cost. The adjuster siezes due to lack of grease; same applies to the link pivot which seizes up.
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For those with Automatics the handbrake is almost never used for handbrake starts so as it is only ever applied as a parking brake it never gets much 'used' so it doesn't wear; what does happen is that the handbrake inner drum attracts damp as a capilliary action and rust sets in to the drum surface. As steel chemically turns to the new compound we call rust it has a greater volume and its also effectively harder than steel. further use of the handbrake just glazes the rust crud and this shows up as a car which wont hold on the handbrake on an incline because there is not enough friction.
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For those with a manual gearbox it will be used for hill starts so the drum gets abraded each time and the rust doesn't get the same chance to start and grow. The handbrake is effective for a much longer period of years however the lining will show wear and adjustment is needed more frequent.
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For those with ineffective handbrake problems the 'repair' depends upon how big your pocket is and how much time you have spare. The quickest but 'expensive' way is to buy new discs, new pads, new shoes, new adjusters and new actuator link, (don't forget to strip the adjuster and copiously grease it AND work grease into the link at its pivot).
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For those with enthusiasm and time; strip all; polish the rust from the handrake drum until shiny steel surfaces, (I use an abrasive flapwheel in the drill), strip clean and grease the adjuster, remove the link, wirebrush thoroughly and work it by hand hinging it until its action is floppy then work grease into the pivot pin. Reassemble all. My Freelie is now on 60k miles and I estimate the handbrake parts will last another 80k without replacement - so ongoing parts cost is negligible, however allow one hour per side each year!
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Handbrake adjustment on its own is a near waste of time unless all parts are new or you've done the yearly strip down, this applies more to the Auto owners.
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Best advice for Auto owners is to periodically pull the handbrake on at slow speed to scrub the rust off.
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Hope this helps, kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Awesome contribution.

Sounds very plausable, so I'll wait until the spring and change the discs and all associated.

Great top up of forum knowledge bank. Well done.

The point to make is 'you pays your money'; you takes your choice'
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Nobody is right and nobody is wrong.
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My rear brakes will only incurr new pads at circa £20 per 36k miles because I know what I'm doing.
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I can easily see the benefit in buying all new parts as DIY as its a quick easy job.
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What makes me grin is garages who make easy pickings. To change all the brake parts every two years is to my mind expensive and technically not necessary.
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It's good that we all contribute to the forum as it gives members the information to enable a personal choice.
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Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

After reading the excellent advice regarding handbrake.discs /shoes i felt encouraged to have a go to replace my discs pads shoes.( 80,000 miles Auto)
Apart from some slight frustration when fitting the shoes (those darned sring clips) all went well and I am very surprised and pleased at the vast improvement in the handbrake.
Thanks everyone