MT FL 2 is a 2008 car going in for a service in a couple of weeks.
I decided to check out the brakes before it went.
Id rather do them myself than pay over the odds at a dealer.
On removing the front offside caliper I found the pads were about 50% worn but then I noticed that the pads were starting to delaminate away from the backing plate by about 50%.
The near side wasnt as bad but I decided to check the rear pads while I was at it.
All four of the rear pads were completely seperated from thier backing plates. All were about 50% worn but I think they wouldnt have lasted much longer before they cracked or broke up and fell out of the calipers.
The pads are 'GALFER' branded and I think they must be OE as the car has only done 32,000 miles.
Surely isnt normal. Ive never had a set of pads do this.

Ive replaced all the pads (£90) but now the brake pedal is spongy and can be pressed down to the floor with some minimal restistance.
The cars stops OK and I know the new pads need time to bed in and take the shape of the discs.
Can someone advise me ? Is it rare for the pads to delaminate?
Why is the brake pedal still going down ?

Wow!...never come across all the pads delaminating. Galfer are a decent make of pad so it is not down to dodgy parts. From a distance I would say that for whatever reason, your brakes have led a very hard life which has left them in this state. I would say that the first thing you need to do is change the brake fluid and bleed the system properly. If the pedal still goes to the floor I would check the pads for fitting. What state were the discs in? If they were badly worn the pads will have a hard time bedding in and reality the discs should have been changed too if the braking system has been given the hard time as I suspect.
The next port of call would be the master cylinder. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Last edited by JST on 30th Jan 2012 3:53 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Sounds like the pads have been cooked at some time in their life?

I have not heard this one for a while but it used to happen on the early models, try a search, i have found this one.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic3542.html?

Mona Geeza wrote:

Sounds like the pads have been cooked at some time in their life?

thanks for the replys gents.
The other thread was very interesting and sounds like the same problem as mine.
The car was bought as an 11 month old demonstrator from Matford LR. I had the ball hitch fitted but it has never been in the sea (only pulled the boat twice with it as the clutch was slipping and had to be done under warranty - but thats another story !!!!) the discs are in excellent condition, there is no corrosion that would suggest its been in the sea / water so I think the fault is with the disc / pad.
Ive actually had this issue with Brembo brake pads on a motorbike before and have heard of others.
If the vehicle is left standing and is washed or the pads have got wet, sometimes, over a period of time the pads actually corroded onto the disc and stick to it. When it did this on my motorcycle i couldnt move the bike and had to strip the assemble down to release the pads.
Obviously the car has a lot more power and when the car moves the pads that are 'welded' onto the discs move forward with the disc rather than stay stuck to the backing plate and break off.
I had a major arguement with KTM about this and they basically told me the same advice as LR = dry the discs after use - yeah like a motorbike cant be used in the wet and your LR needs to be dried off after a run across a field ! Im sure every farmer in the country doesnt dry his discs every evening after bringing the cows in !
I told KTM them to shove thier bike up thier A##e.
I spoke to LR Customers services today and they told me "surprise surprise" that it wasnt a warranty item - Im not bothered about that but i do see it as a safety issue, especially if the pads get a point where they suddenly crumble to dust in the caliper and leave no way of braking. I will try and post some photos.

Last edited by posiden on 30th Jan 2012 7:53 pm. Edited 1 time in total

factory fitment rear pads de-laminate quite frequently, mine did and many others on here have reported same. so maybe fronts are prone to it too? At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

If your brakes are spongy and travel to the floor then I think you may of introduced air into the system, I would bleed the brakes again in the correct order.
Also check for any leaks on your servo assited vacum pipes just incase you have a leak and your losing presure.
Make sure all bleed nipples are tight and not loose.

try this before you bleed the brakes go to the flexi hoses and clamp off the hose on th n/s first try the brake pedal if still going to the floor releice the clamp and clamp the oppersit side if the brake pedal goes hard the this is the side that has got air in it bleed that side all should be ok remember if you are replacing all the fluid start bleeding from the furthist away first from the master cylender ie n/s/r then o/s/r then n/s/f then o/s /f and use the good quality fluid dot 4 or above  rainy-city
xs

Both my rear pads delaminated, one part just fell on the floor!!

If your brakes are spongy then it is possible that some air has entered the caliper while pushing the piston back to allow the new pads in. A full system bleed would be my first suggestion. Also, are you certain that the calipers are not seized? Cheers,
Raz
FL1 TD4 GS Auto 2001 Silver
FL2 TD4 Auto 2007 Black
FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2012 Fuji White

I cant really see why any air should have gotten into the brake system.
The pistons are all single acting pistons so pushing them back into the caliper doesnt force the other side out.
There was absolutley no leakage of fluid anywhere, I did one brake at a time and fully assembled it before moving onto the next.
I have spoken to a guy at Team Valley LR and he said there is a pressure bypass system that allows the pedal to keep moving when the brake is pressed fully on!
Im not sure if this is correct but the brakes are working normally and are starting to bed in and 'bite' a bit better so maybe he is right ????

I would still change the brake fluid as it is due at your mileage anyway. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

My car is in for service today and Roger Young LR say rear brake pads are cracked and need replacing at a cost of £150+ (inc vat). Has anybody experienced this, and is it a reasonable price to pay? The car has only done 28,800 miles over it's six year life. And no unusual noises or problems heard or felt. Brakes work fine. Was GS TD4 Auto, Privacy, Santorini with Tundra & Alpaca, Cold Climate Pack. Traded for Discovery Sport HSE Auto.

Just to add: Now checked last year's service invoice and ALL pads were only 10% worn from new in March 2008. Am I being ripped off? Was GS TD4 Auto, Privacy, Santorini with Tundra & Alpaca, Cold Climate Pack. Traded for Discovery Sport HSE Auto.