Knackered throttle body.

All I did was press "unlock" on the key fob...

Pp

That brings back memories from tuther wk had mine was doing similar had new fitted at dealers lol

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread - but I thought I'd add some of my own notes.

Had a grinding noise for a few seconds after the engine stopped which was traced to the throttle body. FL2 09 plate diesel with only 60K on the clock, so a little surprised it had failed so soon. Could also just hear it when the engine was running once I knew what I was listening for. No actual problems when driving, or ECU codes.

Got a replacement from EuroCarParts for £90, made by Pierburg. Appears to be identical to the original LR part in every way, even down to the font used to laser etch the batch number onto the side of the throttle body.

Someone previously asked if you need a new gasket. The Pierburg body, and I suspect most others, come with a new rubber seal already in place. It doesn't fall out, so nothing to worry about there.

Anyway, it's an easy replacement to do, so here's my step by step guide!

1: Loosen the air filter cover (4 x T15 Torx screws), and disconnect the MAF sensor cable to allow the cover to move aside a little.

2: Remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine (2 x 5/16 imperial bolts on my vehicle?!), and the really fiddly nut at the back right hand corner.

3: Pop the cover upwards and out of the engine bay. Move the air filter cover and inlet hose aside if required.

4: The throttle body is held in place by three T30 Torx screws. You only need to remove the front one. Loosen the rear two, and the body can be guided back towards the engine to slide it out of its location. A nice bit of helpful design there! A long T30 Torx driver will be really helpful.

5: Disconnect the bottom hose clip using a 7mm box driver or socket. The clip wont drop down the hose, as its fixed in place by a retainer. Nice !

6: Now the fiddly bit! Disconnect the air sensor plug on the side of the body, and the other cable that connects to the throttle body motor. The plugs do come out by pushing on the tabs to release the connector. You will also need to pull the cable retainer out of the body. It's pretty darn stubborn, and will need some gentle persuasion with a small flat bladed screwdriver.

7: Move the throttle body out of the engine bay.

8: Remove the sensor (T30 Torx again), and give it a GENTLE clean with some isopropyl alcohol and a few cotton buds. It will almost certainly be caked in oil.

9: Re-fit the sensor to the new throttle body.

10: Move the two rear T30 Torx screws from the old body to the same holes in the new body.

11: Check your new throttle body has a rubber gasket on the top of it - just in case there are some supplied without - which is unlikely.

12: Move the throttle body back into the engine bay, and close to where it meets the engine.

13: Re-connect both cables (sensor and motor) and the cable retainer clip which pushes into the new body. The reason for this is purely down to access for the sensor plug. There is a fairly immovable wiring loom pressing right against it, and unless you have fingers of steel, that can bend at impossible angles, you will struggle.

14: Guide the body into place, using the two screws as a location aid.

15: Once in place, you can fit the front T30 Torx screw.

16: Push the air hose onto the body, and tighten up the 7mm hose clip.

17: Finally, tighten up the three T30 Torx screws.

At this point, check all electrical plugs are fully pushed into their respective sockets, refit the engine cover, and air filter cover, MAF sensor plug etc.

That's it. With a long T30 driver, I think it took about an hour approx, including a few minutes cleaning up the sensor.

When I get a few minutes, I'll dismantle the old throttle body, just to see if its the same stripped gear problem causing the noise.

Thank you very much for the how-to guide!
Would have been perfect with a few pictures...

Would have been even better if you had written it BEFORE I replaced mine!

alex_pescaru wrote:

Thank you very much for the how-to guide!
Would have been perfect with a few pictures...

Hi

07 freel2 drives well but on shutdown there is this strange noise - akin to a coffee grinder which goes for at least a minute...

Anyone know if this is something that needs urgent attention or what it might be?

Many thanks
Stef

Search on here for 'Throttle body', countless threads describing your ailment.

Like this?

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic24892.html

This post has been edited by the site administration team - multiple threads merged

Same thing happened to me on Tuesday, completely out of the blue. (Although on reflection, the engine has been running on a little recently.) I got the hideous coffee grinder noise after shutting down the engine. I immediately booked it in to the main dealer so it could be sorted under extended warranty. All done today - new throttle body, and all running beautifully, no charge. (2010 Freelander 2 2.2 GS Td4_e 77K miles; eco system hasn't worked for ages, so probably not a factor in the failure. Main dealer advised not bothering with it as it depends on so many factors, including condition of battery. I never really got used to it, and preferred it not to be on anyway, a bit like cruise control!).

The throttle body on my 2010 failed in the closed position so the car wouldn't start. Ended up being a pick up and take to the garage. No warning or funny noises, drive onto the drive then no start.

Freelanders, don't you just love em? MY2010 XS Fuji White dog carrier

I solved the problem of body throttle pole completely eliminating, removing the internal butterfly and unplugging the connector, these two years the 'car is fine with no problems ............

How does it shut down, I thought the flap remove oxygen to the engine when you turn it off? Are you talking about swirl flaps on the inlet manifold/EGR?

Hello Richp I'm just talking about the throttle body, if I disconnect the connector and try to turn off the engine, the engine stops smoothly even with the throttle body off ..............