Has anyone changed a rear wiper motor on a F2 and is it a straight forward job? Assuming it is the wiper motor is there any way of finding out if anything else has failed?

Should be pretty straight forward, haven't done it but have gained access to easily when changing the Tailgate Latch.
This thread may help and if it has seized it can over heat and burst into flames if left switched on.
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic5685.html

and it's now getting to the time where you should switch your wipers from auto to manual, now't worse if they are frozen to the screen but want to wipe

Good point Dave, pity the wipers can be left on Auto, it should iuse the same type of switching that the fog lights use, so they need to be turned to Auto when you first start up, the fog lights cancel when you turn the lights off and need to be turned on again.

I had to strip mine down recently, due to a poor rear screen seal the motor had become waterlogged......simple enough, even for me!

Remove two screws securing the tailgate panel giving easy access to the motor. Remove and replace completely or alternatively strip the assembly down, clean, re-grease and re-fit.

From memory a new motor from my dealer was about £100?

Hi guys, This is my first post although I have been a lurker for some time

I recently bought a 2007 GS which has a rear wiper problem - fuse is ok but not a hint of movement.
I have yet to take the rear door trim off to have a peek but the rear wiper motor is around £130 plus vat.
Is it possible to refurb these motors?

I don't know whether they can be refurbished, but before you write it off check out the relay in the rear fusebox, R137 I believe.

Try a breakers yard like Equicar

Thanks for the replies

I decided to have a closer look at the wiper motor assembly and was surprised to find the gearbox full of rust! It appears that the washer fluid is soaking in through the shaft seal and messing things up, eventually seizing up completely - a simple oil seal would sort it out at the design stage. There is no evidence of a burnout so after freeing up the mechanism I tried to poke 12V into the motor but its not playing nicely and refused to move. It looks like a new one is required. I will try a breaker first but I think a second hand one might suffer from the same fault - I might have to dig a bit deeper in my wallet than I first thought

Razman, as you have stated if you buy a used one, the chances are it will already have the beginnings of this problem, the breaker will look up the price of a new one and want about £80 if not more for one and three months time you have the same problem again and you will wish you had bought a new one, they are in the region of £140 new, buy new and you have 12 months warranty to fall back on.

I was thinking along the same lines, although if I did find a cheap second hand one I would be tempted to buy it but strip and re-grease it before reinstalling - it would probably last another few years that way.

Try to find the manufacturers part no on the motor if you can then try your Ford main dealer.
L/R parts are notoriuosly expensive even the parts are used on other VM models. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Looks same as Fiesta Mk 6/7 - has anyone tried to swap ?

They have a Valeo part number which isn't recognised by Google - absolutely zilch

Maybe not. Still try your Ford dealer. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.