….but not always, it’s intermittent! Some days I’ll drive it and it’s fine and others is a bag of nails…then during the drive it will stop smoking and get its power back. I had the plastic intercooler pipe replaced a couple of years ago when it split, this gave a similar fault description when it split but the black smoke and low power where always present until I had it fixed. I can’t find any splits as of today.

Also have a terrible engine oil leak, looks to be from the bell housing. Rear crank seal?

i had a similar problem a couple of years back i replaced the MAF sensor and it was fine after that . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

I get down on my knees and pray to the Great Landrover god that my rear crank seal lasts as long as the car

Having recently been through turbo-related issues, with a couple of bouts of black smoke and no power, I wonder if the module that controls the variable veins in the turbo is playing up. In my case it was the actuator arm completely separated from the module, but if the module was mal-functioning (or the veins sticking?) then you might get similar symptoms.

My understanding, though is that the module takes info from a number of other sensors, so a fault in any one of these can cause the same symptoms. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel